Delta 46-460 Switch Issues

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jcm71

jcm71

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I have a 2010 Type 1 Delta 46-460. This morning the on off switch started acting up in that when turned on it runs for a second or two then stops. Jiggling the switch has sporadic results. Naturally replacement switches for the type 1 are no longer available. Anyone have any suggestions/ work arounds? Many thanks.

John
 
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A common problem has been buildup of wood dust in the contacts. Unplug the machine and try blowing the switch out with compressed air and see if it improves the situation. If the switch is totally unsalvageable you could rewire around the switch and use one of the available paddle stop type switches mounted somewhere on the machine.
 
Wire around the switch and put the power plug in a multi outlet with a switch. Turn the machine off and on with this switch! Also plug a couple of lights into the multi outlet, so they go on when the lathe goes on.
 
ed4copies said:
Wire around the switch and put the power plug in a multi outlet with a switch. Turn the machine off and on with this switch! Also plug a couple of lights into the multi outlet, so they go on when the lathe goes on.
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I agree with the idea of replacing the built-in switch with an external switching device, but I have an issue with the concept of having the lights come on only when the lathe is turned on.

Lathes are switched on and off frequently, and when the lathe isn't running, the turner is usually either doing something to the turning, or else inspecting it closely to see what needs to be done to it. This requires light. So I think the lights need to be on all the time, not just when the lathe is actually running.

My lathe is plugged into a block of outlets that are set up with a master switch. I also have the lights over and around my lathe plugged into those same outlets so that when I close the master switch, power is available to the lathe and the lights all come on. But then I can switch the lathe on and off independently.

One other thought - I've seen a lot of reports about switch failures on the Delta 46-460 (and also on the Turncrafter that I have although mine seems to be OK for now). The frequency of these complaints leads me to wonder if the switches that are used in these lathes are robust enough for the duty they get. There are also reports that getting replacement parts for Delta lathes is sometimes difficult, and I suspect that retrofitting something other than an OEM replacement would be problematic. So substituting an external switch does seem to be the right answer, and that approach also means that its possible to use something more rugged.
 
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my Delta 46-460 is seven years old and I've replaced the on/off switch twice. Delta part number 5140059-14. My Jet lathe is 5-6 years older than the Delta and I replaced the switch a couple times on it. On the Jet that I only use for buffing I have wired around the switch and plugged the lathe into a foot switch, that works well. Next time the Delta switch goes bad I'll wire around it and use a foot switch.
 
There are so many switches out there that can replace that switch or any other switch. May take some mechanical work to fit or adapt but do not do something that makes you change you way of thinking of starting and stopping a tool that you have been accustomed to for a long time. This becomes a safety hazrd.
 
I had a 46-460 and the on/off switch stopped working all together. Checked Eparts.com for a replacement and found there is a model I and model II. Mine was the model I andthat switch was discontinued. If yous is a model I you will have to do a work around. Good luck.
Turncrazy43
 
jttheclockman said:
There are so many switches out there that can replace that switch or any other switch. May take some mechanical work to fit or adapt but do not do something that makes you change you way of thinking of starting and stopping a tool that you have been accustomed to for a long time. This becomes a safety hazrd.
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John

I agree in principle, but - - - like all good rules, there are exceptions. And as someone noted on another forum yesterday, the rule that says that there is an exception to every rule is obviously flawed because if there is an exception to every rule, then there must be an exception to the rule that there is an exception to every rule.

If you get a new lathe, the on/off switch will likely be in a new location. When I went from the minilathe to the midilathe, I had to train myself to know that the switch and speed control on the new machine were at the tailstock end rather than at the headstock end. It took a while, especially since I am old and untrainable, but eventually the message got through that I had to use my right hand rather than my left hand. So I think that if you have a defective switch on a lathe, you can adapt to a replacement that is not in the same location as the original.

On the other hand, I am concerned about those lathes that 'feature' a movable control module that can attach magnetically wherever the operator chooses to have it. In that scenario, the switch could be in a different location every time the lathe is used. I think that could be hazardous.
 
Thanks, Gary.
Chasper said:
my Delta 46-460 is seven years old and I've replaced the on/off switch twice. Delta part number 5140059-14. My Jet lathe is 5-6 years older than the Delta and I replaced the switch a couple times on it. On the Jet that I only use for buffing I have wired around the switch and plugged the lathe into a foot switch, that works well. Next time the Delta switch goes bad I'll wire around it and use a foot switch.
Click to expand...
Same part number as mine, Gerry. Just can't find anyone who sells them. I like the idea of a foot switch. Wayne, mine is a type 1, so eventually I'll be doing the work around. Thank you for the responses and suggestions, guys.
 
Not a big fan of foot operated switches. Too many bad things can happen. Accidental stepping on while hands are in the path of a spinning object. Not quite set up to operation and accidentally step on foot switch. Now I have a foot switch on my 3 scrollsaws but those are tools that are constantly being turned on and off especially when doing fret work. All that switching will break down a switch. Plus you are sitting in one position while you saw and no movement with body just hands. Again change you work habits and you add to a hazard list but good luck. Work safe.
 
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