I bought some acrylister pen blanks to try out, I tried to make 4 but after drilling the hole only 1 made it. So before I screw up the only one I managed to save can someone tell me the speeds to turn this? And any tips welcomed. I've turned acrylics so I'm hoping it's like those. Thanks! I'll attach some fidget spinner and bolt actions pens I made for a show upcoming.
Acrylister blanks
- Thread starter mrclint
- Start date
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Sharp HSS or negative rake carbide (u can really use anything as long as it is sharp). I turn it between 2300 and 3000 rpms. Just take your time and make sure chisels are razor sharp with light cuts. You will find what works for you.
JohnU
Member
And don't get it too hot turning or sanding. It has a lower melting point than commercial acrylics.
sorcerertd
Member
Acrylester makes beautiful pens, but it definitely takes patience. You can really get a glass smooth polish on it. Too bad it's such a pain to work with. I always joke that it will crack if you look at it wrong. Even a little hairline crack sticks out like a sort thumb on the finished pen, to my eye anyway.
I guess you already figured out that drilling is challenging. I just drilled one today, 400-500 RPMs, very short pecks with the bit, completely pulling it out of the blank and hitting it with water in a spray bottle to keep it cool. The blank was cut longer than needed and I did not drill all the way through, just deep enough for the tube to fit, then cut the extra length off on the table saw. I should mention that I got a good head start with a centering bit before switching to a regular jobber bit to avoid any wobble. Also, make sure your drill bit is very sharp.
After drilling, make sure the tube slides freely through the hole before you glue it up. A round file helps if it's a little tight. Use a glue that has a little elasticity to it (I like Gorilla clear). You're going to need a little give when you press the parts in.
For the actual turning, as has been said, use sharp tools and light cuts. Patience will pay off. The flying chips can be intimidating, but I suppose it's a good warning and reminder of how brittle this stuff is. One thing you can do is sand the edges round before turning. it helps a little. Once you have it rounded off, it does get easier to work with, but you still need to use light pressure cutting it. Did I mention patience?
Then there is the pressing. After all that work, with such a beautiful shine, you cant' wait to see the finished pen. Not so fast, though. This is why you want to make sure the tube wasn't too tight of a fit after drilling, and that there is a little give in the glue. Make sure the tube is perfectly clean. Even a tiny little glue or paint spot in there will cause it to expand too much and... crack! Also, make sure the pieces are properly aligned as you press or... you guessed it... crack.
Don't let this scare you away from Acrylester, or other polyester resins like "mica pearl". Trust me, I've made all of these mistakes, but the successes are worth the effort (and patience).
I guess you already figured out that drilling is challenging. I just drilled one today, 400-500 RPMs, very short pecks with the bit, completely pulling it out of the blank and hitting it with water in a spray bottle to keep it cool. The blank was cut longer than needed and I did not drill all the way through, just deep enough for the tube to fit, then cut the extra length off on the table saw. I should mention that I got a good head start with a centering bit before switching to a regular jobber bit to avoid any wobble. Also, make sure your drill bit is very sharp.
After drilling, make sure the tube slides freely through the hole before you glue it up. A round file helps if it's a little tight. Use a glue that has a little elasticity to it (I like Gorilla clear). You're going to need a little give when you press the parts in.
For the actual turning, as has been said, use sharp tools and light cuts. Patience will pay off. The flying chips can be intimidating, but I suppose it's a good warning and reminder of how brittle this stuff is. One thing you can do is sand the edges round before turning. it helps a little. Once you have it rounded off, it does get easier to work with, but you still need to use light pressure cutting it. Did I mention patience?
Then there is the pressing. After all that work, with such a beautiful shine, you cant' wait to see the finished pen. Not so fast, though. This is why you want to make sure the tube wasn't too tight of a fit after drilling, and that there is a little give in the glue. Make sure the tube is perfectly clean. Even a tiny little glue or paint spot in there will cause it to expand too much and... crack! Also, make sure the pieces are properly aligned as you press or... you guessed it... crack.
Don't let this scare you away from Acrylester, or other polyester resins like "mica pearl". Trust me, I've made all of these mistakes, but the successes are worth the effort (and patience).
sorcerertd
Member
Soooo close. You can cut the chipped part out and put an end "cap" on there
randyrls
Member
Clint; Details are important. I use a carbide round tip tool and present the tool BELOW center. Always turn from the center of the blank toward the outside. You want to guide the tool along the length of the blank. Don't press in. You should be getting endless streams of ribbons. If you are getting hard "nits" with pits in the blank, that is the problem.
With HSS tools, set the tool ABOVE center and use a skew with the bevel laid against the blank. Never touch the tip of the skew to the blank. Twisting the tool slightly will start the cut. With HSS tools you absolutely need razor sharp cutting edge. The bevel of the tool must be laying against the blank.
Exotic Blanks has many videos on YouTube showing the techniques.
https://www.youtube.com/@exoticblanks
With HSS tools, set the tool ABOVE center and use a skew with the bevel laid against the blank. Never touch the tip of the skew to the blank. Twisting the tool slightly will start the cut. With HSS tools you absolutely need razor sharp cutting edge. The bevel of the tool must be laying against the blank.
Exotic Blanks has many videos on YouTube showing the techniques.
https://www.youtube.com/@exoticblanks
Todd in PA
Member
A lot of kits have such thin walls. I don't understand why they don't design them with smaller diameter tubes.
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
Years ago, when most of these kits were designed, the emphasis was on "light" pens (weight). That led to larger tubes and less turned material. Now many of those tube diameters have become "industry standards".
FWIW,
Ed
Well I got some acrylister pens done! 
First thing I did was buy a new drill bit with the point on end and I did purchase a negative rake from PSI. Then I mounted blanks on my lathe and measured exact spot I want to drill to so I didn't blow out end, I just used tape on drill bit and drilled at 600 rpm and went very slow and cleaned out hole often. Then I turned blanks at 2550 and had no problems at all, I did a break here and there getting a drink or whatever to keep blank cool. I used everyone's advice and it went smooth thanks guys!
First thing I did was buy a new drill bit with the point on end and I did purchase a negative rake from PSI. Then I mounted blanks on my lathe and measured exact spot I want to drill to so I didn't blow out end, I just used tape on drill bit and drilled at 600 rpm and went very slow and cleaned out hole often. Then I turned blanks at 2550 and had no problems at all, I did a break here and there getting a drink or whatever to keep blank cool. I used everyone's advice and it went smooth thanks guys!
