Barrel Trimmer...........

[RogerGarrett]

I know it's been discussed before, and I've gone back and read the different discussions - but I'm looking for some recommendations.

I'm going to finally break down and purchase a barrel trimmer - or multiple cutter heads and pilot shafts. I have many, many pen kits and bushings, mandrels - meaning I (like everyone) makes a large assortment of pens. The problem is that you have to purchase a different pilot shaft for each style (unless the tube is the same from style to style) and the recommended cutterhead size is one that is no larger than your blank.

I notice that there is an apprentice barrel trimming kit offered by CSUSA that includes several different pilot shafts and a 3/4 cutter head. Is this a good one to begin with and gradually add other pilot shafts and a 1/2 cutter head, or is the quality not as good and the sizes incompatible with the individual pieces offered?

I also read about the carbide bit cutter head (Was that you JimGo?) and wondered if there is any more information about pros and cons.

Which set to purchase?

Advice folks - it's time to bite the bullet and spend some $ on a consistent way to trim up the blanks

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[Dario]

Cannot help you on which brand to get but if you can...buy the bare minimum (head cutter and 7mm shaft only) then make your own "shims" by turning tubed pieces to fit in the bigger tubes.

There is work up front but it actually help reduce time later because you won't be switching shafts anymore.

One drawback...you need to manually clean inside the tube (I always do anyways) before trimming.

JMHO.

 

[its_virgil]

I agree with Dario....I would suggest to get the large head barrel trimmer and a shaft for 7mm pens. The shims work good and actually some shims work on different kit tubes. I use maple and write on the shim for which kit it is used. But, most of my tube squaring is done on a disk sander with a squaring jig. Still have to use the shim tubes but the disk sander works very well for me. Also, I don't think I am in the majority on this. I sense that most penturners prefer the pen mills/end trimmers. The key to good fits is the end of the blanks must be squared to the tube, not the sides of the blank....unless you can cut blanks and drill them much more precisely than I.[][]

Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by Dario
<br />Cannot help you on which brand to get but if you can...buy the bare minimum (head cutter and 7mm shaft only) then make your own "shims" by turning tubed pieces to fit in the bigger tubes.

There is work up front but it actually help reduce time later because you won't be switching shafts anymore.

One drawback...you need to manually clean inside the tube (I always do anyways) before trimming.

JMHO.

 

[johncrane]

I agree with Dario 100% just make them a good fit so they dont spin in the pen blanks tube. if there lose and you have a lot of trimming to do you can cut into the tube and that will make your pen parts loose I have shims for every kit you only need 7mm 1/2 and 3/4 cutter head.

 

[Chris Hare]

If you plan on doing alot of one style you might want to get the shaft for that size. I do alot of cigars and barons so I have shaft for the cigars/lower barons and a corian sleve for the baron uppers. I also do 10-20 pens at a time. I trim all of the blanks at once so I only have to swap the shaft once. or get a second head. Just keep them both sharp or you will end up swaping heads midway through. [B)]

 

[its_virgil]

I meant to mention previously, I have become a fan of base plate wax to plug one end of the tube to keep out the glue. Seems that is much more efficient than cleaning out glue. Other stuff works just as well.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by Dario
<br />One drawback...you need to manually clean inside the tube (I always do anyways) before trimming.

 

[Pipes]

A decent disc sander with a level I guess bed is what you call it is all you need... and you IMHO will NEVER NEED a trimmer ever again I have used my trimmer on 3 kits after that I leveled the bed on my disc sander and have used it now for over a 100 pens without 1 single problem ! I know Iam new to this but I just have not once I l tried a disc sander ever seen the remote need for a barrel trimmer of anykind !! and by the time you buy everthing you need for a trimmer you can about buy a decent small belt sander for a little more at HF or sears mine is a older small Craftsman 5 inch disc 30 inch belt 1/2 HP and works great ! I just looked they make it thou it looks diffrent now at aboiut a 100 bucks and it can be used for so much more than just squareing up a pen blank !!

Just my 2 cents for what it was worth !! Rudy Vey a member here got me on to the disc sander thing and I thank him very much !![]






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[wdcav1952]

Pipes,

Lots of people like the disc sander, different strokes for different folks.

The important thing with a disc sander is that the sander must be perpindicular to the tube, not the end of the blank. If you always drill perfectly dead center in a blank where all sides are at a perfect 90 degrees to each other, a well adjusted disc sander is all you need. However, if the sides of the blank are not parallel, or if your drill bit wandered a bit on its journey through the blank, just using a disc sander will leave a discrepancy when assembling the pen. It is a small error, but one that is easy to prevent.

FWIW,

 

[Pipes]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Pipes,

Lots of people like the disc sander, different strokes for different folks.

The important thing with a disc sander is that the sander must be perpindicular to the tube, not the end of the blank. If you always drill perfectly dead center in a blank where all sides are at a perfect 90 degrees to each other, a well adjusted disc sander is all you need. However, if the sides of the blank are not parallel, or if your drill bit wandered a bit on its journey through the blank, just using a disc sander will leave a discrepancy when assembling the pen. It is a small error, but one that is easy to prevent.

FWIW,

I doubt I have ever drilled stright and never ever have had 1 single problem IMHO nothing more for what its worth ... Folks way over think this its just to simple IMHO ! I can even tell when I touch the brass now the SOUND of the sander changes a bit and you just quit sanding right then !






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[woodwish]

I have always been a loyal barrel trimmer kind of guy, plus I don't actually have a real disk sander. But to be honest it seems I have had way more trouble than it's worth with the barrel trimmer, I've ruined more than one blank due to the tube sticking to the trimmer and not staying in the blank. I know this is a glue problem and not a trimmer problem but it has happened with epoxy that didn't cure well enough and trying to trim CA'ed tubes before they were really set I guess.

I do have a vertical belt sander that I think I am going to use to see if I like it better on a few I glued up today, and seems like it should be faster also. I worry that if the tube is not in perfectly straight the ends may be off some, but how bad can it be?

 

[wood-of-1kind]

I purchased two barrel trimmers (HSS and fairly cheap). Replace the cutting tips with CARBIDE and now it makes a world of difference. The 'cheapies' are now premium grade and cut the blanks like going through butter. I came up with this alternative since our tool guys here are too busy to offer to us starving members[]

-Peter-[]

 

[RogerGarrett]

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Peter - where did you get your carbide cutting tips? And - which barrel trimmers did you purchase - from where?

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[wdcav1952]

Originally posted by Pipes
<br />

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Pipes,

Lots of people like the disc sander, different strokes for different folks.

The important thing with a disc sander is that the sander must be perpindicular to the tube, not the end of the blank. If you always drill perfectly dead center in a blank where all sides are at a perfect 90 degrees to each other, a well adjusted disc sander is all you need. However, if the sides of the blank are not parallel, or if your drill bit wandered a bit on its journey through the blank, just using a disc sander will leave a discrepancy when assembling the pen. It is a small error, but one that is easy to prevent.

FWIW,

I doubt I have ever drilled stright and never ever have had 1 single problem IMHO nothing more for what its worth ... Folks way over think this its just to simple IMHO ! I can even tell when I touch the brass now the SOUND of the sander changes a bit and you just quit sanding right then !






http://affordablepipes.com/

Pipes,

If you are happy, I am happy for you, but I don't think you paid any attention to what I said. The end of the blank has to be perpendicular to the end of the tube for the kit to fit together without a gap. If this doesn't bother you, more power to you, but it is important for people trying to learn the craft to learn where easy to avoid mistakes are lurking.

 

[wood-of-1kind]

Originally posted by RogerGarrett
<br />Thanks for the suggestions guys. Peter - where did you get your carbide cutting tips? And - which barrel trimmers did you purchase - from where?
Best,
Roger Garrett

The carbide cutting tips were done by a toolmaker in Toronto. As for the trimmers, one was purchased from Lee Valley Tools and the other from Woodchuckers here in Toronto. It is a very cost effective way of getting a good tool(s) at a reasonable price.
-Peter-

 

[Pipes]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />

Originally posted by Pipes
<br />

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />Pipes,

Lots of people like the disc sander, different strokes for different folks.

The important thing with a disc sander is that the sander must be perpindicular to the tube, not the end of the blank. If you always drill perfectly dead center in a blank where all sides are at a perfect 90 degrees to each other, a well adjusted disc sander is all you need. However, if the sides of the blank are not parallel, or if your drill bit wandered a bit on its journey through the blank, just using a disc sander will leave a discrepancy when assembling the pen. It is a small error, but one that is easy to prevent.

FWIW,

I doubt I have ever drilled stright and never ever have had 1 single problem IMHO nothing more for what its worth ... Folks way over think this its just to simple IMHO ! I can even tell when I touch the brass now the SOUND of the sander changes a bit and you just quit sanding right then !






http://affordablepipes.com/

Pipes,

If you are happy, I am happy for you, but I don't think you paid any attention to what I said. The end of the blank has to be perpendicular to the end of the tube for the kit to fit together without a gap. If this doesn't bother you, more power to you, but it is important for people trying to learn the craft to learn where easy to avoid mistakes are lurking.

I think YOU mised what I meant in my post !! All my parts always fir flush NO GAPS ! If thats what you mean !! I don't know how they could fit any better than dead flush ??? Anyone learnig I think that what they need there pens to fit perfect NO GAPS ! I would think ??? Maybe I missed somthing or were both saying the same thing in 2 diffrent ways []





http://affordablepipes.com/

 

[Pipes]

Someone reminded me in PM that I may be new to pen turrning ! BUT I know quite a bit about what Iam doing ! I think the disc sander is easy for me ! BUT I forget not everyone can handle it ! So IMHO the tube jig or better yet if your new I to recomend the a pen mill makes it a lot easier if your new to pens in genral ! I assumed to much I think sorry bout that guys [:I]

The pen mill is the way to go and very very good advice !






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