Acrylic/Brasso Question

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DKF

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After sanding, MM, White Diamond, and wax, my acrylic looks great with the exception of very, very, very fine surface scratches that can only be seen in certain light and at certain angles....Does Brasso, or as I have been reading, Turtle Wax scratch remover take care of these? Any other products I should consider. Like I said, it does look great, but upon "fine" inspection, you can see the ever so slight scratches. Thanks.
 
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I have also used the Novus #2 polish, probably similar to the Brasso. Be careful what you use to apply it - a coarse paper towel can leave its own scratches. DAMHIKT.
 
DocRon has hit on something I learned RECENTLY. Not all paper towels are created equal. And, the extrapolation - if your scratches get WORSE at the end of the process, look to the applicator for the cause.

Check the "loose ends" on your white diamond and wax wheels. A loose thread is a whip and can scratch your resin.[:D][:D]
 
IMHO, scratches that can be seen by the naked eye are best removed during the sanding process. Even though I sometimes use Turtle Wax scratch remover I believe that fine grades of sanding material, like Micro Mesh, is your best bet. The scratch remover, on acrylics, ebony-type woods, etc. just brings out that final 'pop' to the shine. It is not a cure for bad sanding. BTW, my paper towel of choice is Viva. Most of my final 'popping' is done with a hunk of wool blanket.
 
I like Brasso because it is available just about everywhere. Like has been said you must do a good job sanding. It's best you experiment yourself to see how far you have to take the sanding and then Brasso to see when the scratches disappear. I use Brasso on all synthetics, antler, tagua nut, aluminum and others.
 
Brasso and other polishing compunds improve the surface of the scratch pattern left behind from 12,000 Micro-Mesh or 2000-grit sandpaper. It will not remove the scratches that are still there from the 150-grit.
 
Instead of paper towels try using micro fiber pads found in auto-stores for appling and removing wax. Also they are a lot cheaper than paper towels. I hae used one side of a pad for about fifty pens.
 
I use paper towels when doing the CA, but I switch to T-shirt material when moving on to the polishing compounds. I buy them in a bag at Lowe's.
 
We've heard it before but if you use cloth cut it up to small pieces and do not wrap cloth around your fingers. It can get caught and take your finger with it. I have and use a product from work called "Kimwipes". Not cheap unless you "borrow" them from work.
 
Originally posted by DKF
<br />After sanding, MM, White Diamond, and wax....
Click to expand...
I was always taught that one removed the previous sanding grit scratches with the current grit before moving on to the next finer grit. If you start out with 220 then on to 320 and 400 and still have scratches from the 220, don't count on the 600 or higher grits to remove all of the scratches because they are too deep.

If, after sanding all the way up through micromesh then hitting the buffing wheel with white diamond you still have scratches, I would suspect a clogged buff or you are using too much force on the buffing wheel. Have you tried changing the buffing wheel?

George
 
Thanks all for your input.....I was able to get it and it was a combination of the Brasso and some very light White Diamond buffing....that seems to have taken care of it....
 
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