Any bowl turners?

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saltwein

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Independence, MO.
I am turning my first bowl. Started with a slab of spalted maple, I am having a heck of a time getting anywhere near a smooth surface. Taking light cuts and using sharp tools. I like the shape of the bowl and am just considering doing a lot of sanding-any suggestions?

Regards, Steve
 
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Steve,
I am by no means an expert but I have turned many bowls. Most likely the blank you chose may be a little too punky and sofy which is why you are getting the tearout. You can try smoothing it with a scraper. This can sometimes help or you can try a shear cut with your bowl gouge where you stand the gouge almost vertical and roll the edge od the gouge over until it starts a light cut. That is the best way but takes some practice to do right. You might also try saturating the areas with thin CA and then take light cuts. Spalted wood is beautiful but can be a pain to work with.

Chris
 
Originally posted by Ron in Drums PA
<br />Do you know how to do a shear cut with a bowl gouge?

One trick is to apply a oil finish to the wood than take some light cuts.

Good luck

I've used soapy water in a spray bottle.
Steve here is a link to a post by Bill Grumbine showing various cutting technics including shear scraping.
 
I think you might want to try a different material for the first bowl. Spalted wood is difficult for even a master bowl turner
(which I am far from). I have had spalted bowls that I have had to use a sander to finish because no matter what I did the punky wood tore out.
 
Not an expert but make sure that you identified where your end grain is, if it is on the sides of the blank make sure you are cuttilng from smallest to biggest on the outside of the bowl and from biggest to smallest on the inside. If endgrain is betwean centers reverse everything I just said[:D].
 
Far from being an expert but all answers are good!

sharp tools
light cuts
stabilize
cut with supported grain (that is cut from smaller diameter to bigger inside the bowl and cut from bigger diameter to smaller outside the bowl)
shear cut with bowl gouge? [:D]...you need a DVD to show you that [;)] or go to Bill G's site as mentioned above.

BTW, your plan to do a lot of sanding is not a bad idea. Remember...spalted wood = fungus so make sure you protect your lungs!!!
 
Originally posted by Dario
cut from bigger diameter to smaller outside the bowl)


Dario, that is the way I do it because I get a better shaped from.

But the experts tell me I do it wrong. To support the grain you should cut smaller (bottom) to bigger (top) on the outside of a bowl to avoid tear out.

BTW, you and I do the inside backwards too.
 
Not if the endgrain is running parrellel to the axis[;)].
Originally posted by Ron in Drums PA
<br />
Originally posted by Dario
cut from bigger diameter to smaller outside the bowl)


Dario, that is the way I do it because I get a better shaped from.

But the experts tell me I do it wrong. To support the grain you should cut smaller (bottom) to bigger (top) on the outside of a bowl to avoid tear out.

BTW, you and I do the inside backwards too.
 
Originally posted by Ron in Drums PA
<br />
Originally posted by Dario
cut from bigger diameter to smaller outside the bowl)


Dario, that is the way I do it because I get a better shaped from.

But the experts tell me I do it wrong. To support the grain you should cut smaller (bottom) to bigger (top) on the outside of a bowl to avoid tear out.

BTW, you and I do the inside backwards too.

The reverse is true for face turning BUT this (what I described)should work for end grain.

As I said...I am no expert so I may be mistaken [;)]

BTW, if you check Richard Raffan's books...it probably will agree with what I wrote [;)] I can double check tonight.
 
Okay guys, let's not confuse others now.

faceturning = grain perpendicular to the lathe bed.
endgrain and spindle = grain running parallel to the lathe bed.

faceturning
...to cut supported inside the bowl, cut from bigger dia to smaller dia
...to cut supported outside the bowl, cut from smaller dia to bigger dia

endgrain turning
...to cut supported inside the bowl, cut from smaller dia to bigger dia
...to cut supported outside the bowl, cut from bigger dia to smaller dia

These are recommended for final cuts to avoid tearout...you can cut any direction you want (or whatever works) while shaping.
 
Thanks for all of the tips. I was using a shear cut and ca. I suspected it might be the spalt that was making it difficult. I just took the bowl off of the lathe and put a coat of salad bowl finish on it. Not bad for a first try. Your responses make me feel better about the results. Thanks everyone.

Regards, Steve
 
I turn a lot of bowls, many from downed trees from hurricane season. I am far from an expert, each bowl seems to have it's own set of problems. All the advice here has been right on target but the best advice is find what works for you. I turned several bowls over the weekend with no problems, then turned some spalted stuff last night that was a nightmare. Spalted wood looks great when turned but can be tough to work with.

One real good piece of advice from above, use a good DC and wear a mask. Any dust, but especially spalted dust, can be tough on the lungs.
 
Lots of good advice above.

I have turned a buncha bowls, but have just started testing the DNA method for drying green wood, anyone have any experience in this?
 
Originally posted by penhead
<br />Lots of good advice above.

I have turned a buncha bowls, but have just started testing the DNA method for drying green wood, anyone have any experience in this?


Yup

It works.

Just don't use epoxy if you use glue blocks.
 
Steve, a word of caution. I wouldn't use a spalted bowl for food. THe spalting is caused by fungus and may prove harmful if ingested. I don't use salad bowl finish on my spalted bowls for that reason... wouldn't want to waste it (it's expensive).
 
Here'a natural edge bowl a made last week from some spalted maple, courtesy of Hurricane Ivan about 15 months ago. Was a lovely tree that a neighbor lost, I've probably made 30+ bowls from it but only a few natural edge bowls. The spalting, which doesn't show much in this lousy photo, was at the perfect point of looking great but the wood was still solid. Finished with 3 coats of tung oil-


2006127121913_DSC06349.jpg
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