A ca Experiment

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Ankrom Exotics

Ankrom Exotics

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Joined
Jun 23, 2008
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Location
Centerville, Iowa, USA.
Thought I'd experiment with something on this one. I've noticed that the white diamond buffing compound is pretty effective at removing scratches so I wanted to see how it did at removing the fine ridges of ca left behind by the paper towels I apply it with.

I decided not to sand the ca after several applications and take it straight to the buffing wheel.

Blanks were sanded to 1000 followed up with micromesh to 12000 and cleaned with Denatured Alcohol.

Finish is 3 coats thin ca followed up with 3 coats medium ca. Micromesh to 6000. 3 more coats medium ca. I tried to keep the ridges to a minimum (thickness, not quantity).

I buffed the ridges out with white diamond (Beall wood buff) and assembled. It took a few minutes to buff out the ridges but I'm pretty happy with the results.

Here it is: Gold plated 'Olympian' from PSI. The blank is one of Curtis' "Worthless Wood" (Mescalbean or Mesquite, I believe).


PICT0026.jpg



PICT0033.jpg



Critiques and comments are always welcome.

Thanks for looking
 
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Looks great!

One tip... I also hit up those blanks with white diamond after the 12,000 mm, but before CA application... I can never seem to effectively remove all fine scratches (especially noticeable on dark resins), so the white diamond takes care of that... then I clean with CA accelerator. Then apply CA. Ensures a glass smooth surface under the finish.

- Joe
 
I can foresee a number of tiny cracks with inexperienced ad hoc buffers caused by excessive heat using some extra sensitive timbers especially like Ebony, Snakewood, Pink Ivory and other touchy feely timbers. Twice today I have issued warnings however did I find this out?

Have fun fellas and girls, be safe near those buffs, I have heard of unidentified flying objects.

Regards Peter.
 
I have been playing with this "plastic polish" stuff and it works wonderfully on CA, but I personally think that if you want a superb finish on a pen then you really need to invest the added time it takes to get that "glass" shine. Take the few extra minutes to MM to 12000 and use you white diamond and plastic polish. So many say that those take you back a few steps in the sanding but I cant tell. And I have a picky eye when it comes to the CA Finish.
 
seamus7227 said:
I have been playing with this "plastic polish" stuff and it works wonderfully on CA, but I personally think that if you want a superb finish on a pen then you really need to invest the added time it takes to get that "glass" shine. Take the few extra minutes to MM to 12000 and use you white diamond and plastic polish. So many say that those take you back a few steps in the sanding but I cant tell. And I have a picky eye when it comes to the CA Finish.
Click to expand...


I wasn't trying to save any time here. If anything I spent more time buffing out the ridges than I would've spent MM'ing them out. I was merely experimenting and sharing the results.
 
Pat & Lynn:

I have a question. Using medium CA with BLO seems to work real well for me but there are times when I desire to use thin. The issue preventing me from doing this is that it is too quick for me AND what would one use to apply the stuff. Paper winds up being the unintended part of the project. Another area is to apply cigar labels to a blank that has been sanded and has about three coats of CA/BLO on it.

In short, how or what means are you using to apply THIN CA.??

Clueless in Conroe,

John & Mary.
 
John,

I use thin only and I use paper towels only...I apply my ca directly to the wood and wipe down and back...that's all.

Lots of people use the little baggies that the pen parts come in and that also does a fine job.

Grub
 
I use paper towels, too. I fold it several times and apply a heavy 'line' of ca to one of the points at a corner. I make one pass only and feed the line of ca as I progress across one half of the blank. I repeat the process for the other half. I only use 2-3 coats of thin to seal the fine, open grain.
 
grub32 said:
John,

I use thin only and I use paper towels only...I apply my ca directly to the wood and wipe down and back...that's all.

Lots of people use the little baggies that the pen parts come in and that also does a fine job.

Grub
Click to expand...
Dumb question, I am assuming that the lathe is spinning at a low rpm, correct? You wouldn't draw a line and then start the lathe and then use the towel, right?
 
I usually do something similar... I wet sand with the first MM pad(1800?) then go with tripoli and white diamond. I like the way it turns out, and I can tell a difference relative to going all the way through the MM.

Beautiful pen, BTW.
 
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