anyone use this jig and can show projects

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I use them for many projects such as cabinets.
 

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I will add the following. I took a scrap piece of 3/4 plywood and sized it so I could clamp it to the top of my workbench with bench dogs and the end vise. I screwed the Kreg to the plywood and so it is removable easily and I can also mount the bench vise there if needed.
 
randyrls said:
I will add the following. I took a scrap piece of 3/4 plywood and sized it so I could clamp it to the top of my workbench with bench dogs and the end vise. I screwed the Kreg to the plywood and so it is removable easily and I can also mount the bench vise there if needed.
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I'll second that approach. My Kreg's mounted on a plywood base, with the stop/ support attached as well. I'll probably add more home brew supports, for when I'm doing a big panel.

But I just used the jig Wed night, and I'ts a pleasure every time. Strong, quick, seamless.
 
I've been thinking of buying one also. I watched the infomercial and was impressed. I have a couple of questions though . . .'

1st . . . the holes look pretty ugly . . . but, I guess it's a matter of strategically hiding them.

2nd . . and this is my bigger question. I always read that joints in wood furniture should be made so that the matching pieces of wood can contract and expand during the seasons. Thus, you are supposed to avoid fixed metal fasteners. Am I wrong about this? Or, maybe the idea of wood joints is only for the fine furniture kind of people?

3rd . . regardless of my first two questions . . I'm ready to buy a Kreg. What and where is the best deal?
 
DocStram said:
I've been thinking of buying one also. I watched the infomercial and was impressed. I have a couple of questions though . . .'

1st . . . the holes look pretty ugly . . . but, I guess it's a matter of strategically hiding them.

2nd . . and this is my bigger question. I always read that joints in wood furniture should be made so that the matching pieces of wood can contract and expand during the seasons. Thus, you are supposed to avoid fixed metal fasteners. Am I wrong about this? Or, maybe the idea of wood joints is only for the fine furniture kind of people?

3rd . . regardless of my first two questions . . I'm ready to buy a Kreg. What and where is the best deal?
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I just got my at wood craft it was a few $$ cheaper than sears and the big box. I have also seen it on sale at Rocklers before.

I am not the newbie one to answer your join question but I will tell you the work bench I slapped together is super rock solid for now and I am more impressed than I thought I would be. I have maybe super ideas now if I could just buy some free time.......
 
DocStram said:
I've been thinking of buying one also. I watched the infomercial and was impressed. I have a couple of questions though . . .'

1st . . . the holes look pretty ugly . . . but, I guess it's a matter of strategically hiding them.

2nd . . and this is my bigger question. I always read that joints in wood furniture should be made so that the matching pieces of wood can contract and expand during the seasons. Thus, you are supposed to avoid fixed metal fasteners. Am I wrong about this? Or, maybe the idea of wood joints is only for the fine furniture kind of people?

3rd . . regardless of my first two questions . . I'm ready to buy a Kreg. What and where is the best deal?
Click to expand...

Typically, the holes are hidden on the back of the face frame, or somewhere that they won't be seen. However, there are hardwood plugs made specifically for pocket holes. They'll need to be trimed flush to the surface, but that's easy enough.

As far as wood expansion- if you're doing a face frame with hardwood, there's not that much movement in your typical 1-1/2" rail. But in classic construction, if you use a steb tennon for a door for instance, the rail is glued into the stile. That also doesn't allow for movement. So if you use a butt glued and pocket hole joint- or just the pocket holes with no glue at all- you're really not restricting movement more than a glued steb tennon and groove joint. But really, movement if more of an issue with large panels, like door and tabletops. In those cases, you can use metal fasteners, but not too many, and not in the wrong locations.

And on the last item- I haven't shopped around, but I'd reccomend buying what your budget allows. I got the R3 Rocket jig first. It was inexpensive but very useful. I had no issues with it at all. However, I trade that for the K3 MAster system when I saw the K3 on sale at Lowes for only $20 or so more than I sold my R3 and a couple of homemade clamps for. I'd say if you're going to do large panels, or just a large number of projects, go with the K3. You have the benchtop setup, AND the mobile block.

P.S- Pocket holes work well for drawers too. I used them for my built-in dresser, and I've had no issues at all.
 
Get one!!!! I've had mine for over 15 years and use it all the time. It is great for cabinetmaking, unbelievably fast without glue-setting clamping, and I've even used it to silence a squeaky floor. It will make you a better woodworker and let you do things you didn't think you were good enough to do.
Good Luck!!
 
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