Antler Finish ???
- Thread starter tgraytn
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hewunch
Member
that is what i do. If the buyer wants it smooth then i fill any holes
Rob73
Member
I've only done a couple antler pens so far but I've finished them both with CA with no issues.
va3jff
Member
I've finished all the antler pens ove done (whitetail and moose) with CA. Seems to seal any of the open pores of the marrow and leaves a nice finish that of course stands up well to daily handling. Jeff
jskeen
Member
I agree, use CA to fill in holes and seal the antler. Unsealed antler can turn a rather unpleasant yellowish color if it absorbs enough hand oil and other contaminants. I sand to 320 or 400, depending on how solid the finished piece is (more solid antler, higher grit, more marrow, lower) then drip some thin CA onto the piece while sanding it. This will allow the swarf from the sanding to combine with the ca and fill in the holes. repeat with the next section of your sandpaper until the blank is smooth and all pores are filled. Then sand with the next higher grit till all scratches are gone and the blank is ready to apply the finish coats of CA. I use med CA applied with viva paper towels, several coats, then finish as any other blank.
johnnycnc
Member
A light CA to fill and seal the open/porous areas, not much "build" for me on antler,
and cut back lightly, then buff.
and cut back lightly, then buff.
arkie
Member
About like Johnnycnc, only I like a little build and shine.
CaptG
Member
Ditto exactly what Johnnycnc said.
Lenny
Member
Cut back lightly ... ??
Does that mean sand ?
I have only done 4 antler pens, all in the last few weeks. The only thing different I have done from waht has been mentioned is Plastic polish after a few coats of CA, then buff.
FireMedic4Christ
Member
I use "Fangar's Finish" on most anything I finish with CA. In a nut shell sand, fill with thin CA, sand again, fill with thick CA, sand and buff. You can find it here. http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17317
Brian
Brian
johnnycnc
Member
jskeen
Member
I don't usually sand with thin CA because it tends to set up too fast, and I end up with slurry smeared all over the surface. Medium seems to give me just enough extra time to get the slurry into the pits and grooves before it sets up.
I only use thin CA if I want it to soak into porous material and stabilize them, or if I need something to set up quickly. It also soaks through the paper towels and thermal welds them to my fingertips way too often, so I usually just apply it either with the lathe powered off and turning the material by hand so it soaks in, or if it is a round, relatively smooth surface I will use a bare fingertip to smooth it on at low speed. Plain ca is much easier to wipe off with acetone than a piece of CA soaked paper towel (and not nearly as hot).
I only use thin CA if I want it to soak into porous material and stabilize them, or if I need something to set up quickly. It also soaks through the paper towels and thermal welds them to my fingertips way too often, so I usually just apply it either with the lathe powered off and turning the material by hand so it soaks in, or if it is a round, relatively smooth surface I will use a bare fingertip to smooth it on at low speed. Plain ca is much easier to wipe off with acetone than a piece of CA soaked paper towel (and not nearly as hot).
I sand to 1200-grit and then do nothing. The antler has a natural appearance that is enhanced by the users own dirt and body oils as they use the pen. We call that a "patina".
jskeen
Member
I really wish I had gotten a couple of pictures of the antler pen I repaired for one of my customers a while back. It had a blown transmission, which was an easy fix, but I had never seen a pen so badly worn. It was at one time a satin nickle euro with the fancy centerband. and it was not just worn through the clear coat and nickel plate, the brass centerband was actually worn oval on the sides under and opposite the clip, almost to the depth of the cast details in the cb. The antler had turned a particularly unpleasant shade of yellow, and was almost oily feeling (in addition to being not particularly well turned in the first place). It was however very smooth 
I fixed him up with a black ti euro in Gemsbok horn, and a platinum one in axis antler over gemsbok. I made a point to tell him that I would be back in touch with him 6 month to a year down the road to see how they were holding up. When that happens, I will try to get some pictures.
Russ, You probably have as many pens as anybody that have been out there in use for long periods of time, have you seen much variation in the patina of antler that has been used for several years?
I fixed him up with a black ti euro in Gemsbok horn, and a platinum one in axis antler over gemsbok. I made a point to tell him that I would be back in touch with him 6 month to a year down the road to see how they were holding up. When that happens, I will try to get some pictures.
Russ, You probably have as many pens as anybody that have been out there in use for long periods of time, have you seen much variation in the patina of antler that has been used for several years?
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I was a first time vendor at a long established show three years ago when a man came in with an antler pen he had bought at the show the previous year and it looked terrible; the finish was nasty, dark and pitted. He was angry and demanded that I replace it. After I assured him that I wasn't at the show the previous year, I offered to repair and refinish the pen at no charge. After he received the pen I repaired and finished with CA he called and ordered another.