Fountain Pen Quality

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andyk

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I just turned my first fountain pen, a CSUSA Artisan kit. I was not impressed with the firmness of seating the cap over the nib, or posting the cap when in use. Has anyone improved on this or do you just turn a higher quality kit? Are ink cartridges available locally or do they need to be purchased from CSUSA?

Thanks,
andyk
 
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I saw that post previously but doesn't really pertain to the Artisan series of pens as they are not a threaded cap. It is just a push click so that application wouldn't work.
 
The push-click is adjustable.

However, when I made those pens, years ago (so they may have changed the design by now), the plastic insert that "grabbed" the nib was a shade too long. So, I sanded off part of the "nose" of the plastic part, then screwed it into the extension from the finial. You could then adjust it so the pen was held tightly, to the cap.

This design was one of the major reasons I stopped making this pen.
 
The ink cartridge, like most of our pens, is the "universal" or "international" size.

Used to tell people you can find it at ANY office supply store. WRONG!! I can't find it at either Office Max or Office Depot in my town. So, yes it is a "standard" size. IF you make enough pens to justify it, buy the cartridges from DCBluesman or Penworks. Their ink runs more smoothly (I am told by those who can tell the difference).
 
andyk said:
I just turned my first fountain pen, a CSUSA Artisan kit. I was not impressed with the firmness of seating the cap over the nib, or posting the cap when in use. Has anyone improved on this or do you just turn a higher quality kit? Are ink cartridges available locally or do they need to be purchased from CSUSA?

Thanks,
andyk
Click to expand...
I agree with Ed, the amount of pressure it takes to snap the cap is adjustable. I would suggest tinkering with the plastic cap, tightening and loosening, before giving up on the kit.

I have done dozens of these and am pleased with how they snap, both open and closed and the cap snapping onto the bottom. Not bad for a $7 kit, which combined with a $2 acrylic blank can easily be sold for $40, and a cheap way for someone to get into fountain pens! Get 'em hooked on a fountain then sell them a nicer pen! :wink:
 
This is the reason I have almost completly stopped with AMERICANA pen, since I am not sure how many "cliks" a plastic en insert can take. I belive in "screwing" models, since that way I know customer will not came back in a year with pen that does not close.
 
"Down" side to everything!

george said:
This is the reason I have almost completly stopped with AMERICANA pen, since I am not sure how many "cliks" a plastic en insert can take. I belive in "screwing" models, since that way I know customer will not came back in a year with pen that does not close.
Click to expand...

However the "screwing" model can come "unscrewed" in your pocket or purse. Then, the pen maker is "screwed" when the customer shows up at the next show to "EXPLAIN" the shortcomings of your pens -- loudly.

It's just NOT a perfect world -------- (breaking bulletin!!!)
 
Americana pen -

I've made exactly one of these.

I'm a little more clumsy than most of the public which is great for product verification. I pretty much wrecked the nib on this pen two or three times by getting it caught in the cap when closing up the pen. I didn't like the idea of selling this to somebody - there are several failure modes that I found way too easy to imagine. They mostly involved ink all over a purse or pocket.

I've had better luck with the kits that Woodcraft sells - euro or american style fountain pens. The nibs are still cheap, but that's universal. I'm trying out some Churchills and thinking that the little Baron might be a nice fountain pen - I've made a bunch of rollerballs of this type and I like the way the pen feels and closes.

I'll probably upgrade the nibs on most of the fountain pens that I make. I've had too many non-inkers from the kit nibs. CSUSA or Lou's (DCBluesman) nibs are a big improvement.
 
I recently made my first Artisan rollerball (and have a fountain kit to try next). I had a little trouble getting the nib adjusted just right (it's a little loose). Not having a nib adjusting tool I tried using a #1 phillips screwdriver, but I'm wondering if there is a modification that would make it work better. Also curious about what Ed said about the plastic insert being a bit too long. That sounds like it might have been my problem.
 
Lenny said:
I recently made my first Artisan rollerball (and have a fountain kit to try next). I had a little trouble getting the nib adjusted just right (it's a little loose). Not having a nib adjusting tool I tried using a #1 phillips screwdriver, but I'm wondering if there is a modification that would make it work better. Also curious about what Ed said about the plastic insert being a bit too long. That sounds like it might have been my problem.
Click to expand...

Use a #2 phillips or even a #3 and back out the white plastic insert. Belt sand off a little (sixteenth) of the nib that engages to the finial. Re-insert the white piece and screw until your pen seats the way you like. Careful not to screw it real tight, it can strip.:curse:
 
Thanks Ed. Now that I think about it I did end up using a #2 bit. I wondered if grinding the tip flat would help it "grab" better. Probably will just pick up a nib tool when I place my next order. At least my first rollerball wasn't to fill an order. Armed with your advice maybe I'll be able to get it right before I make one for someone else.
Thanks again.
 
John Eberly said:
I've had better luck with the kits that Woodcraft sells - euro or american style fountain pens. The nibs are still cheap, but that's universal. I'm trying out some Churchills and thinking that the little Baron might be a nice fountain pen - I've made a bunch of rollerballs of this type and I like the way the pen feels and closes.

I'll probably upgrade the nibs on most of the fountain pens that I make. I've had too many non-inkers from the kit nibs. CSUSA or Lou's (DCBluesman) nibs are a big improvement.
Click to expand...
The Woodcraft kits are the only ones I've ever tried -- I just started this three short weeks ago, and I'm already awash in pens of all kinds :wink: I've had a lathe for years, but had never tried pens. I think I'm ready to try some other kits.

Anyway, if you have non-inker kits (IPGs), go ahead and disassemble the section, wash them out, and put the section+feed+nib back together carefully. I've noticed the non-inkers I've seen had the nibs not closely mated to the feed ... rotating either the feed or the nib to line them up fixed the problem.

I just noticed this is my first post here. Very valuable forum! Thanks!

--Jim--
 
ed4copies said:
Use a #2 phillips or even a #3 and back out the white plastic insert. Belt sand off a little (sixteenth) of the nib that engages to the finial. Re-insert the white piece and screw until your pen seats the way you like. Careful not to screw it real tight, it can strip.:curse:
Click to expand...

I gave it a try and it worked great. Thanks again.
 
ed4copies said:
The ink cartridge, like most of our pens, is the "universal" or "international" size.

Used to tell people you can find it at ANY office supply store. WRONG!! I can't find it at either Office Max or Office Depot in my town. So, yes it is a "standard" size. IF you make enough pens to justify it, buy the cartridges from DCBluesman or Penworks. Their ink runs more smoothly (I am told by those who can tell the difference).
Click to expand...

Ahmmmm! Ed you can also get Lou's cartridges, as well as his fountain pen converters and a bunch of his other goodies here....

http://www.exoticblanks.com/index.p...art&page=shop.browse&category_id=51&Itemid=60

Sheesh! :rolleyes:
 
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