Cutting Small Pieces On A Power Miter Saw

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That is a great idea for those that have a miter saw and not a regular saw or bandsaw. And the price is about as good as it can get too! Free!!

Sure beats the heck out of chasing those pieces that often take flight.
 
I am not sure about this. I have tried cutting a pen blank on a mitre saw and had the blade catch. The pieces took off bouncing around the shop so badly I never tried that again.
I look at this fixture and think that I could end up with 2 halves of the blank AND a broken clothes peg-WITH a screw protruding bouncing around like that.
I don't think I will be the first to try this unless someone can help me understand how to prevent a blade catch with these saws.
 
I don't have so much trouble cutting small pieces with the miter saw but if I bring the blade back up before it completely stops you best duck.

Ray
 
That's actually a good idea Randy, I use something similar but added a zero clearance throat plate and sliding fences so that accesories such as stop block and feather boards can be added. I personally wouldn't cut a rough pen blank on a 'chop saw'...:wink:
 
Thats not a bad ideal.But how about putting some double face tape on the short cut? Then you can wait for the blade to stop.Just a thought what do yall think?
 
Things have always worked best for me IF I let the saw blade stop turning. This simple device would hold the small piece for me as I reached to retrieve it ... and this "reaching" part is why it is important to let the blade STOP FIRST!
 
Malcolm Tibbetts has a jig very similar to that in his book. The one Randy posted is nice in that it has a spring loaded hold-down. Malcolm's has a little different hold-hold but it is basically the same principle .

Fred is 100% right, wait until the blade stops before raising the saw. That is if you still want to count to 10.

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I just took a second look at Randy's link and I have to say I like Malcolm's setup much better.
Malcolm uses a zero clearance backstop and base which makes his jig way safer to use.
 
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I don't know what it is about my Power miter saw, but I cannot cut blanks on it at all. I can cut paper thin slices all day long on my Radial arm saw no problem. At one time I thought it was the type of blade but that has not proven to be the case. other than that there is a bit of a difference in how the blade passes through the wood. All I know is that for me the miter saw is a much different experience. Not one I care to repeat any time soon.
 
I saw an article some where that the person had mounted a catch box on the off side of the blade, to catch small pieces when they were ejected by a Miter Saw, I believe it was on here about a year and a half ago,
 
bitshird said:
I saw an article some where that the person had mounted a catch box on the off side of the blade, to catch small pieces when they were ejected by a Miter Saw, I believe it was on here about a year and a half ago,
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Ken: Your memory is good. That suggestion was posted here at IAP. I don't remember who posted it; but it shouldn't be too hard to find using the IAP search mode.
 
I prefer using a miter saw over the table saw for small pieces. I guess it's what you're used to using. I've framed over a hundred houses and run a trim crew on twice that many. You use a miter saw 8 hours a day for fifteen years and it becomes a part of you. I do use a zero fence for pen blanks. I have several made for the different bevel and angle cuts. I do use a band saw sometimes, for curved cutting mainly.

And I'll agree with the others, let the blade come to a full stop! Small pieces can fly away, and lifting the blade while it's still turning can cause edge scoring.
 
For the affluent turners, I think most of the better saws have an electric brake that slows the blade pretty quickly. My blade takes about 20 seconds to stop.But i'm old and all i have is time, I think the cloths pin idea coupled with a zero clearance fence and groove would be pretty adequate, remember you are supposed to wear safety glasses any way..
 
bitshird said:
For the affluent turners, I think most of the better saws have an electric brake that slows the blade pretty quickly. My blade takes about 20 seconds to stop.But i'm old and all i have is time, I think the cloths pin idea coupled with a zero clearance fence and groove would be pretty adequate, remember you are supposed to wear safety glasses any way..
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I wouldn't consider myself affluent :biggrin:, but my crapsman has a brake...and a laser! Simple hold downs and not raising the blade until it stops are all it takes for small pieces. Miter a few hunnert foot of shoe molding a day and you'll learn quickly to leave the blade down! DAMHIKT!
 
I use my chop saw to cut all my blanks to size. Again I agree that it's what your used to. That chop saw of mine owes me nothing. I use it more than any other saw I have. I also bought the PSI aluminum Sizing and cutting jig. I love it. I clamp it to my fence, insert the tube in the slot, clamp the blank down in its spot and cut. The cut is square, really clean. Do you need it? Hell no! But it is convenient, fast, and precise. :good:
 
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