2nd best blank squaring jig yet!

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Mack C.

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I've been reading with interest airborne r6's thread re: the best blank squaring jig yet.

I've used this method for well over a year now, and am left wondering do I need a jig. My blanks are always square to the tube and thusly to the pen parts.

I made a jig similar to that one some time ago (used a tutorial that's in the library). The difficulty I saw with it was having to take the blank from the pin it was on to see if I had reached the tube yet. i.e. having to remove the jig from the sander each time.

By my method I can easily remove the blank to see if I have reached the blank yet.

The mitre guage is square to the sanding disc, as is the table square to it as well. The blank has been turned to a consistent roundness.

Am I missing something here? Your comments would be appreciated!
 

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Justturnin

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I think they are both pretty neat ideas. I would say the best way would be the way that works best for the individual. I saw a video on here where the guy squared the parts up on the lathe w/ his skew. I don't think I would try that but he did it no problem. I still use a mill.........:tongue:
 

Carl Fisher

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That only works if you've turned the blank down to be true to the tube.

The other methods square the tube to the face of the sander and allow you to get a true square to the tube before turning. I prefer not to have to turn, remove and square and then go back to turning. I'd rather square it first personally, but as anything else in this endeavor there's almost as many ways to do something right as there are people doing it.
 

airborne_r6

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This looks great to me, and Chris said it great, the best way is what works for the individual. I made my jig because I felt it would be easier to adjust a jig to square than to adjust the table to square, and I definitely don't trust my turning ability enough to turn the blank perfectly straight.
 

Mike D

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I've been reading with interest airborne r6's thread re: the best blank squaring jig yet.

I've used this method for well over a year now, and am left wondering do I need a jig. My blanks are always square to the tube and thusly to the pen parts.

I made a jig similar to that one some time ago (used a tutorial that's in the library). The difficulty I saw with it was having to take the blank from the pin it was on to see if I had reached the tube yet. i.e. having to remove the jig from the sander each time.

By my method I can easily remove the blank to see if I have reached the blank yet.

The mitre guage is square to the sanding disc, as is the table square to it as well. The blank has been turned to a consistent roundness.

Am I missing something here? Your comments would be appreciated!

I agree with you to a point. I use your method as long as the blank is square to the tube but when using blanks that are not perfectly square like deer antler or some wood blanks I use a sanding jig. The one I posted last week works very well and as others have said what works best for the individual is the best method but there are variables to consider so there really isn't one jig thats best for all just whats best for the individual.
 

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skiprat

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These snazzy jigs are all fine and well, but IMNSHO the VERY best squaring proceedure was shown fairly recently. I honestly can't remember who posted it, but it was stupidly simple and 100% foolproof for ANY tubed blank. If anyone remembers it then please post a link. :wink:

I consisted of a transfer punch in the tailstock chuck and a sanding disc in the headstock. Simply slide the blank along the punch onto the disc. :biggrin:

So simple, I can't understand why no-one else had already posted it.:confused:
 

Carl Fisher

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I'd have to dig through my posts, but I posted that setup some time back...

Edit, here you go. The only difference between when I originally posted this and now is that I use my collet chuck to hold the sanding disc. Otherwise this is the method I use 99% of the time.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f30/my-new-squaring-method-94962/

No real reason for the shape other than playing around.
 
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Carl Fisher

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To save some time, I'll still hit up the disc sander until I just touch any part of the tube using a low grit paper, then I'll true it up on the lathe with some 120 or so. So it's really the best of both worlds.
 

Mack C.

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This may work if you don't have a taper on your blank
Hi Rick; Yes I understand that, but something else that occurs to me using my method is the drilling of the tubes must be perfectly parallel to the sides of the blank.

I do all my drilling on the lathe but at times, not often there is some wobble and the tube may not be perfectly in the centre of the blank or perfectly parallel to the sides!

But that's another matter!
 
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HF punch, HF faceplate, tailstock chuck, and some self stick sandpaper. Simple and easy. And cheap. Get a couple faceplates, and you can use different grits for different materials, and get a clean edge.

image-3687334564.jpg
 
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