Applying CA on the lathe??

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Bob Roehrig

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Hello all..... I am in need of some suggestions and expertise. I use CA quite a bit for my final pen finishes but get frustrated in the application process. To be more exact, I'm tired of getting my fingers coated with the stuff as it burns through my blue Nitrate gloves that supposidly everyone says CA will not stick to. Maybe my Harbor Freight gloves are not immune????? What does work but is very inconvient is me using the little zip lock plastic baggies that ones pen accessories come in when we purchase kits. Problem is, they are so inconvient are are just a pain to keep on as I finish. Looking for other good "tricks" and solutions that others use that work and would appreciate things that work that others are using.......Thanks in advance.
 
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folks use everything from white paper towels, blue shop towels, craft foam, rubber finger cots, plastic pen parts bags etc. . that will be up to you. all the ca that i have used has burnt through my gloves. i use white paper towelsl without gloves. u will get a lot of worthwhile responses from this group.
 
TonyL said:
folks use everything from white paper towels, blue shop towels, craft foam, rubber finger cots, plastic pen parts bags etc. . that will be up to you. all the ca that i have used has burnt through my gloves. i use white paper towelsl without gloves. u will get a lot of worthwhile responses from this group.
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Thanks Tony for taking the time to reply. Surfing around on YouTube this morning I think the best procedural technique I've found thus far is a short demo by Crafts Supply showing the process. Fella is wearing Black Nitrate gloves, but I don't think color matters. Thin CA goes through those paper towels and definitely eats holes into those gloves thus leaving hard to remove CA from fingers. Even good ol Acetone takes some scrubbing. Thinking of maybe taping my finger tips with blue Painters tape and see how that fairs......never know.
 
Bob; I do not apply CA while wearing gloves. (I DO use gloves while gluing in tubes) I use "craft foam" as an applicator. It comes in 11" x 17" sheets from any craft store. Cut is into strips about 3/4" to 1" wide. It is closed cell foam so CA will not soak through it or into it. Because CA doesn't soak into the foam, you only need a very tiny amount of CA. Lathe speed below 500 RPM. Use it and then let the CA on the strip cure and cut off the end with a scissors. Rinse and repeat.
 
I use the blue nitrile gloves from HF to apply CA to my pens and have NEVER had the glue eat through the glove. What type of CA do you use? I use Easy Bond with no problems.
 
Hi Bob,

Tony's first sentence summed the options concisely. I switched from paper towel to craft foam several years ago, and no longer choose any other method.

I cut the craft foam into strips approximately 3/4" x 2". There's nothing magical about the size; it's how the math worked based on the size of the sheet.

I basically think of the foam as a "squeegee" to move CA across the surface. I put a small drop or two on the end of the foam and "squeegee" CA from one end of the barrel to the other (no retouching...just let it be). If you're careful enough, you can use the other side of the same end of the foam for the 2nd coat.

For the second coat, I start from the opposite end of the blank as the first (i.e., right to left, then left to right). Depending on the barrel shape, I might apply 3rd and 4th coats middle out, and then alternate to avoid the middle of the barrel being shy of CA.

After I've used both sides of the end of the foam I snip it off and have a fresh end.

Why I like craft foam:

-I have minimal waste of expensive CA; more ends up on a pen than soaked in a towel.

-I am more consistent with my finishing schedule because my technique is more reliable. I typically over-sand somewhere around 0.008" to 0.01", build up CA to about + 0.005, then micromesh to final. By using craft foam, I have better control of the amount of CA I apply. I have it down to where I can rely on a 6-coat thin, 4-coat thick approach and use only one strip of foam.

-Foam "squeegee" leaves a smoother surface that takes less effort to final finish because of fewer ridges left by other methods. Foam allows a lighter touch because your finger isn't pushing against the barrel.

-I no longer have those disheartening lint specks that paper towels can leave behind and aren't discovered until the final polish.

-I use darker foam colors to make sure I can see any dust or debris that might cause a finish flaw.

Buy a sheet of foam and practice your technique on a skinny spinning stick pretending to be a pen barrel. Once you get the hang of it, I'm betting you stay with it.
 
randyrls said:
Bob; I do not apply CA while wearing gloves. (I DO use gloves while gluing in tubes) I use "craft foam" as an applicator. It comes in 11" x 17" sheets from any craft store. Cut is into strips about 3/4" to 1" wide. It is closed cell foam so CA will not soak through it or into it. Because CA doesn't soak into the foam, you only need a very tiny amount of CA. Lathe speed below 500 RPM. Use it and then let the CA on the strip cure and cut off the end with a scissors. Rinse and repeat.
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Most interesting solution I must say and will have to definitely give it a try. I have loads of small scraps of Craft Foam and this will be a great use for it if it works for me as well as it did for you. As you stated, CA doesn't soak through foam like it does with Blue Paper towels and other similar material thus will eliminate soaking through and eating gloves up and making it difficult on the fingers. Can't wait to try it.......Thanks
 
I've tried the plastic parts bag technique and do not like to coating I get from it. Always seems to need more sanding to get it even.
Same as @TonyL , I use white paper towel.
I take one whole sheet (not one of those 1/2 sheets that they want you to use to save the earth) and fold it lengthwise into 3/4" to 1" folds, folding each successive fold into the next. Not like a fan. I then hold the folded paper towel end just under the blank to be coated with tip of the folded paper towel about 1/2 to 3/4" away from my fingers. With the lathe running slow (250 to 400 RPM) I drip CA onto the side of the blank that is near me, one drip at a time. As I do that I move the folded paper towel slowly across the blank, (from one end to the other, not back and forth), dripping CA as I go. Generally takes 3 - 5 drips per layer. Once the blank is coated I stop dripping Ca and remove the folded paper towel. I place the paper towel on my bench away from me so I avoid the smoke and fumes from the CA interacting with the paper. Once the CA had set one the blank (I seldom use accelerator) I snip the end of the folded paper towel that I just used to remove the hardened tip to get to fresh paper towel (using a scissor virtually eliminates any strands). Rinse and repeat as many layers as you want to apply.
I do not use gloves as the process only takes 5 - 10 seconds and the glue never gets to my fingers.
 
To start... I'm in the white paper towel camp, really just because the guys that all showed me how to apply CA (GluBoost) use that method so it's what I use.

What method are you currently using? I use gloves because I don't want to take the chance of the glue going through the paper towel and sticking to me. No other real reason. That said, I don't think I've ever glued the thing to my glove. I use what would be a quarter sheet of a standard size paper towel folded over to be around the width of my finger.

I've watched videos that John Underhill and Mark Dreyer have posted on youtube and I'd say my application method is closer to John's because I have the lathe on when applying the CA.

What exactly is your application process? How much CA are you using? I use four drops (ish) of CA per application for a pen unless I'm doing something like a really long single body like the Craft Supplies Long Click and then I might use 6 or 7. I wonder if you're using too much or need to speed up your process if it's flashing off before you're done applying it.
 
I use one nitrile glove on my left hand and then blue painters tape on the top of my index finger. I too use the paper towel method and when the glue soaks through the towel it only goes as far as the painters tape. I will say the painters tape does get hard after a few coats and I just peel off the hard stuff and continue on.
 
+1 for the blue painter's tape on the index finger. If it begins to react and get hot, rip it off.

I use blue shop towels cut up into small pieces and folded for application.
 
I feel very hesitant to comment on anything that Barry says as he obviously knows far more than I ever will on making pens. However, I really wish he would have mentioned the need for wearing safety glasses when applying CA glue. While 500 RPM might be low enough to keep from slinging it around, I would not want to take that chance...
 
I use no gloves and blue shop towels to apply. With medium CA, I get a good 2-3 seconds to spread it evenly before it starts to grab and tear off fibers from the towel. Takes a bit of practice, but after 4 or 5 pens like this you'll have it down.
 
My instinct says you're using way too much ca, if it's soaking through a folded paper towel as Mortalus described. You will get paper towel fibers in your finish doing that, so I don't recommend. I use craft foam. Approx 2 drops ultra, 3 thin, or 5 medium at most per layer. Good luck!
 
I cut a nitrile glove fingers off. It gives me basically 5 finger cots. if you are getting Ca on the gloves you are using too much and playing with it too long. Couple drops on the blue shop paper towels and 2 wipes. One one way and then back and walk away. It is like putting spackle on the wall when shee trocking. the more you play with it the worse it looks.
 
I shoot for 250-300 RPM.

jttheclockman said:
One one way and then back and walk away. It is like putting spackle on the wall when shee trocking. the more you play with it the worse it looks.
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This, 100%.

As @jttheclockman says like sheet rocking, another one is like applying caulk, the more you touch it, the worse it looks and the more you have it on stuff you don't want it on.
 
Bob Roehrig said:
Thanks Tony for taking the time to reply. Surfing around on YouTube this morning I think the best procedural technique I've found thus far is a short demo by Crafts Supply showing the process. Fella is wearing Black Nitrate gloves, but I don't think color matters. Thin CA goes through those paper towels and definitely eats holes into those gloves thus leaving hard to remove CA from fingers. Even good ol Acetone takes some scrubbing. Thinking of maybe taping my finger tips with blue Painters tape and see how that fairs......never know.
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Give it a try. Trying something new never hurts.
 
My two cents: I have used just about every method mentioned and don't really have a problem with any. I just don't like how much CA is soaked up in paper towels, so I haven't used that method in 15 years or more.

The reason that I can use any of the methods with decent success is something I learned just after my first few pens. I too had problems at different processes and especially CA application the first few weeks. Then I cut up a 2x4 into a bunch of pen blanks, and practiced the different processes for a few hours at a time. I practiced drilling those small blanks (I have been woodworking for years, so normal drilling was not a problem, but small blanks drilled lengthwise when one is not used to it can result in off center drilling or blowouts). I practiced turning - and soft pine is the worst to learn on, but if you can turn soft pine to a round state, then you are gaining skill. After gluing the tubes in and turning a dozen or two round, I spent two or three hours practicing the application of CA. That helped and it worked.

I was NOT trying to make pens. I was trying to learn the "stages" that produce a nice looking pen. That was the best shortcut for the learning curve that I could have done. That might or might not work for you.
 
leehljp said:
My two cents: I have used just about every method mentioned and don't really have a problem with any. I just don't like how much CA is soaked up in paper towels, so I haven't used that method in 15 years or more.

The reason that I can use any of the methods with decent success is something I learned just after my first few pens. I too had problems at different processes and especially CA application the first few weeks. Then I cut up a 2x4 into a bunch of pen blanks, and practiced the different processes for a few hours at a time. I practiced drilling those small blanks (I have been woodworking for years, so normal drilling was not a problem, but small blanks drilled lengthwise when one is not used to it can result in off center drilling or blowouts). I practiced turning - and soft pine is the worst to learn on, but if you can turn soft pine to a round state, then you are gaining skill. After gluing the tubes in and turning a dozen or two round, I spent two or three hours practicing the application of CA. That helped and it worked.

I was NOT trying to make pens. I was trying to learn the "stages" that produce a nice looking pen. That was the best shortcut for the learning curve that I could have done. That might or might not work for you.
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That's great advice Hank.
 
I switched from white paper towels to blue shop towels and may or may not wear gloves.
I put one large drop on a strip of 1/2" -3/4" wide blue shop towel about 1-1/2" long folded in thirds and apply while the lathe is spinning the blank.
I make one pass quickly in each direction, then drop the towel into a container with water.
I usually do 5-6 layers.

One thing which seems to have improved my technique/results is switching to GluBoost.
Honestly, I'm not sure if it's the glue itself or their superior bottle but it's definitely better.

I have not tried craft foam yet.
 
I had given up on CA for a good finish, used many different applicators but never satisfied with the final product. thought the hype on GluBoost was sales hype, finally gave it a try with paper towel...it has earned a place in my shop.
Still a fan of more natural finishes for my wood pens depending on the type of wood
 
BarryE said:
Still a fan of more natural finishes for my wood pens depending on the type of wood
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Barry; I too want a wood pen to "feel" like wood, not plastic. So after applying CA completely, and letting it cure, I use 0000 steel wool on the pen while still on the lathe. It gives the pen a satin finish and wood feel. It still protects against hand oil and dirt like CA. When done, there appears to be no finish at all!
 
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