Am I missing something....stopper ???

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DaveO

DaveO

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I just got a PSI BS2 stopper kit with the screw chuck. It came with a 23/64" drill bit. The instructions state to drill a 23/64" dia. hole, 3/4" deep in the blank, and then thread the blank on the screw chuck. Sounds simple enough. I did that and the screw chucks threads didn't hold. I measured both the bit and the threads and found the threads to be only .01" greater than the bore of the bit.
Is this right, is this how they are normally turned?? OR has PSI got something screwed up with their included bit?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.
Dave:)
 
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what material are you planning on turning?
wood or acrylic?
what do you mean it didnt hold?
when i started. i took a scrap piece of wood and drilled a hole ( smaller is better as you can always make it bigger ).
try to screw in the screw chuck.
i have found that you can use a little smaller bit for most woods.
for acrylic, i use one size bigger becasue it is a harder material.
i hope this helps a little?
 
The blank was Mahogany. I didn't <u>think</u> that the threads would hold (never put it to the spin test)because the blank wouldn't tighten down to the chuck and just didn't feel like the threads were getting any bite. I ended up driving a 3/8" dowel in the hole and re-drilled smaller, and that worked. I just don't understand why what came with the kit and was in the instruction didn't feel like it would work right.
Dave[:)]
 
Dave,
I use the screw chuck with the 23/64" drill bit.. most woods will tighten up okay.. Mahogany should have been hard enough .. are you sure you didn't have any wiggle in the drill.. sometimes I will get a piece of wood that doesn't hold well, especially if the wood is soft or the hole gets ovaled a little. The little dowels that I get with my BS kits usually are actually 3/8" and have to be run through a belt sander to make the small enough to fit into the stopper. -- Now that I think about it, I got the last batch of stopper kits from CSUSA and the dowels are 3/8.. CSUSA directions call for a 3/8" bit.

I also move the tail stock up to start the stopper until I get it round... then move it away to finish the top.
 
The blank was Mahogany. I didn't think that the threads would hold (never put it to the spin test)because the blank wouldn't tighten down to the chuck and just didn't feel like the threads were getting any bite.
Click to expand...
Some softer woods won't hold too well. On them it's a good idea to use thin CA glue in the drilled hole, which strengthens the wood and holds better.
 
I can't remember the sizes I use but I tend to drill smaller in soft woods and a little larger in harder woods. I also do as Chuck does above and pull up the tail stock until time to finish the end of it. I use the SS stoppers from Ruth Niles, put in a drop of two of CA and screw in the stopper, and it's done. I have had a few strip out if the hole was too big, used a toothpick to shove in there and it allowed enough extra grip to turn it. Biggest problem is unscrewing the finished stopper from the lathe if it is too tight of a fit.

I bought my first screw chuck but realized they were standard 3/8" threads. I bought some 3/8" carraige bolts, cut off the heads, glued a nut in place about 3/4" down, slipped on a washer and glued it. Now I have about 15 of them so I can turn and then spray finish on them without dismounting from the "handle".
 
The first stopper I did I drilled the hole with the bit they sent. When I tried to put it on the mandrel it slid right over the threads. I have never used it since and have switched to a smaller bit and use a tap.
 
I don't use the PSI kit. The one I got was from AS. Did you tap it?

Are you doing the cork BS (BS2) or the chrome with silicone (BS1). When I do the Berea ones similiar to BS1 (chrome) I use an 11/32 and then tap it. I have not done any of the cork so I cannot comment on those. The larger bit might work on harder woods or acrylic. But I would think its best to use a tap still so you dont crack them. As to gluing them in I have yet to glue one. They have all been tight enough without.

There was a discussion on drill bits not being 100% accurate. Mirco yours and see if its correct.
 
Originally posted by jaywood1207
<br />The first stopper I did I drilled the hole with the bit they sent. When I tried to put it on the mandrel it slid right over the threads. I have never used it since and have switched to a smaller bit and use a tap.
Click to expand...

Jamie, that is the exact problem I am having. I know the solution is to do what you are saying. I just understand why they include a bit that isn't right and tell you to use it in the instructions. I paid for the wrong bit [:(!]

Dave[:)]
 
Originally posted by airrat
<br />I don't use the PSI kit. The one I got was from AS. Did you tap it?

Are you doing the cork BS (BS2) or the chrome with silicone (BS1). When I do the Berea ones similiar to BS1 (chrome) I use an 11/32 and then tap it. I have not done any of the cork so I cannot comment on those. The larger bit might work on harder woods or acrylic. But I would think its best to use a tap still so you dont crack them. As to gluing them in I have yet to glue one. They have all been tight enough without.

There was a discussion on drill bits not being 100% accurate. Mirco yours and see if its correct.
Click to expand...

Tom, I am using the dowel and silicon kits but they use the same screw chuck as the BS1 & 2 stoppers. I have not tried to tap it, I think that will be the way to go, using a smaller drill bit.
My first thought was that the 23/64" bit was off, so I did check it with my cailpers and it came in right at .35, and the outer dia. of the threads on the chuck were .36.
Dave[:)]
 
Originally posted by bob393
<br />Uh; it usualy works for me, was the hole deep enough,
when they bottom out they will rip out the threads.
Click to expand...

Didn't rip out the threads or bottom out. The hole was way too big and the threads on the stopper didn't even grab the wood it just slid right in.
 
For what it is worth, I was never able to get that size drill to work with the PSI Bottlestoppers. One problem that it might be is if the drill is not sharpened correctly, and a lot of the cheaper imported drills are not, then the drill bit will wobble and drill an oversize hole. I have had that problem with Harbor Freight bits till I got my Drill Doctor. On these stoppers I always use a 5/16 bit and a 3/8 x 16 flat bottom tap. If you have a great blank that you don't want to throw away, you could always drill it out to a standard size and dowel it and then redrill and tap.

Larry
 
I can think of lots of reasons that people have problems with a 23/64" bit, none of which have anything to do with the bit being too big...

1) A bent drill bit...run-out
2) The drill chuck is not seated in the drill press properly...run-out
3) Dirt or rust in the drill press' MT...run-out
4) Drill bit not seated properly in the drill chuck...run-out
5) Drill press table not absolutely square (90 degrees) to the drill bit
6) Allowing the piece to move while drilling, reaming out the hole, and making the hole oversided
7) Not tapping the drill-hole before mounting to the stopper chuck
8) The stopper chuck threads are out of tolerance. I have two stopper chucks from different suppliers that thread onto the headstock, and both are undersized...not exactly a 3/8†x 16tpi.
 
I got a 11/32" bit and using it, everything works just fine. The blanks tighten down nicely and hold well, I have to lightly sand the dowel before I glue it in, but it's a nice fit.
Turned these the other night -



00712542217_Copy%20of%20Copy%20of%20Stoppers%20005.jpg
<br />


Dave[:)]
 
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