yes, 3mmx5mm round top brass screws coated with flux so when heated the solder sucks right in to the threads then a carbide cutter in my rotary tool to flush the screws on the inside so they are solid and nothing will budge ever. I could have done it without the screws at all, but I like the look of screws and they do help hold the clip in place while soldering. It was the thickness of the brass that made my rat tail break off. If the brass was thinner it would have made the bend, but if the brass is too thin it won't hold it's shape as a clip. I did discover that masking tape and direction of heat is the key to saving labor time. Masking tape helps prevent tool marring, even though the tape catches on fire, it still remains in place, and the heat needs to be applied to what will be the outside of the clip because if you heat the inside of the bends it's more work removing the oxidation. The original rat tail was cut using a dremel with disc clamped to the cross slide. So simple and so effective. When the tail broke off and I went to save it, because it was part of the hollow rod, it had the drill profile on one side already so it mated to the cap perfectly.
