Bowl versus spindle gouge?

[pshrynk]

I just got a sharpening jig to use with my grinder, so I'm excited about getting started on that. I was also looking for more tools because shiny, and read somewhere in bold letters to not use a spindle gouge on a bowl. So any clue as to why? and what is the difference?

 

[JimB]

Most likely what you were reading about is a spindle roughing gouge. That is correct, never, ever, ever use a roughing gouge on a bowl. When a bowl blank is mounted in 'typical' bowl blank orientation you are turning both side grain and end grain. You can get a a very bad catch. So bad it could potentially bend, even snap the roughing gouge where the steal is flat going into the handle ( the tang ).

 

[JimB]

There are also spindle gouges and detail gouges. They look like bowl gouges and are made from round bar stock like bowl gouges. These have shallow flutes. Bowl gouges have deep flutes.

 

[bmachin]

Here are a couple of videos from Stuart Batty on Vimeo and YouTube that address your question and much much more.

Stuart is a great teacher. Beware: each of these is about an hour and a half long but well worth your time IMHO.

Bill

 

[mark james]

I'll second the videos from Stuart Batty - I believe a former tool designer for Sorby, as well as his own line of very expensive/impressive tools.

 

[donstephan]

A cross section of a spindle gouge, detail gouge, shallow detail gouge will show that the surface of the flute is an arc of a circle. A cross section of a bowl gouge will show that the surface of the flute is either a U shape, a V shape, or a parabolic shape. The height from the bottom of the bar to the top of the flute on the spindle gouge family is shorter than the height from the bottom of the bar to the top of the flute on bowl gouges, so bowl gouges are much stronger.

General recommendation I've seen is never to use a spindle roughing gouge anywhere on a bowl, or any of the spindle gouge family on the inside of a bowl.

 

[pshrynk]

Thanks to everyone for their answers. I am much better informed. Spent a few hours this weekend fixing my grinder up with the jigs. Then found out that the tools I've been using have short shanks, so I ended up eyeballing the sharpening anyway! But I do have some new tools coming from Exotic Blanks. I get mixed messages that I should sharpen and hone or hone or just use them right out of the box. Thoughts? (Probably going to go ahead and sharpen and hone, just to use my new toy, but still...)

 

[Charlie_W]

Thanks to everyone for their answers. I am much better informed. Spent a few hours this weekend fixing my grinder up with the jigs. Then found out that the tools I've been using have short shanks, so I ended up eyeballing the sharpening anyway! But I do have some new tools coming from Exotic Blanks. I get mixed messages that I should sharpen and hone or hone or just use them right out of the box. Thoughts? (Probably going to go ahead and sharpen and hone, just to use my new toy, but still...)

In general, most lathe chisels will need final sharpening when purchased.....and may be reground to desired shape/profile. Some will come ready to use.
I do hone after grinding and then hone many times before needing to return to the grinder.
Quality tools should last you a long long time.

 

[Woodchipper]

I have a low speed grinder with a Wolverine jig and hit the tool for a couple of seconds before I turn. After that, I hit the edge with a DMT diamond file. Had a club demo and the fellow used a fine diamond file.