mandrel problem and solution

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Rifleman1776

Rifleman1776

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Mountain Home, Arkansas, USA.
I have been using an adjustable mandrel that I acquired used. But, for some reason, part of the morse taper is galled and lately required extraordinary measures to remove from the spindle. Something had to be done before I damaged the lathe.
A friend from England, on another forum, suggested I have the mt machined down to parallel then chuck it in my four jaw wood chuck. His idea rang a bell. I have a seldom used large three jaw machinist chuck and put the mandrel in that. Much to my pleasant surprise, it works just fine. :clever: Turns true and I didn't have to engage a machinist. :great1: Once again, I'm a happy turner.
 

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You will want to turn the jaws around to keep from busting a knuckle on the jaws, the jaws will come out if you loosen the chuck all the way out, just make sure the jaws go in to the slot thy come out of, the jaws should be marked 1,2,and 3 thy need to go back in that order.
 
Mike of the North said:
You will want to turn the jaws around to keep from busting a knuckle on the jaws, the jaws will come out if you loosen the chuck all the way out, just make sure the jaws go in to the slot thy come out of, the jaws should be marked 1,2,and 3 thy need to go back in that order.
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I understand what you are saying and I appreciate the safety reminder. Those jaws are scary, no doubt. But, when turning a pen my hands will be well away from them. I have had the chuck for seven years, just don't have a lot of occasion to use it. It is pretty useless for wood but I do use it on occasion for turning Delrin, UHMW and, now and then, some brass.
 
Alright Frank, now just what are you doing with a "mandrell" anyway? :biggrin: You WERE the one to push me to mandrel-less! :biggrin:
 
leehljp said:
Alright Frank, now just what are you doing with a "mandrell" anyway? :biggrin: You WERE the one to push me to mandrel-less! :biggrin:
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OK, I've been burned. But only a little. The 7mm European with cross clips continues to be my most popular pen. I do use a mandrel for 7mm models. But I only turn one half at a time to shorten the mandrel and keep it as rigid as possible.
 
Wildman said:
Paul, have the same chuck, jaws are reversable. See current Grizzly model #G1194.

Numbers on jaws & chuck body make it a snap to turn around.
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Paul, Wildman is correct. The jaws are reversible. But when removing and replacing, in addition to getting them back in the same slot, one must be very careful to insert them equally. This is tricky and sometimes must be attempted several times. If you don't do it right the jaws will not meet equally at the center.
I am not a fan of this chuck and rarely use it. The aforementioned safety concerns are a big reason. And, not to overlook the fact that it will not hold wood accurately keeps it on the shelf most of the time.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
OK, I've been burned. But only a little. The 7mm European with cross clips continues to be my most popular pen. I do use a mandrel for 7mm models. But I only turn one half at a time to shorten the mandrel and keep it as rigid as possible.
Click to expand...
You mean to say you haven't bought the 7mm mandreless bushings yet :eek::eek::eek: :confused::confused::confused:
 
As for the bushings, johnnycnc sells them, I might have a spare set. On the chuck, I have never seen one piece jaws be reversable on a three jaw chuck. Guess they machined the teeth with a radius on both sides. Most chucks for metal lathes are not this way. putting them in is easy, if you look at jaws (assuming they are not numbered, most are). the teeth are staggered. The one closest to the tip of the jaw goes first, the one with the biggest gap from tip to tooth goes last. Watch your scroll when installing, when the starting part comes around, back up enough to start jaw 1, then put #2 in, when it grabs put in #3, walaa, there ya go.
 
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