losing pieces when pen turning

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Harris

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Joined
Oct 26, 2009
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Location
Kalama, WA
I just am turning my first two pens and seem to be doing ok until turning. I have gotten the pieces to round shape but when I almost get to the bushing, a piece blasts off and I'm left with a tube. I'm using a Ci type tool that cuts very well. The wood is black walnut. Help please

Harris
 
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Harris said:
I just am turning my first two pens and seem to be doing ok until turning. I have gotten the pieces to round shape but when I almost get to the bushing, a piece blasts off and I'm left with a tube. I'm using a Ci type tool that cuts very well. The wood is black walnut. Help please

Harris
Click to expand...

a piece blasts off and I'm left with a tube because an edge of your cutting tool tried to take too much of a bite or more likely a corner of the tool grabbed the blank. It doesn't take much so ease up on the cutting tool.

Is the c1 tool one of those carbide insert tools? If so I would definately ease up since they are so sharp, a tiny corner can catch the blank and before you know it, half of it is on the floor.

I would suggest getting some cheap wood, cut into 6" lengths x 1" square and practice turning on them and act like each one is going to be a masterpiece. After a while you'll perfect your touch.
 
Sounds like you are not getting good glue coverage on your tubes. Insert and twist for best coverage.

Also, very light cuts when you get close to the end.....
 
Keep in mind that as you near final shape there is really not much wood left. it is much thinner and weaker so slow down your cuts accordingly. about the only thing keeping things together at the end is the glue and tube.
 
The tool may be a problem. My opinion is that these tools are a sharp scraper. They look like a scraper, and they are used like a scraper. That means the cutting forces on the wood are greater than they would be with a sharp gouge or skew chisel. That means you will have to take lighter cuts. It will help by coming into the wood from the bushing. Also, try holding the cutting edge at 45-degrees to the wood to make more of a shearing cut. This will further reduce the cutting forces on the wood.
 
PTownSubbie said:
Sounds like you are not getting good glue coverage on your tubes. Insert and twist for best coverage.

Also, very light cuts when you get close to the end.....
Click to expand...

To add to what Fred said, if you are using CA glue on your tubes ...???.... consider switching to a polyurethane glue (Gorilla, Sumo) or a 5 min epoxy. IMO CA glue is better left for finishing.
 
RussFairfield said:
The tool may be a problem. My opinion is that these tools are a sharp scraper. They look like a scraper, and they are used like a scraper. That means the cutting forces on the wood are greater than they would be with a sharp gouge or skew chisel. That means you will have to take lighter cuts. It will help by coming into the wood from the bushing. Also, try holding the cutting edge at 45-degrees to the wood to make more of a shearing cut. This will further reduce the cutting forces on the wood.
Click to expand...

I have to agree with Russ... from what I read about the C1 tool, it's a pretty aggressive tool for hogging wood off. I would also recommend learning to use the skew on the final cuts on the blanks..
 
If you are using CA glue for the tubes, consider adding a coat of thin when you are about a 1/16" away from the bushing. That will get you by, but for really good cuts, learn to use a skew. Practice any new tools on a scrap with no tube.
 
Harris; Examine the tube and blank. Did the glue stick to the tube or the blank? This will tell you where the bond failed.

Before gluing the tube into the blank, make sure you scuff up the tube with a coarse grit sandpaper. This gives whatever glue you use something to grab onto. Polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue will fill in gaps and is forgiving of too large holes. CA needs a close fit of the tube to the blank. Sometimes the suggested drill size isn't the best one to use if you have one of those 115 piece drill bit sets.

The carbide tool isn't the best for wood. A gouge or skew will put less pressure on the wood. Walnut is a coarse grained wood.
 
Harris,

Count me as a third vote for the aggressiveness of the carbide tool. I like carbide tools and use them, but only to rough turn projects for quicker turning. Switch to a less aggressive tool like a skew for final shaping.

As to the choice of glue, they all work and they all fail. Used correctly, any of the glues mentioned are adequate.
 
WOW, only ONE suggests!!

low_48 said:
If you are using CA glue for the tubes, consider adding a coat of thin when you are about a 1/16" away from the bushing. That will get you by, but for really good cuts, learn to use a skew. Practice any new tools on a scrap with no tube.
Click to expand...

Well, make that TWO suggest.

When you get close to the final shape, douse your blank (especially the ends where it is most likely to break off) with thin CA-- at least let it soak in thoroughly, if you can, let it sit overnight or use an accelerator to "harden" the ends. MUCH less likely to split off.
 
I agree with Russ as well. Also, if you really want to use CA, consider using the black ruberized CA from Monty. It has some flexibility to it and I have found it to be far superior on helping keep things since it handles shock forces better. Regular CA is very brittle, BTW.
 
Until you get used to the carbide bits, just use them for rough turning to round off. It took me a few pens before being comfortable to use the carbide from start to finish.. Last dozen pens + , thats all I used. Also, does sound like the CA is getting enough coverage on the tubes.
 
If you are using ca ,to glue up tube to blank, coat inside of blank with thin ca ,let dry then put med. ca on tube and insert. learn to use skew.
I use half inch round ,that has a curved edge.
hope this helps.
 
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