A Kitless Blank

[iamrohn]

I [temporarily perhaps] abandoned my quest of gluing Mylanta plastic (HDPE) and instead turned to more easier to work with materials. This is the first time I've tried a soda pop can as accents... it was a lot easier to use, though I think I might go two or even three layers thick for future blanks.

I had this brass tube (Gatsby) available, but I don't have a kit to fit it currently. I think it's asking for something chrome heavy.

The pattern/design is patterned (copied?) from a Steve Kondo blank I saw on Turner's Warehouse's site. His is, of course, a lot more refined.

I think I like this one... the enlargement of the photo shows a lot more blemishes than you can see in person. This one was a very looooong ride. I made a number of stupid mistakes (including messing up the order of the pattern as I glued and needing to recut). My jigs aren't improving much yet, but I'm learning to use a lot more notes than I had, and keeping them right at hand on the gluing table
I'm sure there's an easier way, but my approach so far has been to glue two sections together, drill them so that I can square them, then glue on another, drill it and square it, etc.

(it reminds me of a sailboat for some reason)

I'm getting near the usable bottom of the grab bag of acrylic cutoffs purchased from Woodcraft, I might have two maybe three challenges left before I replenish (or get very challenged!).

 

[iamrohn]

This is the Steve Kondo blank I used as inspiration (copied)

 

[magpens]

That is a very nice looking blank !!!

The aluminum layer is thinner than in the Steve Kondo blank, but I think it is OK the way it is. . You seem to have done a very good job of incorporating the aluminum into your blank

I think you will find it hard to double up on the pop can aluminum. . I could be wrong, but there might be a problem getting the double thickness to look right. . My hunch is based on the fact that the pop can aluminum starts off curved and you have to flatten it. . I worry that there might be wrinkles that will show in a double layer.

What is the beige colored material in your blank ?

 

[iamrohn]

Thanks @magpens ! And thanks for accepting it not as an actual pen yet

The beige sections are the only wood in the blank and I think it's maple... something I found in our extras drawer. There's not a lot there to really identify.

Incidentally you gave me the idea to do the blue segment's V's as a solid piece instead of cutting it in half and then doing the angle to each half (does that make sense?) by asking if I had done that in a prior pen I made - https://www.penturners.org/threads/you-cant-fail-if-you-dont-try.165314/post-2078077 Now I guess you're giving me the urge to do a double layer soda can

 

[iamrohn]

in this photo you can see the effort in-progress of trying to shave off fingernail thick slices to get the angle, and height, of both sides of the V correct. This is, without any doubt, not the right way to do this I am quite certain.

 

[mark james]

Wonderful blank! I think it turned out very nicely. And trust me when I saw that as segmenters' we know the flaws in every blank we construct; but, I see no flaws - all looks great.

Be well and thanks for sharing. When you can do this, there is no need to buy.

 

[leehljp]

Great blank and I like the way your mind thinks!

 

[KenB259]

Great job on this blank. I would nix the idea though of layering aluminum. I believe the layers will show and you're just adding more possibilities of a failure. You can easily get aluminum in .025, .032, .040, etc.


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[TLTHW]

Scotch Weld DP-8005 and DP-8010 are both adhesives for HDPE. Last time I bought them they were about $45 per cartridge and you would need to buy the applicator gun ($35) and spare nozzles ($1 each) HDPE also does not sand well, but it can be cut and scraped with sharp tools. You can also clean the fuzz off it with heat guns or open flames much like acrylic.

 

[Aces-High]

HDPE is chemically resistant to adhesive. The scotch weld is the only one I have head of.

 

[TLTHW]

HDPE is chemically resistant to adhesive. The scotch weld is the only one I have head of.

I found that the scotchweld worked ok for static assemblies. We would use fasteners or weld it if the assembly would be handled or subject to impact or dropped.