These are all skeleton from which inlays were cut. Seemed like I could do something with them. Colored resin stained them badly, even though I tried various methods of sealing them. The better ones were double dipped in sanding sealer prior to casting. The darker woods are not a problem, even if staining is there it's unnoticeable. Even clear resin is noticeable on the lighter woods. The thing is, I don't hate them but I don't know if I could put them on a pen knowing it's stained. Kind of silly since we all stain wood all the time. That is intentional though. I used both Alumilite clear and Liquid Diamond, same results with both. What do you all think, is this a losing endeavor?
Experimenting With Laser Scrap
- Thread starter KenB259
- Start date
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Mike
Member
I like them. Should make some nice pens. Please post some pics when you get some pens made.
Mike
Mike
JohnU
Member
They look nice. Stabilizing the wood will stop the bleed but that's not fun to do. Kallanshan sells some of his negatives for casting and I've tried a few. They were cut out pieces for other blanks so they weren't as patterned as yours. I'm surprised the clear resin stained them. I wonder if pouring at a higher temp where the resin is thicker would stop it from soaking in to the wood grain.
I thought about pouring them warmer but thought it might not fill in the voids well.
KMCloonan
Member
Those are really cool! Maybe you can create a category of environmentally responsible pen making, reclaiming scrap from your laser/casting process.
JohnU
Member
Since it's single colors I would have first poured as soon as the resin was mixed so it was thin. I would try waiting until it hits 95° ish. That's enough to keep color separation and still get around embedded objects. It might stop the resin from soaking in. Since it's under pressure I would think you'd be ok as long as it's not over 110°. At 95° it gives you time to pour. Either way they look cool!
I'll try a few more and letting it get to 95° before I pour it. I was thinking about offering some of the skeletons for sale, but if they can't be cast easily, that's probably not a good idea.
leehljp
Member Liaison
If sold with the caveat in big bold print - I can see a market for them for experimenters who like doing that, and an exclaimer saying "NO GUARANTEES ON THE OUTCOME!".
NGLJ
Member
I really like the overall idea of cutting the shapes on a laser. I assume that you use a rotary. I don't suppose that you would consider writing up how you do it. The vectors that you use to define the cuts have to be worked out so that they cut correctly around the cylinder.
I've turned some very thin and the staining doesn't go away.
These are not purposely cut to be cast. They are the leftover skeletons that have had the inlay pieces cut from. Yes I use a rotary attachment to cut them.
so I'm going to ask what is probably a foolish question. Would the staining turn away as you worked down the diameter on the lathe?
I think Hank had the correct idea on your sales of these blanks. "results not guaranteed"
I think Hank had the correct idea on your sales of these blanks. "results not guaranteed"
got it, what a bummer. They're really quite gorgeous
Mike
Member
OK, am I missing something? The "staining" looks intentional to me and I like it. I think they would make some very interesting pens.
Mike
Mike
Yeah, the staining is not intentional. I think they look interesting, but I know they are flawed. That's why I would have a hard time trying to sell that look as a "feature".
PatrickR
Member
There is a lot of potential here. I assume the blanks are drilled, laser cut and then cast?
Here is one I made some time ago with a similar look but what I did was cut the blank, drilled for a tube that was decorated and then clear cast.
Here is one I made some time ago with a similar look but what I did was cut the blank, drilled for a tube that was decorated and then clear cast.
leehljp
Member Liaison
Between you and KenB, and a few others, I see that all of you are accomplishing much more than what was hoped with the 12 - 13 year old Beal Pen Wizard could accomplish with an experienced or skilled user. In retrospect, the lack of expected results on the pen wizard was basically due to "too slow' dremel/router speed that resulted in fibered/feathred edges.
In one Scrollsaw forum, the use of a quality Dremel "type" carving often resulted in feathered edges. Then one guy bought an expensive HIGH speed (Dremel type) carver (Vortex F5 high speed carving tool,) that turned at up to 500,000 rpm, and did not leave feathering edges.
So the laser cutter is doing what the Pen Wizard was hoped to be able to do - to some extent (and probably could do some with a Vortex F5 high speed grinder). For you guys without the CNC and other computer skills for what PatrickR and KenB and others are doing and still want to accomplish "manual" cutting, a Vortex F5 high speed carving tool on a Beal might do what you want. I don't know if the Vortex F5 is still sold or not.
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That's exactly what I did with the ones with multi colored cutouts.
PatrickR
Member
I'm sure that I stabilized before the clear casting.
johncrane
Member
penturning ideas are endless! nice work Ken