Router Lifts

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jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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Ok I believe it is time I need to improve on my router table. I have been doing all this reorganizing and cleaning of the shop and spending some $$ in doing it so I think I need to just throw in a little more ( heck I seen these prices and they are not little) But I would like to change to a lift system on my router table. I have the basick table that most probably do with adjustable fences and drop in insert that hld router. Right now and for years I have been using a plunge router that I have to reach under to turn the knob to raise and lower the bit. have to pull the insert out to change the bits. Would like to step up my game.

So question to the masses here. If you use a lift, what type do you have and brand and what router are you using with it. I want to get a good quality one. Buy once and cry once as they say. I have a ton of routers and am sure I can match a router to a lift. Just need to find a good lift. I am not buying a whole new table. Thank you.
 
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I second the Jessem lift. I use it with a 1/2" porter cable router (the popular model, forget what it is). I went with the "cheaper" phenolic plate vs the aluminum plate. Have not had any issues with it.
 
I second the Jessem lift. I use it with a 1/2" porter cable router (the popular model, forget what it is). I went with the "cheaper" phenolic plate vs the aluminum plate. Have not had any issues with it.
Yea I have been using the phenolic plate now for quite a few years and have had no trouble. In fact was using the router this morning. I will look into them. Not sure if they have different models but would go with upgrade one. Like to hear from others.
 
Started looking at the Jessem lifts I see there are different models. What is the difference and what one is everyone using? Also does anyone have the Incra lift. How does that rate against the Jessem.? looks like a little different style.
 
Hi JT,

When I bought my first heavy duty router I went for the Triton 3.25 HP model. One deciding factor for me was the built in rack and pinion height adjustment system they use. Not only can the height be set with a knob on the side, it can also be set by using a crank handle from the bottom (included). I already had the Kreg router table and fence so all I had to do was to drill a hole in the drop in top for the crank handle to fit through and viola - instant router lift without needing to mess with separate router lift hardware.

I did add a separate switch so I don't have to power it on and off by reaching under the table.

These Kreg Setup Bars have also really helped a lot.

Whatever you wind up with I'm sure that you will really appreciate having a lift system.

Dave
 
When I built my router table, I wasn't willing to shell out for one of the JessEm or Rocker lifts. Maybe that was a mistake, but... I have been happy with my decision (though I don't use the router table that much).

I built my own lift. It is based on a decades old design from Woodsmith. Steve Ramsey of Woodworking for Mere Mortals did a YouTube video on his build 13 years ago. One of the important details is getting the 16TPI rod from McMaster-Carr so that one rotation of the adjustment is exactly 1/16" change in height.

Here is my build...

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I have at least 10 or 12 routers so finding one to fit a lift will not be a problem. Right now I have a large plunge router that is in my table and as I said I have to crank from the bottom. It really is not that big of a problem and I use my router table alot. I want accuray. I want ease of use and just feel now is the time for a lift. Will not make anything like that because I want accuracy. The way they machine those things and the hefty price I believe they are well built. Plus I want to be able to lock the travel so I do not get any creep due to vibration from the router. I have a table similar to the one Dave is showing but they all seem to come that way. It is a matter of how they lock the fence down and from where. Mine is 2 clamps under the table so the fence can adapt to just about any table. Again that is not a problem. Every time I want to change the bit I have to take out of the opening and crank the handle down enough to get my wrench on it. That is the annoying part. I have a set of set up bars that I use for router and tablesaw. As I organize all that stuff will put in a proper place so easy to find. I am so close to getting the shop set up the way I wanted to be able to free myself up to do some cool projects. Have to make a bunch of new push sticks because the old ones have seen alot of sawing time and are dangerous these days. keep the comments coming and I love photos. Thanks all.
 
I have the Incra Mast-R-Life 2. Its actually a JessEm life, but with magnetic insert rings. I use it with the JessEm router motor. Great system but on the pricy side....
 
I have the Incra Mast-R-Life 2. Its actually a JessEm life, but with magnetic insert rings. I use it with the JessEm router motor. Great system but on the pricy side....
It is the one I am looking at. I have asked this question on a couple sites and that lift has come up many times. Highly recommended. Where did you buy from?
 
I have the Incra Mast-R-Life 2. Its actually a JessEm life, but with magnetic insert rings. I use it with the JessEm router motor. Great system but on the pricy side....
This is the one I have. The magnetic inserts sold me and I absolutely love the lift and the inserts.
 
Count me in as another Jessem Master-Lift user. Mine is built into a sliding top I made from scratch which slides in and out of my principal workstation - which also holds a number of other tools I use. I also came upon a clearance priced enclosure box for the router which has a dust port in it, so the router hangs from the Jessem and is fully surrounded by the steel enclosure. Adding dust collection on the top built into the shop made guides significantly reduced the dust problems with the router, but it still makes a mess. 5 stars for the Jessem.

Below the router, I built a slide out set of trays that hold all my router bits in the Rockler router bit storage inserts drilled into the sliding tray. An external power switch completes the setup. My first router in it was a large Triton 3 hp model, later replaced by a larger Porter Cable. No matter which router you choose be sure it supports different sized collets so you can use appropriately sized bits with strong shanks. One hint I got from someplace was to not let the bit bottom out in the router collet - I put a small rubber donut into the router shaft hole that stays there giving the bits some expansion room as they heat in use.

This whole assembly replaced an old hand made router table made from plans by Norm Abrahms years ago - but my new downsized shop didn't have space for the freestanding table, so went with the upgraded plate in the roll-out draw. Works fine!

Kevin
 
I would suggest getting these clean sweep inserts too, if you have a dust box on your table. They're a game changer.
 

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