Bandsaw...?

[RGVPens]

I'm thinking about a bandsaw. I've been cutting blanks with my scroll saw up to now as it's handy, about 4' from the lathe. Wood blanks are no problem, but...resin blanks are all over the map. Some cut easy and the two halves come apart...but some are almost impossable to cut/seperate. They weld behind the blade, slap the table, and sometimes my finger, break blades, etc.

What is the best, most common, tool to cut all kinds of resin blanks the easiest?
I'm thinking a simple jig with a movable stop would work a lot better than the way I'm doing it now!
I have a big Delta table saw, 36-725T2, and a DeWalt 12" sliding compound miter saw. Both seem like WAY overkill for pen blanks.

I don't want the cheapest POS...but don't really want to spend more than $1,000 at this time. It would most likely be used for pens, although I want to try stoppers and maybe small to medium bowls at some time. Might use it for some thinks to do with my scroll saw art. Resaw 4" - 8" capable would be a plus for book matched jewelry box tops.

 

[SabertoothBunny]

Well, that honestly depends upon what you want for size of a bandsaw: 10", 14", 20" etc etc etc

If we are just talking about small blanks like pens, bottles stopper, wands, and other such small projects the WEN 3962T 10" (1/2HP I think) bandsaw is the best bang for the buck in that size segment. It is the one I got after extensive research in this category. The 10" WEN ranks top 3-5 in most legitimate and honest reviews that don't fixate on brand preference. It comes with a stand and light and can takes a 72" blade up to a 1/2" wide. Price ranges around $300-350 for this bad boy and it is worth every single penny, it outperforms most name bands in the 10" category. The newer version may be the WEN BA3962 as that is the only I can find available and it is identical.

When you get into the 14" bandsaw size, the worthwhile ones are more than $1,000. With the research I have done in this category, I am saving pennies to get a Rikon 10-326 14" bandsaw as it is a solid machine with years of great reviews. Cast iron table, 1.75HP, up to 3/4" blade, good fence, 13" resaw, etc. That would be extreme overkill for what you mentioned but I do bowls and larger spindle work as well. Other solid bandsaws in the 14" include the Jet and Laguna models.

I wouldn't even glance at anything above 14" in the bandsaw world, those prices are painful to look at as they shoot into the $2,000+ range very quickly. Plus they truly would be actual overkill.

Each size category changes what brands/models are "best" as the motors and features change. For the 10" category I honestly recommend the WEN. While it is made in China this saw truly does rank higher than most and actually does outperform compared to them. For your needs it will do far more than required but I do recommend getting the 1/2" blade, I usually get the Timberwolf blades off of Amazon for it. The thicker blade is just more stable which allows cleaner cuts.

 

[MRDucks2]

I am quite please with my Rikon 14" bandsaw.

 

[Painfullyslow]

When you say cutting resin blanks, do you mean simply cutting them to length for the tube or are you doing any segmenting?

It has been my experience that if you are just cutting blanks to length, any old bandsaw with a sled will get it done quickly and easily. If you are going down the segmenting path then accuracy really does matter, and this is where you will want to ensure that whatever machine you get cuts true.

I just picked up a 10" tabletop from my local facebook marketplace for $50 that does the trick, and I keep my eyes open for a 14" stand alone. When something like that comes my way, I will grab it.

If you have the $ then the Rikon 14" gets rave reviews, and that is what I am looking for but to be honest that Wen machine linked above doesnt look half bad, although I have no experience with it.

 

[Curly]

Crosscutting blanks? Table saw.

 

[KenB259]

This subject just came up a very short while ago. I made the point in the previous thread that tool prices have sky rocketed. Two years ago I bought a Jet 14 in bandsaw, I love it, but that same saw is now pushing 2 grand. Now you can buy a smaller benchtop bandsaw, but will you be happy in two years when that 2 thousand dollar bandsaw is then selling for three grand? I tend to adhere to the adage" buy once, cry once"

 

[jttheclockman]

My take on it is you already have a tablesaw. Very easy to cut anything on a tablesaw. Get a thin 1/16" blade so you do not lose much material and have at it. Make a nice safe sled and accuracy is there as well as ease. Not a big fan of tabletop bandsaws. But if you are going into a floor saw then big$$$ and you need the room. Just my thoughts.

 

[Kenny Durrant]

One other thing to keep in mind is the tpi on the blade. If your just sizing wood or resawing you'll want an aggressive blade. One that cuts and pulls it through to keep from binding and burning up the blade. For plastics you'll want a smooth cutting blade so it doesn't grab the blank and break and throw pieces everywhere.

 

[farmer]

I have a 14 in Ridgid band saw with a craig fence , now my band saw is called a resaw.
I use it to cut inlay woods

 

[RGVPens]

What is the opinion of other brands like Grizzly, Shop Fox, Jet, Delta, etc?

 

[KMCloonan]

I have owned several bandsaws, and none of them really did well for me, for a variety of reasons. I had an older Powermatic 14", but it was so big and heavy, it took up too much space in my small shop (even when I had it on wheels.).

Next, I had a Grizzly 14", which was much smaller than the Powermatic, but it just felt cheap. The doors rattled when it ran. I have numerous other Grizzly tools (table saw, drill press, sander, Air cleaner, etc), so I like the Grizzly brand, but the saw just bugged me. Even though it was smaller than the Powermatic, it still seemed too big. I did not want to go to a 10" Benchtop bandsaw, because I wanted the option to work with larger stock.

I finally got my "forever" bandsaw - a gently used 12" Craftsman bandsaw. I put new tires on it, and a new blade, and it is excellent. It is large enough for anything I have needed (so far), but easily rolls out of the way when I am not using it.


I was never crazy about the "Square" Craftsman bandsaws, so when I saw this more traditional "C" shape saw, and the condition it was in, I snatched it up. It was only $200, and I have had it for about 5 years now, and use it almost every day.

I guess my point (I do have to get to the point, right?) is don't disregard a good used tool. Check craigslist, Facebook, maybe even eBay.

oh, and I'm pretty sure Shop Fox is a Grizzly brand.

 

[Gary Beasley]

If you want to use your scrollsaw on plastic turn your motor speed down to its slowest. You will be surprised how fast it cuts even then. This reduces the friction that remelts the plastic. A 'polar' blade is also recommended, all the teeth pointing the same direction.

 

[rherrell]

I've had my Grizzly G0555 for 17 years and couldn't be happier with it. I've done several mods to it to make it better but it was pretty good right out of the box.

14" 1 HP Bandsaw

<h1>G0555 14" 1 HP Bandsaw</h1> <h2>An award-winning bandsaw for home and small shops.</h2> <p>The G0555 Classic 14" Bandsaw was awarded the Best Industrial-Grade Band Saw by <em>Tool Digest</em> and Best Value by <em>WOOD Magazine</em>.</p> <p>Backed by a 1 HP motor and a capacity of 14", it...

www.grizzly.com

 

[greenacres2]

I used to cut pen blanks to length on a 14" band saw, steel shined Laguna. Still walk out to the shop to do that on most days. Added an old school miter box & back saw several years ago, kept sharp it's faster to just use that in the basement than to walk to the garage…even with acrylics. Built a sled that sets a stop using the brass tube, nice & easy & peaceful.
JT's mention of table saw with 1/16" kerf blade is good too. I have a 7 1/4" crosscut blade that I keep at the table saw jut for that. Lose some depth of cut compared to 10" blade, but can still get over an inch deep.
Earl

 

[farmer]

A little ban saw story.
In the 70's I worked in a molding mill where we made wood molding for houses.
one of my jobs was to tail off this machine .
This resaw was 12 feet or more tall and had two ban saw blades that 40 foot around or more.
one day the operate got some wet wood and over heated the blades and one blade broke and came flying out of the machine .
The blade shredded everything it touched , cut through the thin steel walls and the roof of the mill building.
Exploded the cart of wood I was hiding behind.
No one was hurt, not really that big of deal, but I will never forget hiding behind that cart with the blade from hell blowing the wood apart right above .

 

[RGVPens]

If you want to use your scrollsaw on plastic turn your motor speed down to its slowest. You will be surprised how fast it cuts even then. This reduces the friction that remelts the plastic. A 'polar' blade is also recommended, all the teeth pointing the same direction.

I do turn it all the way down, verses cranked to the max when I'm doing puzzle animals for the shows...lol. And I use a Pegas super skip blade.

 

[RGVPens]

I've had my Grizzly G0555 for 17 years and couldn't be happier with it. I've done several mods to it to make it better but it was pretty good right out of the box.

14" 1 HP Bandsaw

<h1>G0555 14" 1 HP Bandsaw</h1> <h2>An award-winning bandsaw for home and small shops.</h2> <p>The G0555 Classic 14" Bandsaw was awarded the Best Industrial-Grade Band Saw by <em>Tool Digest</em> and Best Value by <em>WOOD Magazine</em>.</p> <p>Backed by a 1 HP motor and a capacity of 14", it...

www.grizzly.com

I like the specs of that Rick. A little more than I wanted to spend...but not much. It would give my capacity to do other wood working stuff also. I'll look closer at that one. Also need to talk to you about a tool rest

 

[RGVPens]

I have owned several bandsaws, and none of them really did well for me, for a variety of reasons. I had an older Powermatic 14", but it was so big and heavy, it took up too much space in my small shop (even when I had it on wheels.).

Next, I had a Grizzly 14", which was much smaller than the Powermatic, but it just felt cheap. The doors rattled when it ran. I have numerous other Grizzly tools (table saw, drill press, sander, Air cleaner, etc), so I like the Grizzly brand, but the saw just bugged me. Even though it was smaller than the Powermatic, it still seemed too big. I did not want to go to a 10" Benchtop bandsaw, because I wanted the option to work with larger stock.

I finally got my "forever" bandsaw - a gently used 12" Craftsman bandsaw. I put new tires on it, and a new blade, and it is excellent. It is large enough for anything I have needed (so far), but easily rolls out of the way when I am not using it.
View attachment 333518

I was never crazy about the "Square" Craftsman bandsaws, so when I saw this more traditional "C" shape saw, and the condition it was in, I snatched it up. It was only $200, and I have had it for about 5 years now, and use it almost every day.

I guess my point (I do have to get to the point, right?) is don't disregard a good used tool. Check craigslist, Facebook, maybe even eBay.

oh, and I'm pretty sure Shop Fox is a Grizzly brand.

Great find! Nice size between a 9-10" hobby and the more expencive 14". Do they make it any more, or do you have to find a used one?

 

[leehljp]

I bought a Grizzly G0555LX equivalent in 2014. It is OK but not exceptional for me. I do have to fuss with it on occasion. I added a quick release, which works fine. The roller bearing guides don't seem to stay put from one weeks use to the next. It might be three or 4 weeks between one use and the next and the guides seem to move a minuscule amount and I need to adjust it a bit. I know that each tool and saw of different kinds often have their own individual personality ( ) and mine does. I know how to align and set it, it just doesn't seem to stay put.

 

[ccccchunt]

Got me an Atlas Power King yesterday for $20! No motor but I think I will upgrade to a 1HP motor. Thing is in near mint condition except for the table which needs some love and care. Only a 12" but a workhorse of the past!!! Gonna look sweet in my shop!

 

[KMCloonan]

Great find! Nice size between a 9-10" hobby and the more expencive 14". Do they make it any more, or do you have to find a used one?

I honestly do not know, but I suspect it is no longer available.

 

[RGVPens]

I've done some more looking...and I'm still on the 10" vs 14" fence. I have a very nice jointer I'm not useing right now so, I could set it aside and put a bench modle on the rolling stand I made. I'me liking the Grizzly and Rikon so far. I want to call Grizzly Springfield tomorrow and see what the different modle variations are, and if there is any real difference between Grizzly and Shop Fox.

Also saw a video that mentioned "fence adjustment for drift" ...OK...what's that about?

 

[SabertoothBunny]

I've done some more looking...and I'm still on the 10" vs 14" fence. I have a very nice jointer I'm not useing right now so, I could set it aside and put a bench modle on the rolling stand I made. I'me liking the Grizzly and Rikon so far. I want to call Grizzly Springfield tomorrow and see what the different modle variations are, and if there is any real difference between Grizzly and Shop Fox.

Also saw a video that mentioned "fence adjustment for drift" ...OK...what's that about?

The difference in the Grizzly models is mainly horse power or the metal that the table is made out of like aluminum or cast iron. Drift is when you are attempting to cut a strait line and then that line goes off course. The blade "drifts" to the left or right. That is more likely to happen with thinner blades or when you do not have the wood being cut firmly against the fence.

 

[MedWoodWorx]

The difference in the Grizzly models is mainly horse power or the metal that the table is made out of like aluminum or cast iron. Drift is when you are attempting to cut a strait line and then that line goes off course. The blade "drifts" to the left or right. That is more likely to happen with thinner blades or when you do not have the wood being cut firmly against the fence.

Why is the cast iron table mentioned with pride in the high end models? Is it supposed to be more rigid or level?

 

[penicillin]

I am with others who believe that it is possible to find the right combination of scroll saw blade type and speed that would work for you. There are so many different types of blades made for scroll saws, and different blanks may require different blades. If your budget is super tight, then I think you can make the scroll saw work for you with a little persistence and a lot of trial and error.

A bandsaw is a versatile and underrated woodworking tool, so I would not discourage you from buying one if that is where you are going.

Have you considered buying a used bandsaw? Have you looked around your local area to see what might be available? I have an old used bandsaw. It is missing all the fancy features of the modern ones, but it cuts straight, re-saws difficult woods, and does everything a bandsaw should do, very well. You can pry it out of my cold dead hands. You may want to look for a similar diamond in the rough. They are out there.

 

[leehljp]

Bandsaw drift is more of - out of alignment tracking and or too tight/loose blade. Here is the best bandsaw alignment video - by Alex Snodglass:

 

[leehljp]

Why is the cast iron table mentioned with pride in the high end models? Is it supposed to be more rigid or level?

Two purposes
1. Weight itself is a vibration dampener. (hides imperfections of alignment or pulley balance etc on cheaper machines.)
2. More rigid.

 

[penicillin]

Why is the cast iron table mentioned with pride in the high end models? Is it supposed to be more rigid or level?

Two purposes
1. Weight itself is a vibration dampener. (hides imperfections of alignment or pulley balance etc on cheaper machines.)
2. More rigid.

Adding:
2b. Cast iron is very flat and stays that way. It doesn't dent, flex, or bend like aluminum. It is far less likely to warp.
3. Magnetic accessories work on cast iron tables. I use them often. (Hint: Search for "Magjig" or "Magjig starter kit" for examples.) Magnetic accessories will not work with aluminum tables.

Speaking for myself, I would insist on a bandsaw (or table saw) with a cast iron table. I have been there, done that (BTDT) with an aluminum table already. Trust me, you won't enjoy repeating the lesson.

 

[RGVPens]

The difference in the Grizzly models is mainly horse power or the metal that the table is made out of like aluminum or cast iron. Drift is when you are attempting to cut a strait line and then that line goes off course. The blade "drifts" to the left or right. That is more likely to happen with thinner blades or when you do not have the wood being cut firmly against the fence.

I have encountered that on my scroll saw when I used other blades. Was told it was caused by the way certain manufactures made the blades. I switched to Pegas blades and the problem went away on the spot. Didn't know if a bandsaw was the same type of thing.

 

[RGVPens]

I am with others who believe that it is possible to find the right combination of scroll saw blade type and speed that would work for you. There are so many different types of blades made for scroll saws, and different blanks may require different blades. If your budget is super tight, then I think you can make the scroll saw work for you with a little persistence and a lot of trial and error.

A bandsaw is a versatile and underrated woodworking tool, so I would not discourage you from buying one if that is where you are going.

Have you considered buying a used bandsaw? Have you looked around your local area to see what might be available? I have an old used bandsaw. It is missing all the fancy features of the modern ones, but it cuts straight, re-saws difficult woods, and does everything a bandsaw should do, very well. You can pry it out of my cold dead hands. You may want to look for a similar diamond in the rough. They are out there.

I would like to find a nice used bandsaw...but there has been nothing show up down here in the Rio Grande Valley of TX. I'm about a mile from Mexico.

 

[jttheclockman]

I have encountered that on my scroll saw when I used other blades. Was told it was caused by the way certain manufactures made the blades. I switched to Pegas blades and the problem went away on the spot. Didn't know if a bandsaw was the same type of thing.

In a way yes but even Pegas blades are stamped. That is what causes drift it is somewhat a problem but can be compensated. In the scrollsaw world it means nothing in my opinion. You never cut with a fence and just follow a line. You do not even look at what the wood is doing. When blades weather scrollsaw or bandsaw blades are stamped all the teeth are cantered one way. That is the wat the drift will run. Blades like precision blades are not stamped and this is for both scrollsaw and bandsaw blades and thus you maybe using them in the Pegas line. Also the larger the blade less drift because it sturdier.

If looking at bandsaw check out the Laguna line if you want to go that floor model way. But if you go tabletop you will not be a happy camper. Will it cut blanks absolutely just like a handsaw can. But when buying tools think long term and other uses than the little bitty wood blanks we play with. Just an opinion.

 

[RGVPens]

Bandsaw drift is more of - out of alignment tracking and or too tight/loose blade. Here is the best bandsaw alignment video - by Alex Snodglass:

Thanks Hank! That was an awesome video for someone that's never had/used a bandsaw....like me!

I want to get a bandsaw for a bunch of other woodworking items I've wanted to make and sell...the pen blank thing just adds to the list. I've been thinking of adding it to my shop for a while...just haven't got around to it till now. I do want to watch it again and pay mor attention to the difference between the two saws he used...but I'm definetly NOT spending the $$ for a Powermatic! LOL

 

[RunnerVince]

I needed something basic, and went with the $160 benchtop saw from HF. For what it is, it's actually pretty good. I immediately ran into limitations because of the 3 5/8" throat (I have a bunch of cherry branches that need processing and come in, of course, at just over that). But for what you're describing, it would do great. I would just think long and hard about future use on this one.

One other thing...it advertizes that it can take up to a 1/2" blade, but I had to do some "modifications" with a dremel tool and files to get the 1/2" blade to work. If I were to do things again, I'd have ordered a 3/8" blade, which I think would have been fine for my needs. But if you need a 1/2" blade, I'd look at something else.

 

[RGVPens]

I needed something basic, and went with the $160 benchtop saw from HF. For what it is, it's actually pretty good. I immediately ran into limitations because of the 3 5/8" throat (I have a bunch of cherry branches that need processing and come in, of course, at just over that). But for what you're describing, it would do great. I would just think long and hard about future use on this one.

One other thing...it advertizes that it can take up to a 1/2" blade, but I had to do some "modifications" with a dremel tool and files to get the 1/2" blade to work. If I were to do things again, I'd have ordered a 3/8" blade, which I think would have been fine for my needs. But if you need a 1/2" blade, I'd look at something else.

I'm really wanting a bandsaw with 6" plus resaw capability. That is for things I do on the scroll saw side. I want to be able to book match tops of jewelry and trinket boxes. I think any saw in that range would take a 1/2" blade...I hope.

 

[RunnerVince]

I'm really wanting a bandsaw with 6" plus resaw capability. That is for things I do on the scroll saw side. I want to be able to book match tops of jewelry and trinket boxes. I think any saw in that range would take a 1/2" blade...I hope.

HF also has one with a 6" capacity, but it's in the same price range as the comparable Rikon, which I much prefer. The reason I went with the HF vs. the Rikon on the one I ended up buying was because the price tag at HF claimed the saw had a cast-iron base...which is not the case. I had a large commission I needed to get started on, and I didn't have the time to disassemble, repackage, return, and then go reverse the process with a Rikon from the big box store.
All that said, the Rikon with a 13" capacity comes in at $1,100 or so. There's another "deluxe" model at around $1,600 with the same capacity. If resawing is going to be a primary use, I think you might do better spending the extra money and getting something that can do more than what you need than going with a 6" capacity and constantly running the machine at its maximum capacity--on the edge, so to speak.