Bandsaw blade recommendations please.

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Warren White

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Aug 27, 2014
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Like some of you, I use my bandsaw to cut my blanks to length, after the tubes are glued in. I have always experienced a slight amount of drift in the blade as I cut, despite tensioning the blade. I suspect the problem is that I am using a 1/4" blade. I do have a zero-clearance jig on the bandsaw table.
My drift has not caused any significant issues, as I finalize the length of my blank with Rick Herrell's offset jig (which I REALLY like). However, I would appreciate some advice based upon your experience. What width blade do you recommend? What about the TPI? Manufacturers? Any other thoughts? I have a Jet bandsaw with a riser, so I need a 105" blade.
 
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jttheclockman

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3/8" to 1/2" I like a metal cutting blade most of the time. But otherwise I am a lenox guy. Bi-metal, I use tri-metal carbide for resawing
 
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Fuquay Varina, NC
You can ALMOST get away with a 3/4" Laguna ReSaw King on there. I'd suggest upgrading your spring first to be sure you can tension it. We burn through about a blade a week in the shop trimming resin blanks and so far nothing has given the clean cut and durability of the Laguna. There was one blade (we have 6 on hand and send them for sharpening when needed) that I had issues with and they were quick to replace it. So they're not perfect... but the blade is well worth it.

I tried the expensive carbide Lenox and found it too grabby, especially with round stock. The Laguna looks like it should be grabby but basically just goes through everything like a laser. Almost don't need to sand wood I run through it.
 
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I've been using Timber Wolf blades for many years now. There are clear instructions on how to tension them on the back of the package. For rough shaping my knife scales I use a 1/8" blade, for resawing I use a 3/4" blade. They seem to last a long time, I've only had a few actually break on me and they have always left a pretty clean saw edge, little sanding. I've never had to return any of them. I have four sizes in my repertoire, 3/4", 1/2" 1/4" and 1/8". I buy them through Amazon and usually get them when they have a good sale on them. I do know that Woodcraft used to carry them but we don't have any Woodcraft stores in Montana.

@McKenzie Penworks. Where do you have your blades resharpened? I've got some old ones I was going to just throw out but if I can get them resharpened that would be great. Thanks.
 

MiteyF

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Jan 27, 2018
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You say you're experiencing drift, and that you've tensioned the blade, but have you adjusted the tracking? Have you adjusted the guides? Tensioning is a very minor part of setting up a bandsaw to cut properly. I had a page saved from Popular Woodworking, which apparently is not there anymore. Google something like "how to tune a bandsaw" and go through the steps. It will help immensely.
 

Warren White

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Aug 27, 2014
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Livermore, CA
I don't know if what I am experiencing is drift. Perhaps I don't understand drift well enough? If I put a 3/4 X 3/4 blank on the table (which has a stop at right angle to the cut), and am not cutting much off, the blade leaves a cut that is not exactly 90 degrees. The blade isn't stiff enough to hold true to the cut.

I have a tension mark for different size blades on the saw, and I always release the tension when the saw is not in use. My gut feeling is that the blade might track better if it were a bit wider.

Thanks for the suggestions thus far. I appreciate all of them.
 

MiteyF

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It's not necessarily that your blade isn't "stiff" enough, it's that your blade isn't tracking correctly. In fact, a blade that's TOO tight can also cause issues when cutting, aside from the risk of breaking.
 

SteveVio

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Apr 29, 2015
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Florida
Like some of you, I use my bandsaw to cut my blanks to length, after the tubes are glued in. I have always experienced a slight amount of drift in the blade as I cut, despite tensioning the blade. I suspect the problem is that I am using a 1/4" blade. I do have a zero-clearance jig on the bandsaw table.
My drift has not caused any significant issues, as I finalize the length of my blank with Rick Herrell's offset jig (which I REALLY like). However, I would appreciate some advice based upon your experience. What width blade do you recommend? What about the TPI? Manufacturers? Any other thoughts? I have a Jet bandsaw with a riser, so I need a 105" blade.
AS mentioned above - there are the basic factors to properly set up a bandsaw. Tension is one, but the guides and blade placement on the wheel are also just as important - make sure the deepest part of the gullet on the blade is at the crown on the wheel.
A good sharp blade is also I portent - low quality blades will not do well....learned this the hard way. Timberwolf and Lennox blades are great

also - check out the video by Alex Snodgrass - its a trade show demo he does and goes through proper setting up of a bandsaw
 

Warren White

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Aug 27, 2014
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Livermore, CA
I have really enjoyed and appreciated the responses to my query. I "think" my bandsaw is set up properly, but I will go over the procedure again. I have a Carter set of wheels on my bandsaw and rechecking things is always a good idea. I can't remember the brand of my blade, nor can I judge its sharpness.

Thanks again to all!
 
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