Acrylics are hard!

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EricRN

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Just got done turning my first acrylic. I've done wood a number of times and can handle those well. But this acrylic was tough. Seemed to catch a lot more than wood, pulling big chunks out and making some ugly grooves. I eventually got it smooth but had to go back and redo stuff a lot! I'm guessing I need to sharpen my tools some, and keep my angle of attack shallow.

Sanding and polishing will have to wait until another day.
 
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EricRN

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How frequently do folks sharpen? I got some new chisels thinking they were pretty sharp out of the box. I'd turned two mahogany pens and thought I'd be good still but now I'm wondering if I need to hit them after each job.
 

TonyL

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You will "master" them as we all did. Soon you may find that acrylics are not difficult, but that wood is more forgiving.
As you stated - sharp tools (throughout the entire turning process) , the "correct" angle, etc will go a long way. If you haven't, you can try increasing the rpms to 2200 to 2600. With the real brittle tough - acrylester, etc. - I am closer to 2800 to 3000. Most importantly, you will find work works best for you. Enjoy the ride.
 

jttheclockman

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How frequently do folks sharpen? I got some new chisels thinking they were pretty sharp out of the box. I'd turned two mahogany pens and thought I'd be good still but now I'm wondering if I need to hit them after each job.

When they get dull:) Sounds like a smart aleck answer but sorry it is true and the more you turn the more you become in tune with your tools. If using HSS not all material is the same so they dull differently and everyone's idea of sharp is different. Many people have switched to carbide because they stay sharp longer. Learning to sharpen your own tools is a plus in turning. Many jigs and gadgets out there to help with this. Many different grinding wheels to choose from but many time a simple pass or two with a good quality diamond card and the tool is good to go Lot more to turning than just spinning a blank. Good luck.
 

DwightE

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I do not think that it is possible to have your tools too sharp. My grinder is just a step away it gets used often. Very seldom do I go more than 2 or 3 pens without sharpening.
 

Charlie_W

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Very few tools come sharp right from the store...most all will need sharpening to start. Are they sharp enough to shave the hair in your arm.
As for acrylics/ plastic blanks, there are many formulations and they will have different properties and some different turning techniques required. Getting comfortable with these will come with time.
 

turncrazy43

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I suggest turning the Wood craft acrylic blanks until you get your technique down. They are more forgiving than Acrylester or polyester. After you get used to those venture into the more brittle acrylester and polyester material. The easiest of all to turn are the alumilite ones.
Sharpe tools are a must. It might help getting a seasoned wood turner to give you hints on sharpening your HHS tools to get the best edges on your tools.
Keep at it and you will come up with what works best for you.
Turcrazy43
 

MRDucks2

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The first "acrylic" blank I turned was Inlace Acrylester as WoodTurningz is near Indianapolis and that is where I bought them.

Based on that experience I presumed all resin blanks were supposed to pelt your face shield with bits of shrapnel getting it round. But man it shined up nice.

Later turned an Alumilite thin blue line and was amazed at how easy it was to turn, followed by frustration at how difficult is was to polish.

There are lots of resin blanks, most of which are not actually acrylic, and all have different properties.

Once I learned to turn a pen from roughing in to finished using only a slew, I now find I may use any single or combination of tools depending on how it feels.

Varying your approach to centerline as well as angle of the tool to the blank and angle of tool on the rest can all affect the cut. (Some good and some disastrous)

Experiment, keep control of the tool, learn to be repetitive and start out taking light cuts and inspecting the results often. You will get a feel for all of them.


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WriteON

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You will get better with acrylics. Some acrylics are harder to work with than others but you'll develop the touch. As for sharpening.... somebody suggested to sharpen before you start your project. I sharpen as needed.
 

EricRN

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I suggest turning the Wood craft acrylic blanks until you get your technique down. They are more forgiving than Acrylester or polyester. After you get used to those venture into the more brittle acrylester and polyester material. The easiest of all to turn are the alumilite ones.
Sharpe tools are a must. It might help getting a seasoned wood turner to give you hints on sharpening your HHS tools to get the best edges on your tools.
Keep at it and you will come up with what works best for you.
Turcrazy43
Thanks. All my previous experience turning was on a club or school lathe ... and they kept the tools sharp. I only recently got my own lathe and the sharpening has been a bit of a learning curve. Lots of you tube!
 

TonyL

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How frequently do folks sharpen? I got some new chisels thinking they were pretty sharp out of the box. I'd turned two mahogany pens and thought I'd be good still but now I'm wondering if I need to hit them after each job.
4 to 6 times per barrel for non-wood - especially as I get close to my final passes (immediately before sanding). 2 to 4 times for wood-only blanks. I really don't keep count - it just feels like that many times. You will figure it out with experience and the type of finish that you want to achieve.
 

MRDucks2

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4 to 6 times per barrel for non-wood - especially as I get close to my final passes (immediately before sanding). 2 to 4 times for wood-only blanks. I really don't keep count - it just feels like that many times. You will figure it out with experience and the type of finish that you want to achieve.
Tony has a good point. You begin to feel the tool cutting differently and see the material respond differently, then you touch the tool up and keep going.
 

JimB

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How frequently do folks sharpen? I got some new chisels thinking they were pretty sharp out of the box. I'd turned two mahogany pens and thought I'd be good still but now I'm wondering if I need to hit them after each job.
It is unlikely they were sharp out of the box so turning 2 wood pens and then the acrylic most likely meant you had a dull tool.
 

sbwertz

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How frequently do folks sharpen? I got some new chisels thinking they were pretty sharp out of the box. I'd turned two mahogany pens and thought I'd be good still but now I'm wondering if I need to hit them after each job.
They are NEVER sharp right out of the box! I made that mistake when I was beginning, too! I have CBN wheels and give them a stroke or two every few minutes. Little chisels I hone on a diamond card with honing fluid.
 

leehljp

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There have been two kinds of sharpening mentioned - one sharpening it on a grinder or CBN wheel to the point it it is sharp! Then hone it. Honing takes the micro scratches out and makes the edge keener - as in razor sharp where you can shave the hairs on your arm. When the extra sharp edge begins to go, stop for about 10 - 15 seconds and do a double swipe across honing material and go back to turning.

I do segments often and use brass or aluminum in the wood, therefore I do the 2 - 3 swipes about 2 to 4 times on a blank.

BTW, if one gets used to SHARP and keeping it sharp, one can turn wood blanks to a smoothness that does not need sanding. Period!
 

Kenny Durrant

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I was told to keep them sharp as in never letting them et dull. If you don't let them get dull then they will be easier to sharpen and not give you the headaches of using dull tools. I'm not going to touch how to sharpen. That's a subject that has more answers than users. Find a technique that suits you and do it often. As mentioned earlier some use special grinders with special wheels then touch up with hones. I bought a variable speed grinder and put it on the slowest speed an sharpen that way. It's harder on the tool but I didn't want to spend a lot of time sharpening. I've found the angle of the point is just as important as the edge.
 

robutacion

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For acrylics I only use the negative rake carbide insert on EWT. It solves a lot of problems.


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I was going to mention these same type cutters, they really work well with resins as they do also with woods, if anything these cutters give new turners a better experience when turning cast blanks and off-course as also mentioned before by some of our members, there are a few different types of resins some harder and more brittle then others, you will learn which one you like the best as you test them.

Good luck,

Cheers
George
 

moke

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I used a skew for the total process for many years. Recently I got a negative rake cutter from Woodcraft and am absolutely in love with it! However, I use my metal lathe to take the blank close to size. I did use my skew yesterday for a blank that I did not do that with.
 

Woodchipper

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Sharpen before you think they are dull. If you move too fast across the blank, I have found on some synthetics you get little craters in the material. If I slowly move the tool they don't appear. It's a learning process- the same with any material. The avatar is a pen my grandson made for his father- lignum vita is like drilling tool steel! So...drill slowly, cool the bit and wood, try again, take your time.
 

DrD

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Negative rake R2 or negative rake round Easy Wood cutters make turning acrylics easy as pie. When it dulls - it takes a long time - just loosen the retaining screw and move to the next side or space on the circular cutter. One of the best purchases you'll ever make as a turner.
 
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