Applying CA to Bethlehem Olivewood

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Chasboy1

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Messages
158
Location
Morristown, NJ
I will be making a pen as a gift using olivewood. I intend to use CA for the finish but I’m unsure about which thickness to use and how to apply it. This is my first wood pen. Thanks!
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

Wmcullen

Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2020
Messages
162
Location
Fairfax, Virginia
I'll let others with answers respond to the question. But I just turned an olivewood pen yesterday. Turning and sanding it smooth made my workshop smell downright appetizing. I loved it.
That saddest part of the project was finishing it with Shellawax. No more olive smell. :(
Enjoy.
 

Chasboy1

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Messages
158
Location
Morristown, NJ
I'll let others with answers respond to the question. But I just turned an olivewood pen yesterday. Turning and sanding it smooth made my workshop smell downright appetizing. I loved it.
That saddest part of the project was finishing it with Shellawax. No more olive smell. :(
Enjoy.
Bill, I guess I can tell the recipient that if he gets tired of the pen he can always eat it!
 

PreacherJon

Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2019
Messages
213
Location
Ohio
You can look on this site for CA finishing... For Olive wood... it is the same. Here is an Olivewood I did recently with CA.
 

Attachments

  • Bethlehem 01a.jpg
    Bethlehem 01a.jpg
    254.2 KB · Views: 40

Gerald Etto

Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
7
Location
Malaysia
IMG_0531.jpeg
IMG_0529.jpeg


I turned this olivewood pen before the lockdown here in Malaysia. I actually loved it sanded without any CA but decided to anyway.

I used maybe two coats of thin, one coat of medium CA.
 

magpens

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
14,570
Location
Coquitlam, BC, Canada
I have finished many olivewood pen blanks with CA.

After the first 3 coats I sand, somewhat lightly, to flatten any bumps. After 5 or so coats I sand after every coat, and a little more heavily, trying to level things out a bit more. . Sometimes the CA applications go on with a fairly level outcome so less sanding is required.

Always very beautiful results !! . Olivewood finished with CA makes a very lovely pen.

I use only thin CA. . The number of coats varies a little but is usually around 8 - 10 and depends on how uniform the coats go on.
Sometimes a CA layer turns out more bumpy which requires more sanding. . With the sanding, you never really know how much you take off.

BTW, if you don't like the very shiny result after sanding and polishing the CA, you can make it matte by using fine steel wool very lightly.
I prefer shiny though.
 

Dalecamino

Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2008
Messages
13,935
Location
Indianapolis, In.
I'm not going to add any confusion to the subject, by offering another way to achieve your goal. However, I WILL recommend you follow Mal's process. You will be fine. One thing though, you should wipe the wood with Acetone before applying the CA, to remove any oil that MAY be on the wood surface, and LET IT DRY... Good luck!
 

studioseven

Member
Joined
May 6, 2014
Messages
658
Location
Wisconsin
Charles,
I have made quite a few olivewood pens with a CA finish. Check out the library on CA finishes. Just a little advice.. CA finishes have a learning curve. I would recommend Glu Boost for your first pen. It is a little more forgiving. It does cost more than CA but you don't have to use as many coats. There are some very good videos on You Tube on how to apply it. If you decide to go ahead with the CA, try to find some non stick bushings. While they really aren't non stick, the CA doesn't adhere to them as quickly as normal bushings. It makes it a little easier to remove your blank when done. Good luck and we can't wait to see pictures of your pen when finished.

Seven
 

eharri446

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2016
Messages
1,001
Location
Marietta, GA
Make sure that you wear a good quality respirator, or have a fan blowing the CA fumes away from your face. Otherwise you have some respiratory issues down the road.
 

sorcerertd

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
527
Location
North Carolina, USA
I do love the smell of olive wood! As much as I hate to cover it up, I feel that lighter woods need protection to prevent discoloration from handling.

I won't muddy the waters with more CA advice other than to recommend practicing on something other than the olive first. Turn a plain piece of scrap wood down near a large pen size, finish it, carve it down again and repeat. The best way to figure it out is to do it repeatedly and see what works best for you.
 

Chasboy1

Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2019
Messages
158
Location
Morristown, NJ
Make sure that you wear a good quality respirator, or have a fan blowing the CA fumes away from your face. Otherwise you have some respiratory issues down the road.
I made the blanks today, applied a few coats of thin and it was looking very nice. I then added 2 coats of thick and it went downhill from there, so I sanded it all off. When I get to 5+ coats of thin, do I use fine abrasives to smooth out for polishing? I have a set of micromesh.
I usually buff my plastic blanks on a flannel wheel, can I use the same process for the final polish or is there something else. I don’t have any ‘penmakers’ polish and have no time to get any at this point. Is there an automotive polish/wax/compound I can use?

Eharri446, you mentioned a respirator. Today for the first time I ‘felt something’ apparently from the fumes given off from the CA. I was wondering what others do about that. I try to avoid the CA quick hardener spray because it’s so noxious.
Thanks everyone!
 

jttheclockman

Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2005
Messages
15,405
Location
NJ, USA.
I have made many pens with Olive wood and treat is as any other wood when top coating with CA. I never use thick CA. I put 3 to 4 coats of thin and 3 to 4 coats med. Then sand and MM. Now I do not take photos of all pens I make but here is one segmented with black acrylic Zen. Treated the same way even with the acrylic.

IMGP1049.JPG
IMGP1048.JPG
 
Top Bottom