wade45
Member
Well, this makes things a whole lot more interesting.
Rubber ER32 Collet
- Thread starter wade45
- Start date
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wade45
Member
Finished parts that need to be reworked. Or touched up
KMCloonan
Member
where did you get the rubber collet?
wade45
Member
I made it.
I designed a few to hold the shapes I needed and also a few standard sizes.
I designed a few to hold the shapes I needed and also a few standard sizes.
Looks to me like it may have been 3D printed with TPU. If so, I'd love to know where you found the 3D model file.
Hmm, pretty good idea. When I have a need, I have been wrapping the part in blue painters tape, just one time around and so far so good.
I like the idea though.
wade45
Member
TPU is too soft for longevity.
KMCloonan
Member
I have been pretty lucky so far, and just slid the piece into the closest size collet, then did the repair or touchup. When I remove the piece, I touch up the finish and buff if needed. But a nice protective rubber ring sounds like a great idea.
wade45
Member
Blue tape is what I have used but cad design and printing is free.
What material did you print them with?
wade45
Member
I did a TPU and rubber like resin from elegoo.
NT_2112
Member
The idea could have potential.
I have designed collets in CAD and 3d printed them.
I made this one years ago in PLA on my old ender 3 printer for square blanks
I haven't had access to lathes for a while but I have a new desktop CNC on order.
I might revisit 3d printing collets in something like TPU and see how that works.
TPU is a flexible filament. ^
I have designed collets in CAD and 3d printed them.
I made this one years ago in PLA on my old ender 3 printer for square blanks
I haven't had access to lathes for a while but I have a new desktop CNC on order.
I might revisit 3d printing collets in something like TPU and see how that works.
TPU is a flexible filament. ^
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wade45
Member
TPU works great as far as grip it's the longevity that I'm concerned with.The idea could have potential.
I have designed collets in CAD and 3d printed them.
I made this one years ago in PLA on my old ender 3 printer for square blanks
I haven't had access to lathes for a while but I have a new desktop CNC on order.
I might revisit 3d printing collets in something like TPU and see how that works.
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TPU is a flexible filament. ^
I love the square idea
NJturner
Member
Looks interesting! I'm not sure that I would use it much - also a blue tape user - but I'd give it a try. Share the STL?
Kevin
Kevin
wade45
Member
super guy and great products Rubber Chucky
NT_2112
Member
I've got the files available on my Patreon. I also can print them in TPU or PLA on demand for $ if someone wants one and doesn't have a 3d printer.
NJturner
Member
I am sorry - I didn't realize your post was a camouflaged advertisement for your firm's products.
Kevin
There are MANY 3D model files out there on sites that openly share 3D model files. A quick google search yielded several sites that have the 3D models for ER32 collets. I won't choose and share one here as I haven't tried printing one (yet).
Once you have the files, making one with a square or other internal shape shouldn't be too difficult.
Once the excitement of the Holidays passes (currently have guests in town), I'll try printing one or two of them.
Once you have the files, making one with a square or other internal shape shouldn't be too difficult.
Once the excitement of the Holidays passes (currently have guests in town), I'll try printing one or two of them.
wade45
Member
Kevin,
I don't sell them or products from my work. That is a deal that I have made to be able to do projects on company time.
If this came across as an advertisement that was not my intention.
As David said, there are lots of free sites out there that may have something you can use.
Wade
So, I downloaded a couple STL files for an ER32 collet. I decided to do a 15-16mm since that is a close equivalent to a 5/8" which is what all of my mandrels from Rick Herrell (@rherrell) are and that would give me something true to check for runout with.
The first one I printed was kind of a bust because I didn't notice that the inner diameter of the collet wasn't 16mm all the way through. I have no idea why someone would design it that way, but oh well...
The second one was better, 16mm all the way through. One thing I find interesting is that both designs are 6 lobes and all of my ER32 and ER40 collets are 8 lobed (see photo).
Here they are left to right, steel, 16mm all the way through, and not 16mm all the way through.
They look good, are printed with PLA (just for a quick test) with 4 walls and 25% infill, which means they are almost solid PLA. Each one took about an hour to print.
When I went to check for runout, it was just over .009".
After doing the tappity tap tap that Rick Herrell recommends to get rid of the runout, I was able to get it down to about .0015". Not bad.
My concern is that this material is not robust, and a softer rubber type material like TPU, or even TPU 95A which is much more rigid would most likely deform/flex if any force of turning, sanding, polishing was applied to it, which would result in significant runout.
My conclusion is that while I really like the concept, I'm just not sure where I would actually use them in my process, or even in trying to fix an issue. Caps, Barrels, and Sections can all be put back on a mandrel even after final polishing.
The first one I printed was kind of a bust because I didn't notice that the inner diameter of the collet wasn't 16mm all the way through. I have no idea why someone would design it that way, but oh well...
The second one was better, 16mm all the way through. One thing I find interesting is that both designs are 6 lobes and all of my ER32 and ER40 collets are 8 lobed (see photo).
Here they are left to right, steel, 16mm all the way through, and not 16mm all the way through.
They look good, are printed with PLA (just for a quick test) with 4 walls and 25% infill, which means they are almost solid PLA. Each one took about an hour to print.
When I went to check for runout, it was just over .009".
After doing the tappity tap tap that Rick Herrell recommends to get rid of the runout, I was able to get it down to about .0015". Not bad.
My concern is that this material is not robust, and a softer rubber type material like TPU, or even TPU 95A which is much more rigid would most likely deform/flex if any force of turning, sanding, polishing was applied to it, which would result in significant runout.
My conclusion is that while I really like the concept, I'm just not sure where I would actually use them in my process, or even in trying to fix an issue. Caps, Barrels, and Sections can all be put back on a mandrel even after final polishing.
