Alternative Polishing System for Non-woods

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TonyL

TonyL

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Location
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Hi Folks:

I have posted this once before. I improved the instructions and added links to where to find the materials and some pics.

Some have asked for copies and I am having trouble with my Outlook for some reason (and need to start work).

Here you go. Call or write with questions. As I always mention, this concept was drawn from more experienced IAP turners than me. I am not the "original thinker" :smile:
 

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Wow if I calculate correctly, you have about $100 in buffing wheels on that rod. So you use the exact same buff wheel for every compound?
 
raar25 said:
Wow if I calculate correctly, you have about $100 in buffing wheels on that rod. So you use the exact same buff wheel for every compound?
Click to expand...


You are probably correct about the cost...I don't remember.

Each wheel or trio/set of wheels is with used with only one compound forever. I am sure there is some cross-contamination that takes place when moving the barrels from one stage to another, but I am fine with that.

After every few barrels I do use a rubbery sand paper cleaner/eraser, and more grossly clean and separate the buffs with a rake.

This is real nothing more than the Beall Buffing System with two more finer grit compounds added; I do not use it to apply wax as he does. I apply wax/Rejex on my lathe - just the way I do it.

It did take me 10 or so barrels with different materials to really max-out the finish. I haven't used MM or wet sanding for several months now.
 
It will take a few barrels to really achieve the full benefit. Read the instructions carefully. Although it is straight-forward process, I recorded some of the "issues" that I experienced from achieving less that "perfect" results along the entire length of the barrel (especially the ends). We will also learn what rpms and how much compound to use. In the beginning, I would start with compound rather than more and slower rpms rather that fast. You can also watch the Beal video to get some ideas.

Call or write if you have any questions.
 
Buffing wheels

Using a buffing wheel on pens.

I can not count how many times I have had my work ripped out of my hands or fingers by a buffing wheel and slung into a wall doing mach 10 ...... shattering chipping or exploding my work.......................
I still use my buffing wheels but with great caution.

One of my buffers is a commercial buffer and I use it to buff the finish on pool cues or larger pieces.

One other issue is buffing wheels create heat fast and they will buff though your finish in a heart beat.

Buffing wheels work good but shouldn't be operated if you are not focused on what you are doing .

And after I buff out a piece it is always polished with a polishing cream .
 
Great reminder MIke. I have experienced the same (as recently as Saturday), I was going slow and used a dowel to hold the barrel. It happens. Like you, I use a mild abrasive like Maguires 205 to remove any residual compound and prepare the blanks for wax or some protectorant.

Thank you Mike.
 
People and wood turners

Hi Tony.

Wished I was in GA, I would be over to Chris Hightower's shop.
Learning tons of things...........
https://www.cuesmith.com/

I like this thread, I never did care for Micro Mesh......
 
Thanks for this write up. I have been thinking about it, but I really want a third lathe for this. I have one for turning and one with the sanding jig from RHerrell. I hate to switch set-ups around!
 
You can buy a HF mini and use 6 inch wheels and 3/8 inch all thread or the midi and use 8 inch wheels. I am like you; i don't like switch out thing, although it takes about 15 seconds (and I still don't like that LOL). I am going to get another lathe just for the buffing station.
 
campzeke said:
Great write up! How does the set up cost of this system compare to a Bealls or PSI system?

Here is a PDF version for those that may not be able to open the Word file.
Click to expand...

I don't know. I don't think it was much more than the Beals. The links will bring you right to the cost of the components. Remember, I am not saying that this is better than anyone else's product or system. I am just saying that this is what is what I use to eliminate wet sanding and the need for MM - not shouting, just emphasizing.

I haven't invented the wheel or even the slinky..just experimented with the combined suggestions of others and provided a way for folks to build their own and perform this process. I only had one other buffing system and it used blue rouge. I stopped using that when I started using Maguires 105 and 205.

When I questioned Beal (nice guy BTW and a very, very smart man), about using his system with finer grit compounds, He politely asked me why I was using a 10x loop to look for scratches. Everyone has their won level of satisfaction or can achieve the same without doing what I have to do.

Well, I live in GA, so I guess I am supposed to watch the college NCS. I had no idea what this was until 4 years ago. :smile:

Signing off.
 
Oh yeah. I plan on it, but saving my pennies for a nice band saw is getting in the way of that!, Oh, and a new motorcycle in the spring....
 
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