Buffing

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Wheaties

Wheaties

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Omaha, NE
I've never "buffed" anything before, but would like to get the set up (not necessarily for pens). What's the run down on what I need? I was thinking I would just do it on my lathe. Do I need a different wheel for each compound? What compounds do I need?

Thanks in advance for any help!
Zach
 
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You NEED white diamond, Tripoli is nice to have too, SOME use wax on the final wheel

Yes, each wheel must be dedicated to one compound.

Yes, the lathe will work. I have a dedicated lathe, with 3/8" threaded rod holding the three wheels (8-10").
 
You need something to spin the wheel.
Drill press perhaps?

Old motor mounted on a table?

Or

You can buy the buffing wheels and use a power drill while the material is spining on the lathe I guess


But this method is more difficult to control the abrasion on the material.

I got nothing

Manny
 
Wheaties said:
So do Buffing Adaptors have an hole for the buffing wheel to screw into? That's what it looks like from the pics.
Click to expand...

yeah they do. This allows you to have some extension away from the headstock.

Also with the adapter screwing onto the lathe you don't have to worry about the wheel walking as you do with a taper set up.
 
I use my drill press (don't use it for drilling anymore , I drill on the lathe) and 6" buffing wheels I buy at Home Depot . I have several wheels , one for each compound and one for metals and a clean one for final buffing after waxing . Each wheel cost under $10 with a nut and bolt for the arbor .
 
My furnace has cooperated in the past. No, they are regular motors that power a squirrel cage. I believe they are 1750 rpm.

If you are looking for one, I'd try the HVAC (for you southern guys, this is the person who WOULD repair your FURNACE, if you ever turned the damned thing ON!!) guy. If he replaces a furnace, he will replace the fan, regardless of the condition of the motor (very good in my case).
 
Will and old grinder work? Remove the stones, replace with buffing wheels.
I bought some months ago with that in mind and have never gotten around to checking it out. Maybe tomorrow ... or next week ... =0)
 
Also, how do you attach the wheels that don't come with and arbor already attached? Is there some sort of adapter?
 
1. You do need a wheel for each compound used, and a separate wheel for metals if you polish them -- for example, if you buff brass shell cases, a wheel just for brass (and one for every grit/product which will have a brass case used with it). Metal turns black and will color wood!!!

2. There are many different kinds of wheels depending on use. Sewn muslin wheels are comon for metal. I use loose muslin for tripoly and white diamond and Flannel for waxes (you may want a different wheel if you use several different waxes such as colored waxes).

It is all adaptable from 2 inch bowl bobs to 10 inch multi mount wheels. Bigger the wheel the more surface feet per minute for the same rpm. Hang on tight with big wheels.

Lightly (very lightly) apply compound. Most over do it badly at the start and leave a ugly film, or push overly hard and strip the finish. Practice before using an many hour special piece. Try polishing bare wood.

Jerry Beall and yo-yo spin have videos showing how to use this kind of gear.

I use beall goblet buffs (2 inch) and Don Pencil bowl buffs for everything -- they have a 3/8 by 16 screw shaft that threads into a fitting on a variable speed motor (old 3/4 by 16 headstock with variable speed and a 3/8 by 16 female fitting on the end.)

I have a Don Pencil 1 1/4 by 8 adapter for the big lathe to do larger stuff when needed, but prefer the old headstock.

Use plain carnuba wax or ren wax for most things. Special waxes mean a special buff dedicated to that wax. If you see a haze -- too much wax on the buff.



This is not hard
 
It depends on the material being buffed as to what wheels and compounds are used and in which combination. The size also matters, again, depending on material, because the larger the wheel, the faster the edge travels(higher speed). Speed equals rapid heat build up. Avoid heat as much as possible.
Buffing can be done on a lathe, if you like changing set ups all the time. It's best to have a dedicated motor. As Ed mentioned, any motor will work, just get an arbor to fit the shaft. Make sure the wheel spins toward you!!
Getting a catch is pretty dangerous, so avoid those. They also make choice words fly around.
Don't use much pressure, the compound does the cutting, not the wheel. This too will create heat build up. Use the cut and color strokes for best performance.
Buffing doesn't replace the sanding process.
That's not everything to know, but will get you started.
Good luck and be safe...
 
Don't think that those compounds can replace Tripoli and WR. They are finer grit and you will still need to do a progressive finish. Those type of compounds are for polishing only as a final finish.
If you don't follow a progressive system, you will not be satisfied because the scratches will still show.
Instead of investing in these plastic polishes, just use cornstarch. Very inexpensive and just as good.
If done properly, there will be no difference between the WR and any further polishing to the naked eye. I will put anything I've done with WR up against anything someone wants to do with anything past that point.
 
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