Almost have the CA Finsih Licked

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rcflyer23

Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
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138
Location
Holly Springs, NC
Well tonight I spent some time experimenting with a blank trying to figure out how to get the look I wanted and I think I am close. I just need to pay more attention to the end of the barrels. I didn't get them totally done so they looked a little milky. I will try and get pic up later I could't find my card reader.. :( Anyway, now that I am getting close I really do think I like this finish. What is the best way to make sure the ends of the barrel turn out good?
 
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Congratulations Kevin. You will be successful. Far too often people decide they want to turn and finish a pen without taking time to know the journey of pen making. Then several months down the road - tools and materials get blamed for a series of troubles. Trial and error experience is very valuable. You are learning the steps in the journey to the end product and it will serve you well.

i purchased several dozen extra tubes for various pens and experimented with the finish, with turning, with shaping and with squaring the ends. Those were my objectives, not the finished product. I experimented with thin, medium and thick CA, with and without BLO. Applying with paper towel and also applying with an applicator.

For the record, I don't think anyone is as slow as I am. It took me around 18 months of 5 or 6 pens a week on average to master the CA. But I was determined. :biggrin:
 
Gordon said:
Hank - which of your experimental CA finishes did you finally decide to use ?
Thanks
Gordon
Click to expand...

On oily/high resin blanks such as ebony woods, and on Holly I use straight CA. On woods that seem to benefit from having the grain "popped", I rub some BLO on it, wipe it off and then use CA or CA/BLO.

If the wood is hard and I want a few thin coats of CA, I usually use CA/BLO and apply with a paper towel. The BLO helps as a mild catalyst.

On softer woods, I usually turn/sand the blank about .005 to .01 below size and build back up with a heavy coat of medium CA for strength. When doing this, it takes me longer as I have to wait on the thicker coatings of CA to cure.

I don't think this is ideal for most people, but I generally work on each pen until it is finished - meaning I don't rush it and don't time it. I am one of those people that enjoys the journey of making each pen. The result is usually worth it for me. I do realize that other people have different purposes or are under deadlines to get pens out due to commitments.

I may change my tune once I retire and have more time on my hands.
 
Thanks.. It is fun experimenting. I just started turning about a week ago and was in the mindset of turning out pens because it was fun. I quickly realized I wasn't happy just turning out pens and after 2 or 3 trips to woodcraft realized I can't afford that either. :) I have purchased a handful of tubes and I am going to do that same type of thing just glue them up and turn them to figure things out. I played with some inlaying last night just two simple stripes with the parting tool and actually filled it with a magic marker, sanded off the exta overrun and when I started the medium can on it if filled it in nicely. I was very surprised, I figured I would have a low point since there wasn't any substance in there. Now I just have to get on a couple of the sites and order tubes and then if I get something really nice I will kit it.
 
If you're not already, cut the MM into strips and number them on the back. With them being smaller, they're easier to work with.

The only reason the ends of your blanks arent looking as clean as the rest of the blank is simply because you're not sanding them as you're sanding the rest of the blank. Give that, the answer is simple; Sand to the end of the blank.

Now, the execution isnt quite as easy, but there are things you can do to make it easier. Normally we don't hit the ends of the barrels as well because we're trying to stay off the bushings. Hitting the bushings too much can stain the MM, can taint the CA, can reduce the diameter of the bushings, all sorts of bad things.

I've found the best way to be sure that the ends aren't ignored is to remove the pen after it's had a few coats of CA on and sanded to a white haze. Take the pen off the mandrel and remove the bushings. Slip on some extra bushings that have been turned down in size so that they're below the level of the CA finish but large enough to keep the pen blanks separated from each other. Now you can sand the entire blank, even to the ends, and not hit the bushings. Be careful if you wetsand though. I've had problems with water getting inside a wood blank through the ends and reaching some CA on the bottom of the finish which wasn't fully cured.

Bottom line is, you need to take whatever steps you need to take so that you hit the ends as thoroughly as the rest of the pen.
 
Kevin,
please do not lick the CA, especially if it has not cured yet.:eek:

Now as far as suggestions go, I would say do your basic CA finish until you get proficient with it then try different things. Once you are consistent with a basic CA finish then you can play around as you will be able to tell what new things give a better finish than the basic or is screwed up.

Mike
 
MLKWoodWorking said:
Kevin,
please do not lick the CA, especially if it has not cured yet.:eek:

Now as far as suggestions go, I would say do your basic CA finish until you get proficient with it then try different things. Once you are consistent with a basic CA finish then you can play around as you will be able to tell what new things give a better finish than the basic or is screwed up.

Mike
Click to expand...

Damn, Mike, I managed to refrain from the licking comment!! It scares the hell out of me that we think alike! :eek::eek::eek:
 
I kept waiting for someone to notice the licking... I was chuckling to myself when I wrote and thought about taking it off but found it to be very amusing.

Yeah I tried another blank tonight and pretty much screwed it up, not sure what I did wrong. Honestly I think I may have just been trying to go to fast since my dad is down this week and I was showing him. Yeah that's it its his fault.

I am going to turn this one down to the brass tomorrow night and clean up the brass and try it again. I am using medium CA and I am wondering if I need to move up to thick since I seem to not know what the heck I am doing. It was also cooler than last night but it was still about 70ish degrees in the shop.

It's good to find other people with the same sense of humor.

I would take a picuter to show you but I just don't think it would come through. All I can say is the seems to have some Flat or dull spots in the finish. I am trying to keep constant pressure as I am applying it. Who knows... Can you put to much BLO on there before the CA? I don't have a buffer and I am not using and Ren. wax yet as I don't want to waste it on a crappy finish. :)

So I guess there will be no licking tonight...
 
Okay quick question on that. Do I apply the thin with a paper towel as well or do I just kinda put it on the top and rotate repeat.

I need video..... I have read several times how people are doing this but I guess it just hasn't sunk in. I guess I will look out on Youtube again and see if I can find anything.
 
23, gotta question. Unless you are practicing on turning to the bushings[or not], why use tubes. Just for practice on finishing just drill with a 1/4" bit. Thick CA is best for gluing tubes when you are ready to glue them in.
 
That's a good idea.. I actually got a great finish on a blank the other night and was feeling confident and then screwed up the next fortunately I realized what I did wrong and will try and fix it next go round.
 
I've recently started using the gel thickness for CA finishes. Works great for me. I apply with the plastic baggie method, sand and polish like acrylic. The only time I go to the thin CA is when I want the texture of the wood to remain.
 
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