Deft GLOSS Spray Lacquer can?

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jrista

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Well, I've been playing with lacquer a bit again. Trying to find a good, clear finish that won't change the color of wood. I've tried some other options, and don't care for the results (all water based...meh, can't seem to like this stuff!!)

I had a can of Watco lacquer, which I've never had much luck with, and its pretty much gone here. I have been looking for a can of Deft lacquer spray, that is GLOSS... I cannot seem to find this stuff anywhere. Locally it seems to be gone, I don't know if it is because of changes in Colorado law or something (we've lost a LOT of essential finishing solvents and such due to recent ridiculous changes in law...we can't even get normal mineral spirits anymore, its all this odorless stuff which is just NOT the same!!) Online, I can find plenty of the "Satin" stuff, as well as plenty of the sanding sealer. I just cannot seem to find gloss Deft lacquer spray anywhere...

At least, nowhere I know to look. I'm hoping someone may know of a source where I could pick up some gloss deft lacquer. Assuming, I guess...that there even is such a thing? Maybe Deft doesn't have a gloss finish?
 
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I have used both Watco and Deft lacquers with great success. Both satin and gloss. If you have a walmart store I would check there. Sometimes Ace Hardware carries them too. It could be Deft is discontinuing it. Ebay would be another source. Might want to look into the waterbase lacquers too.
 
I have used both Watco and Deft lacquers with great success. Both satin and gloss. If you have a walmart store I would check there. Sometimes Ace Hardware carries them too. It could be Deft is discontinuing it. Ebay would be another source. Might want to look into the waterbase lacquers too.

I've checked all the local stores. Walmart, Ace, Lowes, Home Depot, Mc Guckins, etc. etc. I can hardly find a can of Deft anything locally... Its become very hard to find a lot of critical finish stuff locally anymore.

I don't know what it is about Watco, but even with very light coats, I get this orange peel mottling, which takes a heck of a lot of work to sand out. This was what lead me to ditch the lacquer in the past, but sadly, Watco seems to be about the only spray can lacquer we have here. I have tried and tried with the water based stuff...but, yuck. :P Everything water-based that I've tried looks like a non-penetrating finish that sits like a film on top of the wood, and in a bad way. I'm a sucker for rich chatoyance, and the only way I've ever been able to get that is with oil based finished that penetrate deeply into the fibers. Well, I guess I've also been able to get it to a degree with shellac based sanding sealer, which also penetrates deeply, and then Acks abrasive paste and wax restoring polish...but hose don't quite go as far as say poly, which can REALLY bring out the chatoyance. Water based stuff...the chatoyance is just not there...at least, I've had a heck of a time ever bringing it out. The water based stuff, including water based sanding sealers (I think I have three of them now) just don't penetrate the same way, and the wood is just flat and dead... :'(

I have checked Amazon, Ebay, as well as Woodcraft and Rockler online stores as well. They again have the Deft Satin and lacquer sanding sealers, but I haven't seen any gloss. Do you know if they actually have a gloss? Or maybe Deft just never had a gloss lacquer?
 
Thanks.

Its interesting...if I try to search for deft gloss myself on amazon, those two products do not come up. I don't know why....unless they are blocking me from finding those products for some reason...? Colorado?
 
LOL, I searched Amazon and found them both and was copy/pasting when John T posted his response.
 
LOL, I searched Amazon and found them both and was copy/pasting when John T posted his response.

Very annoying... I only get one page of results as well. There are not that many deft products that show up for me on Amazon. There is a gallon of the gloss ProLuxe stuff...but I don't know what that is. It just says its a clear finish.

I actually did find a can of Gloss on Ebay. It was $17, but then they wanted $15 in shipping!! Not gonna pay $30 for a can that should cost $12.95.
 
I like deft also. I use the gloss. Use to buy it at HD but was out last time. Wife found some at Ace. I was reading that deft was bought out by Prolux. Supposedly Prolux is the new Deft.
 
Just something to think about. Bullwinkle,here on IAP, said he likes the feel of Lacquer over CA finishes. If I remember correctly he sprays a little on a cloth and wipes it on the pen. Maybe to thick of a coat is causing the orange peel effect. Or you might try putting several layers of lacquer and sanding it smooth. That would be a lot of extra work rather than just spraying it a be done. Just something to think about. Good Luck
 
I used to spray a lot of Diamond Vogel Gloss lacquer which I bought by the gallon at a local paint store. I used a small touch up spray gun and had great results with it. For rattle can lacquer I would recommend checking with a paint store if none of your big box locations carry it.
 
I like deft also. I use the gloss. Use to buy it at HD but was out last time. Wife found some at Ace. I was reading that deft was bought out by Prolux. Supposedly Prolux is the new Deft.

This sounds about right. I guess they were bought out years ago:


It sounds like there is a more recent supply issue though:


Don't know if this is ongoing...or if there is indeed some issue in Colorado specifically (VOC related?) Even Ace doesn't seem to carry much Deft anymore. I wonder if the new Deft Prolux stuff, is a reformulation... Everything I've read says that the original Deft is some of the best formulation on the market, clear, doesn't yellow, etc. etc.

I also noticed on this page, it says that ProLuxe is the same formulation...so maybe it has just been rebranded and thats all:

 
This shows in our closest Ace.
Prolux Deft Gloss

I went down to my main Ace, and they had it. Seems that's the deal, its now called ProLuxe. The newest cans don't seem to say Deft in any prominent place anymore. There is a little white badge that says same formula as Deft, which I missed all the previous times I looked.

Guess that clears up the mystery!
 
jrista, how close are you spraying? I have seen orange peeling in applications of porcelain enamel in appliance parts. Either the spray was too close to the part or the air pressure set too high.
 
jrista, how close are you spraying? I have seen orange peeling in applications of porcelain enamel in appliance parts. Either the spray was too close to the part or the air pressure set too high.

I am usually around 12" from the piece... I don't really know if that is too close or not though, its just what I've seen people recommend in YT videos.
 
I have another question here...

Any of these lacquer sprays in a can. Are they ALL nitrocellulose? (The ProLuxe stuff says it is an oil-based, but outside of that the formula details seem to be secret.) Or are any of them pre-catalyzed lacquers? I am still not entirely sure I really like the look of the spray can lacquer directly on the surface of wood. I've been doing some reading, and found some advice on using a dewaxed ultra blond shellac undercoat first, which I find generally penetrates well and helps bring out the chatoyance, THEN using a catalyzed lacquer topcoat over that. Seems the catalyzed lacquers provide a better bond to the shellac and also provide a harder surface that is more resistant to scratching.

I'm just not entirely sure if there is any kind of pre-catalyzed lacquer in a spray can, or if I must buy that stuff and use my own spray gun. I have very limited experience with a spray gun, and don't necessarily want to buy a large quantity of pre-cat (or post-cat) lacquer if I ultimately don't like the way it looks (even with a shellac undercoat).
 
Lots of info out there about different finishes. https://spectrumpaint.com/resource_...ges-of-pre-cat-lacquer-vs-traditional-lacquer



Let's explore the differences between pre-catalyzed (pre-cat) lacquer and traditional (nitrocellulose) lacquer:
  1. Composition:
    • Nitrocellulose Lacquer: Made by mixing fast-drying solvents with wood and cotton pulp containing cellulose that has been broken down by nitric and sulfuric acid. It was invented in 1921 and became popular for mass-produced automobiles.
    • Pre-Catalyzed Lacquer: A hybrid reactive finish that contains nitrocellulose resins along with urea resins. It cures chemically, not solely through solvent evaporation.
  2. Advantages of Pre-Cat Lacquer:
  3. Nitrocellulose Lacquer Disadvantages:
    • Yellowing: The film yellows as it ages.
    • Shrinking and Cracking: It can shrink, causing cracks (crazing) in the surface.
    • Flammability: The overspray is highly flammable.
    • Blushing: In high humidity, the finish film may appear cloudy due to trapped condensed moisture (blushing).
In summary, pre-catalyzed lacquer combines the ease of application of nitrocellulose lacquer with improved durability and resistance, making it a preferred choice for many woodworkers and furniture manufacturers13. If you're looking for a lacquer finish that balances convenience and performance, pre-cat lacquer is worth considering! 😊🔧🪚
 
✓ Lacquers – Lacquer paint can be used with an airbrush, however you must thin it using a lacquer-based reducer. Many suggest using a hobby grade lacquer thinner as it's not as "hot" as industrial grade lacquer thinners which can eat plastic and rubber airbrush parts. Lacquers though commonly clear, do come in colors. The main intent behind lacquers is to provide surface protection as they are very durable. That being said, they should be applied thick to provide adequate protection and shine. A potential drawback of applying lacquer using an airbrush is, you may not be able to build up sufficient layer thickness due to the airbrushes need for the material to be thin. A.K.A it will take multiple layers to build up sufficient coverage. If you do airbrush lacquer, keep in mind it is solvent based so be sure to protect yourself with adequate PPE and be sure you have plenty of ventilation.


Using lacquer over a dewaxed shellac is a good way to go. just make sure the shellac is dewaxed and also sanded smooth when done. Let dry before adding lacquer. You need to seal the wood for a better finish.

If you are getting orange peel it can be a few things causing it. One is you did not use a sealer such as dewaxed shellac. need this especially with oily woods such as exotics. next is you are too far away from the project when spraying. next is you are not spraying enough material for the top layer to melt into the lower layer. The acetones in the lacquer melt the layers and thus create a smooth layer. Finally the tip is clogged or the opening is too broad. At times those can spray tips just do not spray well because of this. Spraying with a HVLP gun is a great way to spray a project. But for pen blanks or other small objects rattle cans work well.
 
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We can no longer buy it in California as of the first of the year. One of my buddies was able to order some off of Amazon, and it was delivered. The can looks different and makes a strong reference to furniture refinishing.

I also understand Deft was reformulating to comply with states like California, which means no VOC's, which likely means water-based.

Also, if Colorado is like California we can no longer buy denatured alcohol. But, we can but camping fuel. If you look on Amazon there is denatured alcohol with camping fuel in large letters on the label. I ordered it and it was delivered. Same stuff....
 
✓ Lacquers – Lacquer paint can be used with an airbrush, however you must thin it using a lacquer-based reducer. Many suggest using a hobby grade lacquer thinner as it's not as "hot" as industrial grade lacquer thinners which can eat plastic and rubber airbrush parts. Lacquers though commonly clear, do come in colors. The main intent behind lacquers is to provide surface protection as they are very durable. That being said, they should be applied thick to provide adequate protection and shine. A potential drawback of applying lacquer using an airbrush is, you may not be able to build up sufficient layer thickness due to the airbrushes need for the material to be thin. A.K.A it will take multiple layers to build up sufficient coverage. If you do airbrush lacquer, keep in mind it is solvent based so be sure to protect yourself with adequate PPE and be sure you have plenty of ventilation.


Using lacquer over a dewaxed shellac is a good way to go. just make sure the shellac is dewaxed and also sanded smooth when done. Let dry before adding lacquer. You need to seal the wood for a better finish.

If you are getting orange peel it can be a few things causing it. One is you did not use a sealer such as dewaxed shellac. need this especially with oily woods such as exotics. next is you are too far away from the project when spraying. next is you are not spraying enough material for the top layer to melt into the lower layer. The acetones in the lacquer melt the layers and thus create a smooth layer. Finally the tip is clogged or the opening is too broad. At times those can spray tips just do not spray well because of this. Spraying with a HVLP gun is a great way to spray a project. But for pen blanks or other small objects rattle cans work well.
Thanks for the writeup, John. Sounds like I'm on the right track.

It is interesting you mention being too far from the project... I always thought I was too close, but maybe not. I have tried to stay about 12" or so away. The cans I've used often say 8-12"... I could try getting a little closer. I haven't checked my nozzles, will do that. I have some lacquer thinner that should clear them up if necessary.

I am mostly working with small things right now. Not pens, but other small things like candle holders, tealight holders, small vases, etc. that are probably fine with a rattle can.
 
We can no longer buy it in California as of the first of the year. One of my buddies was able to order some off of Amazon, and it was delivered. The can looks different and makes a strong reference to furniture refinishing.

I also understand Deft was reformulating to comply with states like California, which means no VOC's, which likely means water-based.

Also, if Colorado is like California we can no longer buy denatured alcohol. But, we can but camping fuel. If you look on Amazon there is denatured alcohol with camping fuel in large letters on the label. I ordered it and it was delivered. Same stuff....
I don't think Colorado is quite as bad as California, I don't think we've outlawed VOC's entirely yet. We have restricted them, though, and its having a devastating effect on availability of most of the oil-based finishing products that have VOCs. I don't know if Amazon is using technology to try and filter out "disallowed" products from users in certain states... Its possible, I guess. Diabolical too. I'm so tired of nanny states.
 
Thanks for the writeup, John. Sounds like I'm on the right track.

It is interesting you mention being too far from the project... I always thought I was too close, but maybe not. I have tried to stay about 12" or so away. The cans I've used often say 8-12"... I could try getting a little closer. I haven't checked my nozzles, will do that. I have some lacquer thinner that should clear them up if necessary.

I am mostly working with small things right now. Not pens, but other small things like candle holders, tealight holders, small vases, etc. that are probably fine with a rattle can.
Here is one of those projects I have made alot of over the years and still on occassion. These small birdhouse ornaments are made from various woods but are all finished in Deft gloss lacquer from rattle cans. I spray them outside because the fumes are toxic when sprayed alot. Never have I sprayed at 12" away. I never measured but would say it is from 6" to 8" away. Each coat is applied so that it is completely wet and no orange peel from lack of product. each coat is dry to touch when next coat is applied. All coats are applied same day and no down time between. They are done in the shade on a low humidity day. No other polishing is needed after they dry and cure for a few days. when smell disappears they are cured. Any small project like this is done the same way with Deft. As I said I also used Watco with same success. After awhile you get a feel for the spray can. Now I have sprayed other projects with waterbase lacquer but for that I use a HVLP spray gun. Now that I probably stay about 12" from because the spray is a greater circumference even choked down. But again it is a feel thing and you see what is happening with your eyes and recognize it. Good luck. By the way one coat of dewaxed shellac under all.
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Here is one of those projects I have made alot of over the years and still on occassion. These small birdhouse ornaments are made from various woods but are all finished in Deft gloss lacquer from rattle cans. I spray them outside because the fumes are toxic when sprayed alot. Never have I sprayed at 12" away. I never measured but would say it is from 6" to 8" away. Each coat is applied so that it is completely wet and no orange peel from lack of product. each coat is dry to touch when next coat is applied. All coats are applied same day and no down time between. They are done in the shade on a low humidity day. No other polishing is needed after they dry and cure for a few days. when smell disappears they are cured. Any small project like this is done the same way with Deft. As I said I also used Watco with same success. After awhile you get a feel for the spray can. Now I have sprayed other projects with waterbase lacquer but for that I use a HVLP spray gun. Now that I probably stay about 12" from because the spray is a greater circumference even choked down. But again it is a feel thing and you see what is happening with your eyes and recognize it. Good luck. By the way one coat of dewaxed shellac under all.View attachment 374871View attachment 374872
Thanks, John!

Love the birdhouses! I've been making a few of those. Mine are not as nice as yours, though. Love the little birds. The lacquer does look great on them.

You mentioned something here that I haven't heard anyone else say about applying lacquer:

Never have I sprayed at 12" away. I never measured but would say it is from 6" to 8" away. Each coat is applied so that it is completely wet and no orange peel from lack of product. each coat is dry to touch when next coat is applied. All coats are applied same day and no down time between. They are done in the shade on a low humidity day.

I hadn't heard about applying so that the product is completely "wet"... Most of the time, I hear that the coats should be "light" and that's what I've done, but usually get orange peel texturing. So this is a big point, and I appreciate you sharing it.

I'm going to do some experimental sprays on some simple rounded pieces of wood, and see how it goes coating them 6-8" away until completely wet as you state. Maybe that is indeed my problem...that I'm actually causing the orange peel texture by not coating fully.

I assume you base coat with some kind of shellac sealer? I was going to do that on my next round of tests a well. Hoping that by sealing, then sanding as smooth as I can, that too will help give the lacquer a smoother surface.
 
Thanks, John!

Love the birdhouses! I've been making a few of those. Mine are not as nice as yours, though. Love the little birds. The lacquer does look great on them.

You mentioned something here that I haven't heard anyone else say about applying lacquer:



I hadn't heard about applying so that the product is completely "wet"... Most of the time, I hear that the coats should be "light" and that's what I've done, but usually get orange peel texturing. So this is a big point, and I appreciate you sharing it.

I'm going to do some experimental sprays on some simple rounded pieces of wood, and see how it goes coating them 6-8" away until completely wet as you state. Maybe that is indeed my problem...that I'm actually causing the orange peel texture by not coating fully.

I assume you base coat with some kind of shellac sealer? I was going to do that on my next round of tests a well. Hoping that by sealing, then sanding as smooth as I can, that too will help give the lacquer a smoother surface.
Yes to both parts of your statement. Yes to using a dewaxed shellac spray underneath. It is a lite coat to seal the wood only. And yes to completely getting each layer wet for lack of a better word. If you spray so far away the droplets are smaller but they are also less in amount. This leaves a bumpy textured feel and not what you want. Now there is a fine line between being too far and too close. You do not want the product running from too much in that now you have drips. Keep the can moving and have a plan as to the way you want to spray. I found lacquer to be very forgiving when being used because each layer does melt into each other. The more layers the greater depth the piece gets.
 
May be a silly question but is there any advantage of spraying over dipping lacquer?
2 things. better control with spray and unless the piece is so small it is not a good idea to dip in a can. You will contaminate the product. My thoughts.
 
Well, I've been playing with lacquer a bit again. Trying to find a good, clear finish that won't change the color of wood. I've tried some other options, and don't care for the results (all water based...meh, can't seem to like this stuff!!)

I had a can of Watco lacquer, which I've never had much luck with, and its pretty much gone here. I have been looking for a can of Deft lacquer spray, that is GLOSS... I cannot seem to find this stuff anywhere. Locally it seems to be gone, I don't know if it is because of changes in Colorado law or something (we've lost a LOT of essential finishing solvents and such due to recent ridiculous changes in law...we can't even get normal mineral spirits anymore, its all this odorless stuff which is just NOT the same!!) Online, I can find plenty of the "Satin" stuff, as well as plenty of the sanding sealer. I just cannot seem to find gloss Deft lacquer spray anywhere...

At least, nowhere I know to look. I'm hoping someone may know of a source where I could pick up some gloss deft lacquer. Assuming, I guess...that there even is such a thing? Maybe Deft doesn't have a gloss finish?
I use Deft gloss lacquer frequently. I spray it on a (blue) paper shop towel and apply it on the lathe. I get it at Home Despot, so I think it's still being made. It may be, as you say, regulated out of existence in your state. Many such restrictions don't make sense but nevertheless the clowns in office have to control everything. It's entirely possible. Hope that you find it. Perhaps you will have better luck searching online. I've been thinking of trying French Polish but it takes many coats. If anyone has experience with it as a pen finish please let me know what you think.
 
I use Deft gloss lacquer frequently. I spray it on a (blue) paper shop towel and apply it on the lathe. I get it at Home Despot, so I think it's still being made. It may be, as you say, regulated out of existence in your state. Many such restrictions don't make sense but nevertheless the clowns in office have to control everything. It's entirely possible. Hope that you find it. Perhaps you will have better luck searching online. I've been thinking of trying French Polish but it takes many coats. If anyone has experience with it as a pen finish please let me know what you think.
Clowns in Office. Never truer words. The inmates do seem to be running the asylum these days.

I think I did find it. Its just called something else now, ProLuxe, but I did notice on the can that it says its the same good ol' Deft formula you know and love. The ProLuxe name is owned by the company that bought the company that once made Deft (which apparently happened quite a long time ago now, as in about 10 years ago, guess it just took them a while to re-brand it.)
 
Clowns in Office. Never truer words. The inmates do seem to be running the asylum these days.

I think I did find it. Its just called something else now, ProLuxe, but I did notice on the can that it says its the same good ol' Deft formula you know and love. The ProLuxe name is owned by the company that bought the company that once made Deft (which apparently happened quite a long time ago now, as in about 10 years ago, guess it just took them a while to re-brand it.)
Glad that you found it ! Home Despot ?
 
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