Best paper for label casts?

I am going to be making some label casts for some pens for a friend. I haven't done a lot of label casting, however, I did not like the papers I tried out last time (well over a year ago now, maybe more than that.) I am curious, what the best paper options are for label casting, from a few angles I guess. I'm looking for good quality, or optimal results, across all of these:

* Print quality
* Edge/Seam fit
* Resin compatibility

The labels I used last time, seemed to bleed a bit, and the image quality was not great. I also felt like the edges of the paper, didn't fit up well with each other. Maybe that is a cutting technique factor, more than a native paper edge factor, but it is one that I didn't care a lot for last time I tried this.

Then there is resin compatibility, wherein, the paper doesn't hold air or inks smear when cast in resin. I had a bit of air in the label fibers last time I think. It was more of a matte-ish paper, I figure something smoother or more satin might work better?

There's been several threads on this subject. I'll add some photos of what I've used. You mentioned the way the edges matched up. Are you using a butt joint for the seam? I always overlap the seam. That way I don't have to worry about an exact fit and having problems if it's not perfect. What I do is paint the tube white since that's the color of the label. That way the brass won't have a chance to show through or dull the label. Then I'll put a coat of Elmers over the paint. The label seems to stick better IMHO. Print the image and let the ink dry. Then I'll put a light coat of clear over the image to seal the ink. Stick the label on the tube and put a light coat of Elmers to seal the label to the tube. That way the seam won't want to try to lift. I use Alumilite Clear slow to cast the blank. I've been really pleased with the results. Good luck.

Thanks for the informative response, @Kenny Durrant. I guess, I have gone with butt joints in the past. I tend to try and have seamless edges (which I haven't quite mastered yet). I'll have to reengineer the seamlessness to accommodate overlap, I think.

The vinyl sticker paper, though, is perfect.

One thing I don't quite understand...once the label is wrapped onto the tube, you then coat the whole label in elmer's/white glue again?

I used to apply water slide decals to fishing rods. Over sprayed with Krylon Fixatif spray.

You're welcome. I do put a coat of Elmers over the label after I wrap it around the tube. The reason is that in the past I've had the resin attack the adhesive on the label and the edge lifted up. It's just a precaution for me.

I use weatherproof labels …. https://exoticblanks.com/products/w...-ink-jet-printers?_pos=2&_sid=ee93def8b&_ss=r

I just Print, cut to size and leave a 3/16" overlap, stick to unpainted brass tubes, and cast with no issues. Once they are stuck down, there's no repositioning them so if you mess up, you have to use another printed label. These are for ink jet but there are also specific labels made for laser jet.
They are very easy to use. Also, I use MS Word to position my images and print with the setting on "High Quality".

JohnU said:

I use weatherproof labels …. https://exoticblanks.com/products/w...-ink-jet-printers?_pos=2&_sid=ee93def8b&_ss=r

I just Print, cut to size and leave a 3/16" overlap, stick to unpainted brass tubes, and cast with no issues. Once they are stuck down, there's no repositioning them so if you mess up, you have to use another printed label. These are for ink jet but there are also specific labels made for laser jet.
They are very easy to use. Also, I use MS Word to position my images and print with the setting on "High Quality".

Click to expand...

Thanks for the paper option. John. I know you do a lot of label cast stuff. I use an inkjet printer, and I have wondered about the fastness of the ink under the resin. Do you do anything to protect the ink?

Nope, the paper is made to hold the ink so there's no sealer needed. It definitely changed how we used to do it.