Jr. Gent threads

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ryankelley

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46
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I just put together a gold Jr. Gent, everything seemed fine until I "tried" posting the cap on to the end cap. It would not thread on, I looked at the threads and they were marred (bad). Cap screws on the nib end but won't start on the end cap. Anyone ever have this happen, any ideas on a way to "fix" the threads. I am stuck and don't know what to do.
 
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If it is the threads on the end cap that are defective, I would contact customer service at CSUSA. They are excellent customer oriented people and will likely replace the part for you.
 
I can confirm that they will do their best, but be aware that the threaded
part isn't something they stock.. they can't buy those parts separately.

I had two that were damaged, and they did replace them. But I think they
had to waste two Jr. Statesman kits to do it.

Worse news..I've never been able to disassemble the top of a capped pen
without cutting it apart. You can save the kit parts, but might not be able
to save the wood or tubes. Maybe someone else has had some success at
this?
 
I learned through tears over problems like this to put all parts together before starting the project..
 
NewLondon88 said:
I can confirm that they will do their best, but be aware that the threaded
part isn't something they stock.. they can't buy those parts separately.

I had two that were damaged, and they did replace them. But I think they
had to waste two Jr. Statesman kits to do it.

Worse news..I've never been able to disassemble the top of a capped pen
without cutting it apart. You can save the kit parts, but might not be able
to save the wood or tubes. Maybe someone else has had some success at
this?
Click to expand...

Doesn't sound like the top is what needs to be disassembled- if the cap correctly screws onto the nib end, but not the posting end, it's likely the posting end hardware with the spring for the refill in it that needs to be replaced.

That said, I've disassembled more capped pens than I care to think about- which is why I use the blue loktite on the fittings rather than CA or Epoxy. I actually have three sets of the Harbor Freight transfer punches, one inside the house in the "Pen room", one in the shop, and one still in the box in case I "misplace" any of the punches in the future. When my wife finds my wedding ring in the pocket of my jeans, she knows to ask what pen I was disassembling :biggrin:
 
NewLondon88 said:
Worse news..I've never been able to disassemble the top of a capped pen
without cutting it apart. You can save the kit parts, but might not be able
to save the wood or tubes. Maybe someone else has had some success at
this?
Click to expand...
I have taken the Jr. gents apart several times. I just used the transfer punch set and it was easy.
What did you cut and why? It is the same as taking any kit apart.:smile:
 
ryankelley said:
I just put together a gold Jr. Gent, everything seemed fine until I "tried" posting the cap on to the end cap. It would not thread on, I looked at the threads and they were marred (bad). Cap screws on the nib end but won't start on the end cap. Anyone ever have this happen, any ideas on a way to "fix" the threads. I am stuck and don't know what to do.
Click to expand...

How can your problem be the cap? If it screws on the nib end, it is good. The threads on the "posting" end are on the piece that screws into the plastic holder. Unscrew that end piece (with the spring in it and replace with one from another kit - then call CSUSA and return and replace the bad one)
 
The problem is the centerband coupler actually, wrong wording on my part. I took the advice about calling them and they are going to send me a new cbc. I made a RB/FP set, The cbc on the RB works fine on all the threads the cbc on the FP doesn't want to thread on either end cap. So its getting replaced. Thanks for the advice.
 
johncrane said:
l like that Lyle, but does she tell you when she finds the money :wink::biggrin:
Click to expand...
Yes John, she does tell me when she finds the money- especially when it's folding, and in the larger denominations. Unfortunately, our long standing agreement is she gets to keep whatever she finds, so there is normally taunting involved when a $10 or $20 ends up in the hands of "The Management" :beat-up:
 
lwalden said:
That said, I've disassembled more capped pens than I care to think about- which is why I use the blue loktite on the fittings rather than CA or Epoxy.
Click to expand...

The plastic insert is the part I can never get apart .. and I don't put anything
on it. I can get replacement tubes and wood, but not that plastic piece.
 
wolftat said:
I have taken the Jr. gents apart several times. I just used the transfer punch set and it was easy.
What did you cut and why? It is the same as taking any kit apart.:smile:
Click to expand...

You got that centerband piece out??? I've never been able to do that.
I can mangle it, I can tear it apart. I can do most anything except get it
to come out.

So far I've only taken them apart on TruStone pens and a soapstone Jr. Gent.
I break away the stone and then cut and peel away the tube to get to the
plastic insert. It's the only way I've been able to do it.
 
I had this same problem recently and CSUSA took care of it right away. My problem was that the metal piece that holds the spring for the rollerball cartridge was too big. Remove that piece and then see if the cap will screw on to the post.

CSUSA is great when it comes to customer service. I just emailed them and they shipped out a replacement part without any questions.

John
 
NewLondon88 said:
The plastic insert is the part I can never get apart .. and I don't put anything
on it. I can get replacement tubes and wood, but not that plastic piece.
Click to expand...

Charlie, when I disassemble a cap end for one of the Jr VII kit sets, I use the Harbor Freight transfer punch set. I start with the 11/32 (.341 on my digital micrometer). If you have one of their transfer punch sets, and have the smallest of the three rows to the front with the larger transfer punches on the back of the three rows, it's in the middle row, 4th from the right. I insert the end without the transfer point (in order to avoid knocking out the finial), take off the wedding band (as mentioned in an earlier post), and while holding the capped end in my left hand use a hammer to strike the transfer punch- it normally takes about 5 or 6 hits to knock the clip end out of the tube, though there's been occasions it's taken 15 or 20. Once the clip end is out, I use the 29/64 transfer punch (it's the middle one of the 7 punches on the back row, mic'd at .451") It's just about a perfect fit for the brass tube, virtually no room to spare. It normally takes me about a dozen stikes with the hammer to get the center coupler with the plastic sleeve(s) out, though some times it can be double that. I have done this dozens of times, sometimes several times on the same pen as I'm trying to get the grain alignment dead on between upper and lower sections (I normally wait to put the clip hardware on until I've made sure the center coupler is placed correctly for grain alignment). I've also used this on multiple pens where I decided to strip off the dipped lacquer finish and replace with a CA finish, once I got more comfortable with the CA finish technique I now use.
 
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