Woodcraft Cigar Pen Hardware Question

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
S

ScoJo

Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Messages
34
Location
Fishers, IN
I'm a new pen turner now - what fun! Turned my first pen today - a cigar pen with a kit from Woodcraft.

Quick question - is there an issue or something with the cigar pen kit from Woodcraft, or did I do something wrong? The pen comes to a hard stop when it opens, but when it closes, it does not. It can go "past" closed, where it opens again partially. Seems wrong.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
It should open fully in both directions - the mechanism is called 'double-twist'. Sometimes when the pens are new, it simply takes a bit of playing with the mechanism to make it work fully. Some folks (I never have) clean the transmission with a solvent to get all the grease out of it, and then put a bit opf light oil back in it.

Also, make sure the end where the tip comes out is good and clean - if you can push it in and out against the spring with out the transmission assembled to it, it should be OK.
 
I see. Thanks. If I try to fully open the pen in the other direction, it comes out part way and then starts to unscrew instead of coming all the way out to the locking position. Has this happened to you, and what is the fix?
 
The Cigar from CSUSA only opens in one direction. Turn cw to write & cc to retract. Doesn't turn left after it retracts the refill. It doesn't unscrew, it pulls apart. I've got a Cigar I got from another forum member that works the same. I didn't know they were 'double twist'. Woodcraft may be different. You might re-check your instructions & see if you made a mistake.
 
Sounds like you need to clean the transmission. Woodcraft carries the Berea style cigar, which is a double twist as mentioned in the earlier post. When turning it counter-clockwise after it comes to the "open" position if you keep turning it will start to unscrew the transmission, which will stay in the cap and allows for replacing the refill. Instead of unscrewing, pull the upper barrel and lower barrel apart, which will leave the transmission in place screwed to the center coupler on the lower barrel. Then unscrew the transmission and clean it up (DNA, wd40, etc). Obviously be carefull with the finish on your pen- I'm guessing if you're just getting started you used a friction polish finish, so make sure your hands are clean and dry, free of whatever you used to clean up the transmission. Go ahead and screw the transmission back onto the center coupler of the lower barrel with the refill inserted, and work the transmission back and forth through both rotations a number of times, until you can feel that it is moving freely and fully extending in both directions. Once that's done, press the upper and lower barrels back together, and you should be good to go.

ScoJo said:
I see. Thanks. If I try to fully open the pen in the other direction, it comes out part way and then starts to unscrew instead of coming all the way out to the locking position. Has this happened to you, and what is the fix?
Click to expand...
 
If it is opening partly and then starting to unscrew, My guess is that it may just be that the transmission isn't quite tight enough. There seems to be a happy medium. If you don't have it tight enough, it will start to unscrew before it locks into "open". If you have it too tight, it doesn't want to open because the transmission will slip on the friction fit of the upper barrel before the threads let go. If this happens, you can just do as the others have stated and pull the upper off and adjust from there. GL to you and lets see this pen!!!
 
ScoJo said:
I'm a new pen turner now - what fun! Turned my first pen today - a cigar pen with a kit from Woodcraft.

Quick question - is there an issue or something with the cigar pen kit from Woodcraft, or did I do something wrong? The pen comes to a hard stop when it opens, but when it closes, it does not. It can go "past" closed, where it opens again partially. Seems wrong.
Click to expand...

Congratulations on your first pen Scott!

As someone else said, cigar pens are mostly double twist BUT because the transmission is a screw on, it is possible to unscrew the transmission accidentally.

I eliminate this by using lock-tite on the transmission threads. The instructions I provide with the pen says to unscrew the point end of the pen to replace the ink cartridge. Since I only sell face-to-face, I demonstrate how to do it to the person getting the pen.
 
Thanks to all for the tips. I went to try to clean the transmission today, and found that after using it for the last day or so, it is actually working correctly today. Not sure what happened, but I guess I lucked out. Here is the pen:

Pen1b.jpg
 
Thanks! Can someone tell me if the cigar pen kit on CSUSA is the same kit that I bought in Woodcraft? It looks identical in the pictures, and the CSUSA price is so much cheaper! Maybe it is not the same?
 
Thanks again. I noticed on the CSUSA site that the bit listed is a 25/64" bit, and the one listed on the Bear Tooth Woods site is a 10 mm bit (which is what I used for mine). Is the CSUSA one slightly different, or do they list the wrong bit?
 
Scott,

Choose carefully your use of "wrong" (this is a joke!))

MANY vendor "suggestions" can use improvement. Get yourself a caliper (cheap at Harbor Freight is fine), then measure tubes. Get a full set of Harbor Freight bits. Until you get into pens that require holes over half an inch (Yes, there ARE some - but they are pretty costly and not a great idea for you, YET!), you will have everything you need for under $20. (well, IF you wait for HF's 50% off, which always happens the week AFTER you buy the pieces you wanted).

Specifically, either the 25/64 OR the 10mm will work for cigars- I have used them all. IF you are using cocobolo, you may need a slightly larger hole, since it tends to swell after drilling. Also don't get it real hot while drilling.
 
Welcome to our addiction!!! It will only get worse from here on out. There is a lot of information to be gleaned from this group. Soo you will be asking if a navigation, sedona, tycoon are the same. It can all be confusing. I also use Woodcraft when I am near or NEED it now. Brouse the online stores and compare. There are a lot of bargans to be had. And do not be afraid to ask questions.
 
ed4copies said:
Specifically, either the 25/64 OR the 10mm will work for cigars- I have used them all. IF you are using cocobolo, you may need a slightly larger hole, since it tends to swell after drilling. Also don't get it real hot while drilling.
Click to expand...


To join the thread; Scott; I agree with Ed; Wood requires a slightly larger bit than acrylics. ie. the hole a drill bit makes is slightly smaller in wood than acrylic. I always try the tube in the hole before I remove the blank from the drill press.

Tip: Cut the blanks longer than needed. Hold the tube next to the drill bit and park the length on the bit with a sharpie. When the mark disappears into the blank stop drilling. Cut off the other end of the blank to length +1/16".
The things that affect the hole size are:
1. A slow speed will drill a smaller hole than a fast speed.
2. Enlarging a hole makes a smaller hole than drilling the same hole in one go.
3. A hole in wood will be smaller than a hole in acrylic.

Note that the differences are very small, at most a few thousandths of an inch.

Only machinists and anal-retentive people like me are likely to care about the differences. But I do like to make my holes a snug slip fit.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom