bandsaw problems

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ahoiberg

ahoiberg

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Joined
Apr 10, 2007
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1,765
Location
Ames, IA, USA.
lately when cutting segments, i just can't seem to get anything to line up properly. it seems like i never had any problems in the past. granted, my bandsaw sat around for quite a few months before being put back into service recently.

does this speak of a bad blade? i've checked my blade to table alignment, and everything is lined up perfect at 90 deg... i thought i had my tension set good too... any ideas?

thanks.
 
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Is the blade sharp? Was tension removed from the blade while it sat for months unused? Can you be more descriptive as to exactly how the blade is behaving when you are making a cut (veering right/left, bowed cuts, etc)?

Hmm, I'm just like "Lost", many questions, few answers. :D
 
I think my guides are properly adjusted... I don't know that the tension changed much during it's sit. I've tightened it since.

i'm going to try the dremel blade sharpening tonight to see if that helps. my cuts are coming out with a slight veer to the right, so the edge I want to glue is coming out a tad over 90 deg. i built and have used for over a year the bandsaw sled that is in the library here...

thanks for that article.
 
another question. when they say pluck like a guitar string or whatever, does it really produce a clear tone? this is one problem i have with tensioning my blades. i just don't know if i'm tightening it enough. my bandsaw is an older craftsman 12" and the tension gauge probably sucks, but i guess i'm fearful i'll break something if i just keep tightening. being a musician, i guess i'm looking for an actual note from the thing! :D
 
I've got a book on band saws from "Fine Woodworking" and the author states that the tension guides on most non-industrial saws are woefully loose and that if you are going to use the guide you should adjust it to at least one setting higher than the blade you are using. He recommends a tension gauge, but they cost $200-$300. Also if you leave the tension on for a long period of time it can cause your wheels to become out of alignment depending on how your saw is made.
 
I never get a good 'tone' out of mine, it's more of a metallic 'doink', but there's definitely a ring to it, although not resounding. I pluck a few strings myself, so I know what you're saying, though.

Put the tuning fork away. hehe

I would recommend a new blade. You can always use a spare, and if it fixes the problem, you know right away. If not, then tinker some more with the nuts and bolts. It always seems that I start questioning my setup, and spend a lot of time monkeying around, when in reality it's just because I ran it through a patch of dirt. I've been using 3/8" 6tpi blades on my little 9", and they've been doing much better than the 1/4" ones I was using before, I mean night and day different. The sharpening thing might help too.

Good luck, and let us know the outcome! :)
 
Like any other cutting tool, the blade is the "most" important thing. I switched from a cheap olson blade to a timberwolf on my 3/4 4tpi and it was like night and day. The improvement was astounding. Blades are cheap enough to try just to find out. Even a home depot blade will cut better than a bad blade and you will have your answere.
 
Originally posted by ahoiberg

lately when cutting segments, i just can't seem to get anything to line up properly. it seems like i never had any problems in the past. granted, my bandsaw sat around for quite a few months before being put back into service recently.

does this speak of a bad blade? i've checked my blade to table alignment, and everything is lined up perfect at 90 deg... i thought i had my tension set good too... any ideas?

thanks.
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Andrew; I recommend the book "Band saw : workshop bench reference" by Mark Duginske. This book is considered the "gold standard" on band saws, and will help you with step by step setup, tuning, and operating instructions. You may be able to find this book or one like it in the local public library. I will have to go visit my library in the near future because a cousin of ours who is diabetic will be visiting, and I want to find some cookbook recipes.

As Stevers said, the Timberwolf blades are excellent!

PS. I always de-tension the blade when not in use for long periods.
 
James (Draken) really nailed it. Tension, not releasing tension from previous use, dull blade, low quality blade, plus proper adjustments are all possible, or likely, factors. Sound like you have a new blade in your future. Of course, a new blade means going through the readjustments.....again. BTW, I have the same frustrating problem getting proper tension as everyone else seems to.
 
thanks again. last fall, i really got serious about upgrading the saw and put new urethane tires on it, bought new blades, realigned the wheels, adjusted the bearings, etc. all this for making a few bandsawn boxes. i hope my problems are mostly from the blade, i hope to get some work done with it this weekend. i'll let y'all know how it turns out.
 
Originally posted by ahoiberg

thanks again. last fall, i really got serious about upgrading the saw and put new urethane tires on it, bought new blades, realigned the wheels, adjusted the bearings, etc. all this for making a few bandsawn boxes. i hope my problems are mostly from the blade, i hope to get some work done with it this weekend. i'll let y'all know how it turns out.
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If you put new tires on and did not release the tension then there is a very good chance that the tires are deformed as well as the blade being stretched. I would suggest that you replace the blade first and it that don't solve the problem then I would take a good hard look at those tires.
 
Originally posted by Mudder

Originally posted by ahoiberg

thanks again. last fall, i really got serious about upgrading the saw and put new urethane tires on it, bought new blades, realigned the wheels, adjusted the bearings, etc. all this for making a few bandsawn boxes. i hope my problems are mostly from the blade, i hope to get some work done with it this weekend. i'll let y'all know how it turns out.
Click to expand...


This is one of those subjects that is, and has been, debated repeatedly with no conclusion in sight. On other forums I belong to, devoted to woodworking, often the thinking is split down the center. Release tension/don't bother releasing tension. One professional and master woodworker in my town has never released tension on his bandsaws in over 25 years as a professional. He claims it simply is not necessary. See his work, watch his bandsaws in action and arguing is simply not intelligently possible. e.g. veneer resawed so thin you can almost see through it. I've seen that.
If you put new tires on and did not release the tension then there is a very good chance that the tires are deformed as well as the blade being stretched. I would suggest that you replace the blade first and it that don't solve the problem then I would take a good hard look at those tires. BTW, I release as insurance, can't hurt.
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Since i purchased a new bandsaw a couple months ago, I have been playing with it a lot to get the adjustments right. I have a tension release lever on this one so it is easy, but my older ones don't have that feature. I rarely release the tension, and i have noticed that the Timberwolf blades seem to cut well for a while and then they are barely better than the crap blade it came with. I have tried the Olsen blades, both regeular and professional and have found them to be very similar to the timberwolf. Is there any other brand that is better than them and how do I know what type of blade to use as it seems that there are many types and no way to know what they are.
 
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