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Nautical Mead

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Feb 22, 2016
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6
Location
Goldsby, Oklahoma
Hello All!

Post #1, although I have been lurking on here for years. There are some very smart people on this site and I can usually find what I am looking for without having to ask.
That said, I have not been able to find anything about this one. I have heard people say that you should get the same quality cut from your band saw that you get from your table saw. I have been frustrated with the results from my 14" Grizzly. My best efforts produce a result that still requires removing about 1/32" on the planer to remove all the saw marks. I have installed Carter bearings, trued the tires, and increased the blade tension as high as I can. Nothing seems to help. I am starting to wonder if that level of finish is the most I can hope for from this particular saw.

My next question is, how much will I have to spend to produce significantly better results? I have been doing some research, and the 17" Grizzly is within my budget. Does anyone have any experience with this saw, or any recommendations for another saw in the same price range?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Troy
 
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Lucky2

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Mar 2, 2012
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New Brunswick/ Canada
Troy, you didn't mention what you were using for blades, they could be the reason for the poor quality cut that you're getting. I'd look into getting better blades, before I'd get rid of my saw. Unless, your present saw is old and worn out, or, you just want a new saw.

Len
 

Nautical Mead

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Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Goldsby, Oklahoma
Hi Len,

Thank you for replying. I failed to mention that I am running a 3/4" Timber Wolf blade. I have also adjusted the fence for drift.

I assume from your response that I can expect better results from this saw, and I just need to keep tinkering?

Troy
 

Lucky2

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Mar 2, 2012
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New Brunswick/ Canada
Yes, that is what I was thinking, but only because. Getting a larger saw for better cuts, is the way most men would think. Besides, who wouldn't want a nice new saw. But to get the quality of cuts you are looking for, you would need a much better quality saw, along with good quality blades. Plus, you would need to know which blade to use to cut whatever with.
Len
 

JimB

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Mar 18, 2008
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West Henrietta, NY, USA.
Troy, your information is still incomplete. 3/4” blade but what is the TPI and tooth configuration (hook, skip etc). Also what are you cutting? Hard wood vs soft wood etc.

Also an FYI, Timberwolf blades have different tensioning requirements then other brands of blades. They general require less tension. Read the package for tensioning instructions or go to their website.

BTW, I can’t actually help with your problem as I only use my BS for rough cutting but I do know everything I mentioned makes a difference.
 

duncsuss

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Jun 29, 2012
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1,408
Location
Wilmington, MA
In my experience: 3 or 4 tpi Timber Wolf blades are superb for cutting through thick wet wood, as in making bowl blanks from a freshly-felled tree. I would not expect to get clean cuts that are free from saw marks.

To get smooth/clean cuts in wet wood is difficult. To get smooth/clean cuts in dry wood is fairly easy - but requires a much finer tooth blade, and proper set-up of the saw. Search on Youtube for videos by Alex Snodgrass (he works for Carter Tools and demonstrates at trade shows, etc.).
 

DrD

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Jun 26, 2019
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Location
Columbus, Mississippi
It has been my experience with band saws - I run 2 of them in my shop - that the amount of clean-up required after cutting is directly dependent upon 2 main factors: 1) teeth per inch - the fewer tip, the smoother the cut can be, depending on the 2 nd criterion; 2) the speed of the cut. For the smoothest cut on either of my bandsaws use the fewest number of teeth per inch as you can find, and go sloooooow.
 

Nautical Mead

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Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Goldsby, Oklahoma
This blade has 6 teeth per inch, and they are regular teeth. I also failed to mention that I have the 6" riser kit installed on the saw to increase the cut capacity to approximately 12". Could that be affecting the quality of cut?

Since a 1/32" pass on the planer cleans it very nicely, is it fair to assume that I am experiencing a 1/64" wobble (plus and minus) on the blade? If so, it seems to me that that level of accuracy is all I could possibly expect from a cast iron wheel that hasn't been machine trued after casting.

I really appreciate all of the responses. The real issue is that my banker (and love of my life) has approved the purchase of a new band saw for a birthday present, but I don't want to do it if I am not going to see an increase in performance.
 

JimB

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Mar 18, 2008
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West Henrietta, NY, USA.
It appears you are using an incorrect blade. That could be part of the problem. It appears your TPI is wrong. Also, I don’t think any Timberwolf blade is referred to as 'regular teeth'. You should go to their website. They have excellent information on there for determining the correct blade for what you are doing.

Also, as I mentioned before, you need to follow their instructions for tensioning the blade. The information is on the box the blade came in and can also be found on their website. Do not follow the instructions from other manufacturers.
 

MRDucks2

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Jul 17, 2017
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Franklin, IN
While I like the cut quality and price point of the Timber Wolf Blade, as well as the info they have on what blades to use for what material, I have stopped using them because I struggle with the set-up. This is largely a me thing, as I grew up on an old 1HP bandsaw that was a 300 pound beast with blades made at the local furniture factory. As I am cutting I watch the blade and have a habit of tweaking the tension. The next thing you know I have broken another Timber Wolf blade because they are low tension blades. Number of teeth, tooth set and hook type can all affect the quality of cut.
 
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DrD

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Jun 26, 2019
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Columbus, Mississippi
MRDucks2 hit the nail squarely on the head; the machine has little to do with cut quality, esp if equipped with Carter Guides or something similar. As he said, number of teeth, & corresponding gullet, tooth set, hook type and blade tension. Getting a smooth cut from a bandsaw is a tough row to hoe; that's why I've eliminated tight inside radius curves in my bandsaw boxes - too darned hard to sand smooth. Going to an 18", 20" or 22" bandsaw will afford more options in resaw quality blades, and as such, may provide smoother cuts IF all you are doing is straight line cutting.
 

Nautical Mead

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Messages
6
Location
Goldsby, Oklahoma
Okay....

As much as I want to will it to be otherwise, you guys have convinced me that the old adage is once again true.

The problem is not the tool, but the workman.

I am on the way out the door to Woodcraft to buy a new blade. From what I am reading, I should get a skip tooth 2 tpi 3/4 inch blade?

The good news is that you guys have saved me $1,500. The bad news is that I am not getting a new band saw for my birthday. The good news I have $1,500 to spend on a new tool for the shop!

Suggestions?
 

sbwertz

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May 11, 2010
Messages
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Location
Phoenix, AZ
I use a Lenox TriMaster blade and get cuts as smooth as my tablesaw. Even when the blade was getting very dull after almost two years of use, it still gave smooth cuts, but cut more slowly. They are expensive, but last forever! Unfortunately they can't be sharpened. I wound up ruining mine when a log slipped and fell into the moving blade and broke a tooth off. Bought a new one...it has 4 months use on it so far and cuts smooth as silk.

There is a good review of it here
 
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bmachin

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Jul 28, 2013
Messages
443
Location
Owensboro, KY
Give Iturra Design a call at (904) 642-2802. Pay them the 5 bucks (maybe more now) that they charge for their catalog and enjoy the best bandsaw education/reference around for the price. Unfortunately they don't have a web presence, but they've been in business forever and their knowledge is second to none.

Bill
 

sbwertz

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May 11, 2010
Messages
2,920
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Give Iturra Design a call at (904) 642-2802. Pay them the 5 bucks (maybe more now) that they charge for their catalog and enjoy the best bandsaw education/reference around for the price. Unfortunately they don't have a web presence, but they've been in business forever and their knowledge is second to none.

Bill
That is where I got the parts to refurb it. They are the best.
 

sbwertz

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Joined
May 11, 2010
Messages
2,920
Location
Phoenix, AZ
This is what it looked like when I got it. I put a riser kit on it, found covers for it on ebay, put cool blocks, ceramic thrust bearings, a big spinner on the tensioner, etc. My dad got it from my grandfather when he died, and I got it when my dad died. My brother found the original covers for it about a year after I got it, and I have those on it now. The guys on old woodworking machines (OWWM.ORG) were a great help. They were who told me about Iturra Designs.

The only thing I have never been able to find is a cover for the belt.

221603
 
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