A couple bowls and a plate

[holmqer]

Cherry plate made from a slab off of a friends sawmill. Finished with Waterlox.

American Red Gum bowl with a nice inclusion to add character. Finished with Waterlox.

Bigleaf Maple Burl Bowl. Went back to a form I have not made in a while, this is the first Ogee profile I've turned this year. I used to use this form a lot, but for some reason stopped. Finished with Waterlox.

 

[Fred]

WOW, WOW, and, WOW. I like them all and believe you have done a very good job!

 

[Pen_Turner_297]

You've done a great job on all of them.I've got to hit the shop and turn a few myself.Lately i've been turning lidded boxes.Thanks for showing your work.

 

[LEAP]

Hey Eric,

Nice as always!

With the Waterlox do you use the sealer first or go straight to the final finish?
Ive been using straight tung oil on my cherry bowls but it takes four of five coats before I can get a shine. Though I'd give the waterlox a try.
Thanks,

 

[holmqer]

Hey Eric,

Nice as always!

With the Waterlox do you use the sealer first or go straight to the final finish?
Ive been using straight tung oil on my cherry bowls but it takes four of five coats before I can get a shine. Though I'd give the waterlox a try.
Thanks,

While I will use some nitrocellulose sanding sealer, I always sand it off. I use it to help sand the end grain spots when I am struggling with tear-out.

Depending on the wood, I'll sometimes put on one coat of oil like Bush oil (BLO based) on and let cure for a few days before Waterlox.

For woods that I expect to be real finish sponges, I'll put on some oil. So the Red Gum which always seems capable of absorbing huge quantities of finish will get oil first.

Similarly, if I want a big color shift, I'll use one coat of Bush oil before Waterlox. In the case of this Cherry, it was already dark so I skipped oil and went strait Waterlox.