White spots appearing in CA finish after applying One-Step polish?

[Bad Internet Guy]

Hey all, been noticing recently that after I apply plastic polish to my pens, they end up with one or two white spots after I rub the finish in. Noticing it more on burl blanks, so I was wondering if it was due to voids in the wood maybe? Any ideas as to how I could prevent this? Apologies for the picture quality, couldn't get my phone to focus well.

Thanks in advance!

 

[derekdd]

I see those sometimes, also and they are pin sized pits. The question is, are they on the surface or under the finish?

When I get those, I scrape the polish out with a dental pick then fill with thin CA.

It's pretty frustrating because I use 2 coats of thin CA then 8 coats of medium. You'd think all the small voids and pits would be filled at that point.

 

[egnald]

This is exactly why I stopped using liquid polish after MicroMesh on my blanks. Even the tiniest pinhole in the finish causes those blasted white dots. I had a heck of a time getting them out for repair. On a few, I used a set of wood colored touchup pens - kind of like Sharpie markers made in various wood tones in order to draw in grain on wood filler and to touch up scratches, etc. and just dabbed the tip on the white dot to make it blend in with the wood.

What ultimately solved it for me was to stop using liquid polish and switch over buffing. I started out with one of PSI's buffing systems and soon thereafter bought a Rikon Slow Speed Buffer. I use a tightly sewn cotton wheel with PSI's blue buffing rouge first, followed by a loosely sewn flannel wheel for the final polish. (I am so lazy it was driving me crazy to set up the PSI buffer on my lathe every time I wanted to use it - thus the stand alone Rikon buffer).

What I have found with my current finishing regimen and materials I can often skip the buffing step all together as I find the glossy finish left behind by the final MicroMesh acceptable. And, oh yes, no more white dots!

Here is the setup I use.

Regards,
Dave

PS I hold the blanks at the buffer using my hand on one end and a tapered wooden stick/handle on the other end. I used to leave them on my mandrel and just hold it up to the wheels, but I hated the grey metal marks that got on the wheels. That doesn't happen with a wooden handle.

 

[leehljp]

Dozens of way to experiment with. And one of the reasons I use plastic/foam applicators to apply CA is to get a single smooth thicker layer and much less chance of pin prick size holes. Paper Towel (PT) and 4 - 6 - 8 etc layers will provide more chances of tiny pin holes. Some have become proficient with PT and have no problems with it. I used PT for 3 to 4 years before settling on foam/plastic applicators. I usually complete a good thick layer of CA with one or two layers or three at the most. No pin holes in doing it this way (for me).

 

[derekdd]

Dozens of way to experiment with. And one of the reasons I use plastic/foam applicators to apply CA is to get a single smooth thicker layer and much less chance of pin prick size holes. Paper Towel (PT) and 4 - 6 - 8 etc layers will provide more chances of tiny pin holes. Some have become proficient with PT and have no problems with it. I used PT for 3 to 4 years before settling on foam/plastic applicators. I usually complete a good thick layer of CA with one or two layers or three at the most. No pin holes in doing it this way (for me).

Hank,

Do you mind linking to the type of foam applicators you use?

 

[leehljp]

Hank,

Do you mind linking to the type of foam applicators you use?

Here is the link to foam sheets at Michaels. It has been a couple of years since I bought any because I bought a big pack and only use a dozen or two a year.

Primary Foam Sheets Value Pack by Creatology™ | Michaels

Find the Primary Foam Sheets Value Pack by Creatology™ at Michaels. Your child can use these sheets to create their own foam shapes, or use them as a palette to create new and interesting artwork.

www.michaels.com

Hobby Lobby, Amazon and Walmart have them also. When I run out or LOML takes my stash, I get a margarine tub top and cut two or three squares (just so they are somewhat flexible) and use them. They work fine.

 

[derekdd]

Here is the link to foam sheets at Michaels. It has been a couple of years since I bought any because I bought a big pack and only use a dozen or two a year.

Primary Foam Sheets Value Pack by Creatology™ | Michaels

Find the Primary Foam Sheets Value Pack by Creatology™ at Michaels. Your child can use these sheets to create their own foam shapes, or use them as a palette to create new and interesting artwork.

www.michaels.com

Hobby Lobby, Amazon and Walmart have them also. When I run out or LOML takes my stash, I get a margarine tub top and cut two or three squares (just so they are somewhat flexible) and use them. They work fine.

Brilliant.

Thanks so much!

 

[Woodchipper]

I have used paper towels for years but never applied anything after the final coat of CA glue. So I have never had the white spots and never looked closely for tiny pits.

 

[PenCasso]

This is exactly why I stopped using liquid polish after MicroMesh on my blanks. Even the tiniest pinhole in the finish causes those blasted white dots. I had a heck of a time getting them out for repair. On a few, I used a set of wood colored touchup pens - kind of like Sharpie markers made in various wood tones in order to draw in grain on wood filler and to touch up scratches, etc. and just dabbed the tip on the white dot to make it blend in with the wood.

What ultimately solved it for me was to stop using liquid polish and switch over buffing. I started out with one of PSI's buffing systems and soon thereafter bought a Rikon Slow Speed Buffer. I use a tightly sewn cotton wheel with PSI's blue buffing rouge first, followed by a loosely sewn flannel wheel for the final polish. (I am so lazy it was driving me crazy to set up the PSI buffer on my lathe every time I wanted to use it - thus the stand alone Rikon buffer).

What I have found with my current finishing regimen and materials I can often skip the buffing step all together as I find the glossy finish left behind by the final MicroMesh acceptable. And, oh yes, no more white dots!

Here is the setup I use.

Regards,
Dave

PS I hold the blanks at the buffer using my hand on one end and a tapered wooden stick/handle on the other end. I used to leave them on my mandrel and just hold it up to the wheels, but I hated the grey metal marks that got on the wheels. That doesn't happen with a wooden handle.

View attachment 356631

I have the same buffer!