Bandsaw problems?

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BrianM

Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2011
Messages
51
Location
Sicklerville NJ
I have a 10" Craftsman band saw that is several years old but has had very little use. I never have been able to get it to cut straight. It always runs off to the right side (or left depending on how you look at it).
I've followed the alignment procedures numerous times and it still runs off.

I'm guessing there is an issue with the blade but I'm not sure and wanted to check with more experienced people before I go spend money on a blade or a new band saw.

On an unrelated topic, does anyone know what type of wood this is? Got it in a grab bag and can't identify it.

thanks


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that happens (probably one of several causes) when one side has lost set -sharpness as in hit steel, a rock, etc. the other side cuts agressivly and it goes around fast.

poor adjustment on the blade supports (both side of blade top and bottom) will contribute to this.

New blade -- you have to consider them disposable like sandpaper.
 
thanks for all the help. I think I'm going to try a new blade.
Lowes has the 1/4" 6TPI blade for a few dollars. It is worth a try.
 
Your guide blocks need to be square and not worn.
The guide blocks also need to be spaced (gap) to suit the blades thickness.
The depth that the blade runs into the guide blocks also needs to be properly set.
Your blade needs the proper tension which is usually set according to the scale provided on the saws tensioner.

Dave
 
Are you right handed?

The reason I ask, is because the problem looks like the blade is WAY TO LOOSE. The arch to the left is almost perfect!!! Before you spend any money, try adding tension to the blade.

Forget the "book" recommendation on tension, as it is worthless at first blade change. A properly tensioned should should like the "middle c" note on a piano or guitar.

Likely, the saw is set to cut "curves" this is a very bad thing for resawing.

If my advice is COMPLETELY WRONG, you have spent no money. Unlike Government, find the cause of the problem before throwing money at the saw.
 
too problems. one could be tension but the other is something called blade drift. bandsaw blades are most often cut with a die or punch of some sort causing the blade to cut to one side. search it on you tube, i have found some good videos on it. once you can account for the drift you can work with it not against it.
 
I actually saw a very good demo on bandsaws at the S.W.A.T. in Waco, Tx. this last weekend. One of the things brought up as a cause for this was using a fence while cutting. People have a tendency to set the fence to make repeated cuts. When doing that your good stock is usually between the blade and the fence. So we have a tendency to push from the outside of the piece of wood to keep your stock against the fence. When you do that, you actually push the cut gap closed around the blade instead of letting the gap open and spread apart as you cut. This pressure heats up the blade. The heat ruins the set on the teeth. Usually on one side. Then you have a blade only cutting properly on one side and it tends to curve one direction. When done properly, the blade is cool to the touch after the cut. I watched the guy make long fast cuts yet he could touch the blade immediately after it came to a stop. This could be one reason besides the many good ones mentioned already.
 
Thanks again for all the replies. I guess I have a few things to try this evening. Hopefully I can get this saw cutting straight.

Steve it looks and smells like you are correct. The couple I have drilled smelled terrible.
 
Invest in a good blade, it's worth the extra few dollars. I really like Timberwolf blades from Suffork Machinery, available in a few places or direct. Makes all the difference in the world. A 1/2" 3tpi blade is about what you should look for. Then make sure you have enough tension. If it's an old saw it may need a new tension spring.

Jeff in northern Wisconsin
 
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