Russianwolf
Member
Or Resolute? They claim dipping for 60 seconds goes to the core, which I find hard to believe.
http://cuecomponents.com/nelsonite.html
http://cuecomponents.com/nelsonite.html
anyone heard of stabilizing with Nelsonite
- Thread starter Russianwolf
- Start date
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TowMater
Member
I don't think I need 5 gallons but I wouldn't mind a half gallon to try out....
Gary Max
Member
What happens here is----the use of the word stablize. What they are takling about and what you want are two different things. It will not do what you are wanting.
sbell111
Member
It should be noted that they didn't technically make that claim. They quuoted some random emailer who likely doesn't even exist. If someone claimed that the goop didn't work, they no doubt would claim that they never promised that it would.
ElMostro
Member
Mike, I use resolute and below is what I can share BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE:
It works like a wood hardener; so it will harden soft wood fibers but WILL NOT fill cracks or holes OR "GLUE" the piece together which is what I think people expect when they hear the word "stabalize". For example, if the blank has a crack the wood fibers at the edges of the crack will harden but resolute will not fill the crack and harden thick enough to seal and repair the crack...the crack will still be there...then again Minwax wood hardener won't repair the crack either.
I tested resolute and Minwax wood hardener on two very light Box Elder blanks. I weighed the blanks before and after treatment. After drying the resolute treated blank weighed about 1/4 - 1/2 oz more than the Minwax Hardener treated one so I can surmise that the resolute left more of the solution in the wood fibers once dry. I have used resolute with vacuum, pressure and just dipping and really can't tell the difference. It penetrated deep into the wood even without drilling the blanks. So far I have not used it on real dense woods but the softer the wood the faster it penetrates, (I know duh). It does take a while for the solution to dry, I have had blanks airing out for a week or more. I recommend using it outdoors and leave the blanks protected from the elements but outside for several days. I brought mine into the shop the following morning after treating them and when I went returned from work that evening the whole shop smelled like resolute, it is a pretty strong smell when in an enclosed area. Blanks treated turned fine, you can still smell the soulution while turning, on some treated pieces that were initially very, very soft I still used some thin CA before the final sanding to really harden the fibers.
My conclusions: it WILL harden the wood fibers and will make the treated wood much harder. It penetrates quickly and deep (at least for pen blanks). Using pressure will make the blanks sink in the solution much faster but if used without pressure they will sink (eventually, 3-5 days). It dries inside the wood and does not gunk up or harden as a film on the wood, but it takes several days (5-12 days) to completely dry. Unlike proffesionally stabalized wood you will have to apply a finish once done turning.
The results are no where near professional stabilization where the end result is a hard piece of plasticized wood, with resolute you end up hith a harder piece of wood.
Oh yea; I bought 5 Gallons of hte stuff...I will eventually use it though. Hope this helps.
It works like a wood hardener; so it will harden soft wood fibers but WILL NOT fill cracks or holes OR "GLUE" the piece together which is what I think people expect when they hear the word "stabalize". For example, if the blank has a crack the wood fibers at the edges of the crack will harden but resolute will not fill the crack and harden thick enough to seal and repair the crack...the crack will still be there...then again Minwax wood hardener won't repair the crack either.
I tested resolute and Minwax wood hardener on two very light Box Elder blanks. I weighed the blanks before and after treatment. After drying the resolute treated blank weighed about 1/4 - 1/2 oz more than the Minwax Hardener treated one so I can surmise that the resolute left more of the solution in the wood fibers once dry. I have used resolute with vacuum, pressure and just dipping and really can't tell the difference. It penetrated deep into the wood even without drilling the blanks. So far I have not used it on real dense woods but the softer the wood the faster it penetrates, (I know duh). It does take a while for the solution to dry, I have had blanks airing out for a week or more. I recommend using it outdoors and leave the blanks protected from the elements but outside for several days. I brought mine into the shop the following morning after treating them and when I went returned from work that evening the whole shop smelled like resolute, it is a pretty strong smell when in an enclosed area. Blanks treated turned fine, you can still smell the soulution while turning, on some treated pieces that were initially very, very soft I still used some thin CA before the final sanding to really harden the fibers.
My conclusions: it WILL harden the wood fibers and will make the treated wood much harder. It penetrates quickly and deep (at least for pen blanks). Using pressure will make the blanks sink in the solution much faster but if used without pressure they will sink (eventually, 3-5 days). It dries inside the wood and does not gunk up or harden as a film on the wood, but it takes several days (5-12 days) to completely dry. Unlike proffesionally stabalized wood you will have to apply a finish once done turning.
The results are no where near professional stabilization where the end result is a hard piece of plasticized wood, with resolute you end up hith a harder piece of wood.
Oh yea; I bought 5 Gallons of hte stuff...I will eventually use it though. Hope this helps.
Russianwolf
Member
actually they did, it's just on the page that lead me to this one.
http://cuecomponents.com/stwo.html
Russianwolf
Member
that's for the info Eugene. If I find more punky wood, I might consider it. I just thought it was odd that it hadn't been brought up here before (couldn't find it using search).
Sfolivier
Member
According to ElMostro's post. This really seem to work like a thin CPES (Epoxy stabilizer). Doesn't really fill anything but hardens the structure somehow.
edstreet
Member
perhaps they are referring to veneer when they say 60 seconds and it will penetrate to the core. 
AS for weight goes I have sent wood to WSSI (professional stabilizing) and the weight was almost doubled, i.e. sent 4 pounds got 7 pounds back, just the wood not the packing.
Either one of these would benefit from vacuum while you apply the chemicals. vacuum will reduce the air inside the wood and allow more fluid to soak in. i.e. 'full penetration'
Ed
AS for weight goes I have sent wood to WSSI (professional stabilizing) and the weight was almost doubled, i.e. sent 4 pounds got 7 pounds back, just the wood not the packing.
Either one of these would benefit from vacuum while you apply the chemicals. vacuum will reduce the air inside the wood and allow more fluid to soak in. i.e. 'full penetration'
Ed
SuperDave
Member
I contacted Cue Components several years ago and was told that what they used would not work for pen blanks. Never offered me any additional information other than "it won't work for your application." Needless to say, I never bought any from him.
Tanner
Member
I have a gallon of Nelsonite. I held two blanks under pressure overnight. The blanks were pre-drilled. Let them dry for a few days. When drilling both blank ends tore out. The wood was real punky cross cut spalted maple. When I tried it with Minwax Wood Hardener they were fine. When I tried it with 1/2 Wood Hardener and 1/2 Polyurethane, they were fine. The poly will take awhile to dry so I followed Curtis' suggestion and baked them in an old toaster oven on low for a few of hours. Dry all the way through. Turned real nice.