Hybrid Blank Problem

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RGVPens

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Joined
Oct 4, 2021
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Location
Mission TX
OK folks...what am I doing wrong? The last one chipped the same, managed to save the pen though. I'm using a carbide tool. just barely touching the blank. What's up??
 

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It is hard to see but it looks like some form of delamination. If you made that blank, maybe the resin was already curing before you got to mixing them together? I am far from an expert here but that is my guess.

Or, is that wood where the blue is coming off of it? If so, I would guess that it was poor surface prep of the wood before pouring the acrylic (whomever made it).

Also, when it comes to turning blanks that are delicate, I always take it to my belt sander and round off all of the corners as much as I can before taking it to the lathe. It really helps prevent a lot of the grabbing.
 
Gary; I would try to sand off the corners of the blank and roughly round the corners. Next don't scrap, shear or cut. And lastly, cut from the center toward the ends.

Some have a problem with drilling the blanks and when the drill bit breaks through the end of the blank cracks develop in the blank.
 
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I bought the blanks, haven't gone down the casting rabbit hole.....yet!
No problem drilling, I use my lathe for drilling.
I'll try sanding it more round to start. I'm probably going to get a band saw soon and will make a jig to cut to octagon shape to start. Doing all my blank cutting with my scroll saw now...PIA!
 
I "massaged it" into a useable blank. I think it came out good...but what a process. Does that happen with all hybrids?
 

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No... done correctly they should be very easy to turn. If folks skipped proper stabilizing of the wood, etc you'll get ones that are a bit more finicky. Also, you get a better product by warming the mold/wood prior to pouring and most folks skip that step as well.
 
No... done correctly they should be very easy to turn. If folks skipped proper stabilizing of the wood, etc you'll get ones that are a bit more finicky. Also, you get a better product by warming the mold/wood prior to pouring and most folks skip that step as well.
Glad to know I'm doing correctly, all mine are stabilized and I always warm my mold. :)
 
Glad to know I'm doing correctly, all mine are stabilized and I always warm my mold. :)
Little bit of effort resulting in MUCH better products ;) That museum wax does just fine in the oven at 125-135 degrees FYI. I stick the wood down to HDPE molds with it and warm them prior to pouring. Have not had a single one lift on me in hundreds of casts. (I don't think I've hit thousands with the hybrids... rarely have time to do them lol)
 
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