CA outgassing affecting platinum finish?

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JimMc7

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Six days ago, I completed a platinum Baron with alternate lapis and I used CA to fix a too-loose cap. I let it sit for an hour or so and then capped & boxed the completed pen. I was checking the stock today before giving to the customer this weekend and the platinum nib holder had a "powdery" residue on it. I replaced the holder with a new one from another kit. The residue would not wipe off with a wet paper towel but it did buff off no problems. Sorry but forgot to get a photo before I buffed it.

What I'm worried about it is a reoccurrence when it gets in the hands of the customer!




Questions:
  1. Do you think the CA outgassing caused the residue?
  2. If so, how long would you let the CA cure before capping the pen?
I also applied Ren wax to the replacement nib holder to hopefully prevent but still a bit worred! I'll also leave the pen uncapped for at least 24 more hours.

Thanks in advance!

Edit to add...to be clearer, I used CA to glue the clip/top-cap assembly in the cap tube.
 
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That's an interesting question that I too would like to know FOR SURE. It's my understanding, however, that CA dries almost instantly and with poor weather conditions, etc it could take a little longer. But for me, never longer than 10 min.
 
Yes CA gases will cause the effects you mentioned, and on all platings. After CAing anything around the nib never cap it for at least 24-48 hrs to let it off gas. If not cought in time the plating will actually pit.
 
Being dry to the touch and being fully cured are two different things . I`d give it a couple days at least . Have had similar problem with the plastic finial on El Grandes stress cracking from the CA weeks after assembly .
 
Same thing happened to me as well when I glued a cap and then into a acry tube to store. The next day. Wow !!! The whole inside of the tube and bottom of the pen were white. I guess this is the same method used in CSI for finger printing. They heat a cup of ca in an enclosed are ( fish tank as a example) it Off gases to vapour and it sticks to anything with oil residue from fingers touching.
 
Thanks for the quick replies!

Does Loc-Tite Red cause the same problems? I use it in place of CA sometimes to fix similar problems (Sierra click threaded piece nearest the "nib" for example).
 
Loctite or epoxy is much better than CA for loose parts. I've had the bond fail with CA several times in the past, plus there's the outgassing problem. I've recently started gluing all my parts together as I've gotten some really sloppy fits from what I feel is poor quality control on the part of the brass tube makers.
One word of warning though. I was putting a few Gents and Statesman together the other day and glued the nib holders and finials in. I started to place a small amount of glue inside the tube before pressing in the coupler and got to thinking that if you ever need to disassemble the pen how HARD they were to get out anyway.I once fixed a pen for a customer she bought from someone else. I tried and tried to knock the centerband out. Evidently it was glued in. I finally kept hammering the transfer punch and had almost given up when it finally gave.....the entire tube slid out of the pen. I saved the pen... but what a PITA! Unless it's really sloppy I don't think you'll need any glue at the coupler....lol
 
It's not on your list of questions, but what do you plan to use in the future?
I can recommend 2 part epoxy, no white fume residue, and any that seeps out can be wiped off with no harm to most finishes.
 
Not sure yet, John. Several things to consider:

I use Loc-tite Red for some things now but I have to be careful if any gaps between the blanks & the tubes (red color can seep in and show if a lighter colored blank). I'm usually ok if I put the Loc-tite in the tube and then press in the part.

I've been using West System Epoxy for painted tube glue-ups and minimum amount I can mix using their pumps is ~ 1 ounce. I batch a group of blank-to-tube glue-ups to avoid wasting epoxy. Suppose I'll just have to change the way I work and assemble kits in batches, too although tougher to predict when I'll actually need it.

I recently bought some of the Wooden Wonders 5 minute epoxy but haven't tried it yet. Should be able to mix a smaller quantity using this epoxy so may go this route.
 
I learned this the hard way also. Mine actually discolored the gold plating on the FP. If I pot CA on the cap B/c it is loose I always wait overnight before capping the pen. DJ
 
Funny this should come up today. Last night I opened up a Baron I had glued a custom finial on with CA a few weeks ago. The gold plating was almost all white. I knew what it was so I put a little ca debonder on a soft rag and it wiped right off. Checked again after reading this thread and there was a little more. I think I will leave the cap off until tomorrow and keep an eye on it for the next couple days.
 
This problem has come up several times , do a search for it in the library . I use Red loctite for gluing in ALL plated parts that are loose . The Loctite will hold the part on/in securely without any worries about the plating , and is reversible if you ever need to disassemble the pen . Any of the Loctites will work , I use red because I always have a tube around for engine rebuilding .
 
As Butch pointed out there is a wealth of knowledge in the library. This problem has been mentioned several times. Reading the library will help to avoid this problem. As a bonus, you will learn the answers to a number of questions that you haven't even thought of yet! :question::good:
 
Butch & William, I apologize for not searching the forum for the term "outgassing" before asking the question. After your posts, I did find several posts using "outgassing" as a search term where this question was asked & answered. I do use search with many times an overwhelming # of hits but I was wrong not to continue using search before asking a question. It won't happen again.

Also, I must be using search incorrectly because I find no reference to the term "outgassing" in the library.
 
Jim, I can speak for Butch and me both when I say no apology needed. If my post sounded like a reprimand, you have my sincere apology. My first "join" was the Yahoo Penturners group, which has a treasure trove of tips, tricks, and instructions. I have an extensive personal library of files I have copied both here at the IAP and at the Yahoo group.

What I meant to convey is that time spent in our library and theirs will teach you more than you can imagine and help you to avoid problems such as you experienced.

Please do not take my post as an admonishment not to ask questions.
 
Jim , no need to apologize , we all have many questions...and answers , that's what makes this place such a great place to learn . Never be afraid to ask questions but please also remember that most problems that CAN be had have already been had by someone here at one time or another .
The search feature here is much better then the old forum software but still leaves allot to be desired . The hardest part is figuring out how to ask the question the right way to get relevant answers , if you ever figure it out please let us know .
 
Ya never know what's gonna happen around here! This exact thing just happened to me today! I had a Sierra that I had done with CA and I was going to show it to someone and when I pulled it out of the pen tube, there was the white residue. I was luckily able to just wipe it off and the pen was good as new.

This place is a GREAT source of imformation!! Thanks guys!
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
 
Depending on how much CA glue is in the cap, it can destroy the plating on a fountain pen nib for a long time. I have one with the clip held in with a large glob of CA glue. It has been left open, soaked in accelerator, cleaned with acetone, cursed at, and prayed over, for a year. In the beginning it took overnight to destroy the plating on the nib and fill the feed with a white powder over night. A year later it takes a week. The result is the same.

Now I use epoxy. Locktite for a tight fit, and the 5-minute stuff from System-3 when I need to fill a gap. Either is almost as fast as the CA glue, and solve the problem..
 
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