Need a home made tool

[Sabaharr]

I seem to be making a lot of European pens so I was wondering if anyone might have a suggestion for the raw material to make a too exactly the right size to turn the required tennon for this pen. I use calipers for the diameter but the length seems to be hit and miss at best.
Stephen

 

[Dario]

A parting tool.

Back when I still make a lot of it, I ground my parting tool a bit "skewed". Meaning looking from the top, the cutting edge is not totally perpendicular to the sides. The right side is a bit longer so I can make a deeper cut at the right side if I want/need.

 

[thewishman]

I got the bushings at Woodcraft (they may be the same as the CSUSA buhings) with a sliding ring on the center bushing as a guide for the tenon. It is not quite exactly the right size, so I took a band from a euro kit and substituted that. Now when I turn the tenon, I use that band from an identical euro to make sure of the fit.

Usually, I make the tenon a little shorter than standard so the bottom barrel fits up into the band a bit more to hide the joint better.

 

[hilltopper46]

Also, for 7mm Euros, the length of the centerband that fits on the tenon may vary between brand and plating on the pen. I think most are the same, but CSUSA Rhodium is longer for sure.

As far as material, I'm not sure what you have in mind. I set my calipers to ~ 0.200 and use the points on the ID tangs to scratch a mark on the pen blank. Like Dario, I take the tenon down with a parting tool and try to undercut the blank a tiny bit to make sure the centerband doesn't have a gap between the back of the CB and the end of the barrel when it is glued in place.

NOTE: I do use the PSI sizing sleeve / bushing tool, but it's OD does not match the CSUSA centerbands.

I know, more than you asked...

 

[workinforwood]

Now I'm learning something new! I know that centerbands vary in thickness and length depending on the euro you buy. A standard gold euro is sure not the same as a fancy sterling silver one. But, I always turned my centerbands a micro hair larger than the inside diameter and pressed them into place with no glue. I did not know that you spun them so the centerband could spin freely and then glued it on. I have one of those bushings with the floating ring and was puzzled by what it was all about so being that I didn't understand it, I tossed it in the trash!:smile-big: Who reads instructions???

I use a mic like everyone else to determine the tennon size, since it can vary, and use a parting tool. One time, long ago now, but I made the tennon a bit too too tight. I got the ring half way on with the press but it wouldn't budge any more. I couldn't get it to come off without damaging it. So...grabbed my trusty 5 pounder and a scrap of wood. Gave it a wack..nothin. Gave it another wack..nothin. Gave it a big wack and bam..the ring popped right into place and all was perfect. I stuck the transmission in the pen end and adjusted the ink perfectly. I put the two halves together...ugghhh....ugghhhh...man oh man! The transmission would not go into the tube of the upper barrel. The centerband was so darn tight that when I forced it on it squeezed the tube smaller!!!!

 

[wdcav1952]

Try this: Measure the width needed for the tenon. Sharpen an old screwdriver and cut the width of the blade to the width needed for the tenon. Refine the shape of the tenon with the edge of your parting tool.

 

[Jim Smith]

This might be a good application for a very small scogger-type tool. Each side of the carbide tip would have a different sized cutting surface which would match the width and depth needed for the tennon on a certain kit. The non-cutting edges could be rounded so simply applying the tool to the blank would make the correct width and depth cut. Not home made, but it might be worth doing of you make a lot of these kits.

Just a thought...

Jim Smith

 

[rherrell]

Set your calipers to the width you want and then, with the lathe turning, put one end of the calipers over the end of the blank and use the other end to transfer the width to the blank. The sharp points on the calipers will make a nice little fine line for you to follow with your parting tool.
I use this method ALL THE TIME and it won't hurt your calipers. At least it's never hurt mine.:wink:
One more trick is to turn the tenon AFTER you have applied your finish and it has had time to dry.

 

[hilltopper46]

One more trick is to turn the tenon AFTER you have applied your finish and it has had time to dry.

Hmmmm.... This works if you make a barrel that is parallel to the tube. On the Euros and Perfect Fits, I make a tapered barrel, and can't predict closely enough where the centerband will contact the barrel. I turn the corners off the blank, then turn it down to about .100 oversize, then turn the tenon.

 

[ngeb528]

My hubby bought a cheap mini chisel set (about 4 inches long) and adapted a flat ended scraper to cut the tenon to just the right size - width and depth. Takes no time at all to do those tenons now.

Nancy

 

[rherrell]

Hmmmm.... This works if you make a barrel that is parallel to the tube. On the Euros and Perfect Fits, I make a tapered barrel, and can't predict closely enough where the centerband will contact the barrel. I turn the corners off the blank, then turn it down to about .100 oversize, then turn the tenon.

Planning my friend, planning.:wink: