Anyone Use Isopropyl Alcohol instead of DNA?

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I've stuck to DNA simply because water is a component in most Isopropyl alcohol bottles sold in local stores, more or less depending on the dilution rate (usually shown on the bottle). I know it is sold in a more pure form from lots of different sources, but usually when someone asks me about using it, it's from the drug store and a max of 91% alcohol.

Since water is not always wood friendly or helpful, I prefer DNA for more predictability for what it will do. I am not super thrilled with the flammability of DNA in my shop environment however, and keep it stored in a metal can or in my flammable materials metal cabinet. I have a small metal trash can in my shop with a tight lid that is my disposal place for used finish or alcohol rags. I've got a deep fear of fire from past experiences, so caution is always forefront for me.

Kevin
 
I've stuck to DNA simply because water is a component in most Isopropyl alcohol bottles sold in local stores, more or less depending on the dilution rate (usually shown on the bottle). I know it is sold in a more pure form from lots of different sources, but usually when someone asks me about using it, it's from the drug store and a max of 91% alcohol.

Since water is not always wood friendly or helpful, I prefer DNA for more predictability for what it will do. I am not super thrilled with the flammability of DNA in my shop environment however, and keep it stored in a metal can or in my flammable materials metal cabinet. I have a small metal trash can in my shop with a tight lid that is my disposal place for used finish or alcohol rags. I've got a deep fear of fire from past experiences, so caution is always forefront for me.

Kevin
Thanks!
 
both work but isopropyl , if it has the higher water content raises grain slightly . Relevance depends on the job in hand , eg if i'm wiping out oily woods before gluing tubes it it's irrelevant but if it's wiping wood surface you might need to denib with very fine paper after
 
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