Auto clear coat

[workinforwood]

Since I was the one that brought it up in a previous thread, I decided I'll be happy to be the guinea pig and experiment with it. I am starting with some minor research first. I emailed a few manufacturer's for comments and opinions. I contacted Meguiar's as well for advice and about some of there polishing compounds that are meant for plastics and clearcoats, which could be an experiment right there all on it's own. I will attempt to get an ounce of clear coat for free from the dealership to play with. Hate to buy a pint and find out it is junk. I'll be sure and let ya'll know what happens. I'll try it on some pens and then I'll use the pen at work, which is very hard on pens since I'm a trucker. I'd say on an average day my pen goes through 20 hands, as well as takes many knocks in my shirt pocket while hand unloading freight.

My main pen finishing experience is using baggies and/or wax paper to spread CA. Any other methods I should try, any suggestions as to what to experiment with in application methods for the automotive clear coat will be appreciated.

 

[Fred]

Sounds like a god plan to me. Indeed, keep us informed of your findings. []

 

[oldsmokey]

I used to use automotive finishes (modified acrylic lacquer) for kitchen cabinets. Great finish. When the EPA in Calif changed the laws I was not able to get it anymore. A lot of the finishes for cars are baked on enamels. Don't know how that would work.
When you go to different states you might be able to buy good finishes that are not available in other states. Be sure you can transport them across state lines before buying them.
If you can find modified acrylic lacquer automotive finish it is great. I tied to get it when I moved to Idaho, but they don't carry it here.

 

[workinforwood]

That's basically what I just found out too. Can't buy the old stuff anymore, and the new stuff is 2 part epoxy. I'm told it's basically the same as bar top epoxy only thinned down and atomized. It is $200 for a kit, then you need measuring devices, because it has to be 4:1 ratio. That's way expensive, but on top of that it is supposed to be sprayed on, not wiped. I'm not so sure though that you couldn't wipe it on, but at $200, it's too expensive. The dealership said they'd give me an ounce, but they have to mix it, and then it only will last 4 hrs in a container. Once applied it takes 2 days to cure good and then can be sanded or polished. That's not exactly quick turn over. Of course, in a factory they bake the paint, they use special UV cured clear coats and other fancy methods to speed things up. So I'm not going to waste my time fiddling with an expensive finish that has no real potential of being better than what I already have. I always thought the clear coat on a car was acrylic...but hey, now I know otherwise.

I am going to get some of that automotive polishing compound and give it a try. It's supposed to give and maintain a very wet look. It's only about $18 , and if I don't like it, I can always wash the car.

 

[DWK5150]

I have used automotive clears before. I personally have used PPG Diamond clear and there DCU 2021 they are both fairly high solids but you only have a few hour buff window other wise it gets way to hard to work with. It seems to be holding up fairly well but I dont know that it would be cost effective. Most auto clears now are urethane or polyurethane. You can still get laquer though in some areas.

 

[Firefyter-emt]

As a caerified auto painter, I would suggest against it. IMHO, it is not much stronger than lacquer in the use you are using it for and the coast is far more expensive than the lacuqer. You need to mix enough so that you can measure it properly and the left over must be thrown out as it will gell in a matter of hours. It will be a much higher solids so the film thickness is higher and the pen will "bulk up" I personaly painted a pen once and it did not hold up well at all.