toolcrazy
Member
Has anybody us an air brush to spray finishes? And if you do, which one would work best. I have a small compressor, so all I would need is the air brush.
Air Brush?
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jeffj13
Member
At the present, I exclusively spray lacquer as a finish for all my pens.
I use the Harbor Freight air brush that goes on sale for $6. In fact, it is on sale right now. Works just fine.
jeff
I use the Harbor Freight air brush that goes on sale for $6. In fact, it is on sale right now. Works just fine.
jeff
alxe24
Member
Jeef. From ignorance I'll ask this question. Did you try dipping the balnks on lacquer? If you did what was your rsperience? Seems like you can get a thicker coat faster.
tipusnr
Member
I don't think the point is to get a thick coat fast but to get a consistent even drying coat that can be brought to a high gloss shine. That's one of the reasons to use an air brush. I have all the "fixins" for doing it in the shop but haven't taken the time to go through the learning curve though I have read a book on the process and watched a video from the library. Unless, you are naturally talented (great hand-eye coordination and muscle control) there IS a learning curve to this.
For me it will be another tool in the arsenal for more than just penmaking.
For me it will be another tool in the arsenal for more than just penmaking.
jeffj13
Member
No, I haven't tried dipping lacquer, although it is my understanding that some here do. Maybe they will chime in.
jeff
Blind_Squirrel
Member
RogerGarrett
Member
I use a Kremlin HTI spray gun with a compressor. This is a gravity feed, low pressure spray gun for a wide range of uses - auto, wood finish, etc. I also have an Eclipse Spray Gun for use with colored lacquers.
Picture of the Kremlin HTI:
I've found that spraying with a gun and a compressor is a very good way to move lacquer to the product - you have more control over the coat you apply, and the transfer rate is high. You also avoid messy inside tubes if you are spraying on pen blanks with brass tubes inside them.
Hope this helps.
Picture of the Kremlin HTI:
I've found that spraying with a gun and a compressor is a very good way to move lacquer to the product - you have more control over the coat you apply, and the transfer rate is high. You also avoid messy inside tubes if you are spraying on pen blanks with brass tubes inside them.
Hope this helps.
RPM
Member
I have been exclusively using an airbrush (I also use the HF cheap one) to apply enduro for about a year now with excellent results. It gives a hard durable finish that looks great. If interested, heres my process,
- sand to 400
- wipe down with DNA
- apply enduro sanding sealer with piece of paper napkin
- wipe off excess with dry paper napkin, turn on lathe and dry sealer with clean cotton rag
- MM through all grits wiping with DNA between grits
- place barrels on wooden dowels (build up with masking tape for snug fit) I made a cradle that supports the dowel that allows me to easily rotate as I spray
- airbrush with enduro cut with water, 1 part water to 4 parts enduro, you may have to play with the ratio that works for you. The enduro people recomended 15-20% water for airbrushing when I discussed process with their technical support staff. Also, I use about 30 psi of air run through a drier (also purchased at HF).
- repeat coats after 30 minutes for 3 to 4 coats total (if you get drips or dust, MM between coats)
- allow to cure for about a week and buff, wax
Results have a warm natural feel that has the high gloss of CA with no fumes, etc.
Hope this helps,
Richard
- sand to 400
- wipe down with DNA
- apply enduro sanding sealer with piece of paper napkin
- wipe off excess with dry paper napkin, turn on lathe and dry sealer with clean cotton rag
- MM through all grits wiping with DNA between grits
- place barrels on wooden dowels (build up with masking tape for snug fit) I made a cradle that supports the dowel that allows me to easily rotate as I spray
- airbrush with enduro cut with water, 1 part water to 4 parts enduro, you may have to play with the ratio that works for you. The enduro people recomended 15-20% water for airbrushing when I discussed process with their technical support staff. Also, I use about 30 psi of air run through a drier (also purchased at HF).
- repeat coats after 30 minutes for 3 to 4 coats total (if you get drips or dust, MM between coats)
- allow to cure for about a week and buff, wax
Results have a warm natural feel that has the high gloss of CA with no fumes, etc.
Hope this helps,
Richard
jacurl
Member
Richard,
What type of dryer did you get at HF? I love the Enduro, the only issue is the drying time. I think I want to try this and see how it goes.
Joe
What type of dryer did you get at HF? I love the Enduro, the only issue is the drying time. I think I want to try this and see how it goes.
Joe
RPM
Member
The dryer is inline on your compressor to ensure that moisture is taken out of the compressed air. As mentioned above, you will want to let the finish cure for about a week or so. Don't be in a rush. What's a week in the whole scheme of things. If you get a production going, you'll have something finished on an ongoing basis.
Richard
Richard
Jamie
Member
Hi, I have a Pasche, Thayer & Chandler and a Air Brush City.
I'm very happy with the Air Brush City GD100, it works as well as my Thayer & Chandler Model A, cost half as much and I got a extra needle. I got it on line, probably airbrush city.com but not sure.
I'm very happy with the Air Brush City GD100, it works as well as my Thayer & Chandler Model A, cost half as much and I got a extra needle. I got it on line, probably airbrush city.com but not sure.
wudnhed
Member
How do you clean your spray gun and do you clean between each use?
jeffj13
Member
Becca,
Yes, I clean the airbrush between each use. All I do is replace the lacquer with lacquer thinner and spray it for about 30 seconds.
jeff
Yes, I clean the airbrush between each use. All I do is replace the lacquer with lacquer thinner and spray it for about 30 seconds.
jeff
wudnhed
Member
Thanks Jeff!
cozee
Member
The Chinese airbrushes will work, and work well enough in this application. Most do not come with mediium or fine grade needles and air caps. This makes them more suited for thicker viscosity mediums.
As with any tool, one can make cheap tools work. But if I am going to use them regularly, I want a quality tool that when needed I can get parts and or service.
As with any tool, one can make cheap tools work. But if I am going to use them regularly, I want a quality tool that when needed I can get parts and or service.
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