Bandsaw Peg Jig

[Wmcullen]

I'm not sure if this process is right or wrong; unique or common. But I want to share in case it's interesting.​

27: Customized Zero Clearance Bandsaw Peg Jig
last post- 26: Laser Engraving 1
(3d *.obj file attached)

When I want to add "dots" to a pen design this jig quickly chops thicker dowels into usable pegs.​

The Problem
Cutting small pieces on the bandsaw is fast but pegs can disappear down the throat or roll off the table.

My Solution
(Not rocket surgery, just how I did it.)
This 3d printed jig slides onto my bandsaw blade and sets the cut depth to about 0.25".
I hold the jig in place (not shown) while using, which keeps my fingers far away from the blade.

The pegs drop into a reservoir. When I'm done, the jig slides off and I pour the pieces out the back.

I glue the pegs into drilled holes, let dry and turn.

Summary
I could cut these 3/16" plugs by hand. But it's fun to over-engineer an answer sometimes.
Thanks for looking
- Cullen

Notes on 3D Printing
Some contributors in this group are master 3D printers. I'm not one of them, but I enjoy tinkering.
I'm happy to share this model as-is. It is the attached file: cutjig2.obj.
I turn my .obj files into gcode using Cura. When I import the model I always need to scale up by 10x and turn it to orient correctly.
Those who 3D print know that the direction of printing can be important.
Material is added one layer at a time, like legos, so everything should be supported as it prints or you could run into some problems.

This model was made to be printed with the curved "ceilings" on top. No support structures are needed if you print in this orientation.

 

[leehljp]

I wish my mind was still as young as yours!

 

[WarEagle90]

Great job, Cullen. I enjoy seeing your engineered solutions for issues that come up in most woodworking shops. 3D printing has opened up a whole new world.

One thing I would add to Cullen's discussion is scalability. He designed this jig for 3/16" dowels because that's what he was using, but if he or someone else wanted to use a 1/4" dowel or wanted longer or shorter pieces, the design file can be easily modified to meet specific requirements.

Thanks for sharing your ideas with us, Cullen.

 

[TonyL]

Fantastic. I would love to see you make a bs jig that accepts square or rounds blanks to cut off corners/ radiuses.

I was thinking of a sliding v-shaped, grooved sled.

 

[Wmcullen]

I wish my mind was still as young as yours!

Ha! There might be some disadvantageous trade-offs!

One thing I would add to Cullen's discussion is scalability.

Dan- GREAT POINT!! This design should be able to accept a dowel up to about 1/4" in diameter, but you're right. It could be scaled in any direction and still work. I hadn't thought of that.

I would love to see you make a bs jig that accepts square or rounds blanks to cut off corners/ radiuses.

Hi Tony. Interesting. As far as 3d printing goes, the overall size of the print can be a limiting factor... which you can get around by printing in sections. If I'm catching your vision correctly, your jig might be bigger than I'm able to print on my inexpensive printer.

 

[TonyL]

I don't think it would need to be any larger than 3 x 3 x 2 high (possibly shorter). Thanks for evaluating. I am sending you my number in case you want to discuss.

 

[Joebobber]

Great idea! Well done.