Anchor seal?

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There are alternatives. I am not sure they are as good or better but I have known people who swear by them.

A 50/50 mix of carpenters glue and water.

Paraffin wax- some like a little mineral oil mixed in.

I have used the wax on blank sized boards and have looked at it gloomily on larger boards I have purchased.

Latex paint works but you have to watch it and recoat. I used this on lots of boards in my younger days.

And some use oil bast paint.
 
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I have used straight wood glue on small-ish pieces (10-15 inches in diameter, oak, maple, and sycamore) and it has worked for me, no end checking. I typically apply it 2-3 times in liberal amounts and letting it dry 24 hours between coats.

Fred
 
dogcatcher said:
Anchor Seal is basically a liquefied version of paraffin. I usually use latex paint, there is always part can of it around the shop.
Click to expand...

Here is an older thread, but the comments are still useful.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?68306-Anchorseal-vs-Latex-Paint.

Many variables: How thick is the timber, has the Pith been removed, how have the cuts been done, is the wood green or semi-dryed, etc...

I got a bunch of smaller Black Walnut sections (3"-8" round x 12") about 4 years ago (1 mile from my house), anchor sealed them, and about 75% are are useable for turning.
 
I know you said something similar to Anchor Seal at a big box store but what came to mind that I have wanted to try is from Craft Supplies USA. It's called "Tree Saver" reportedly helps dry green wood 50% faster than other products. Comes in several sizes and from past experience shipping in very fast.

Oh you go to the Craft Supply website just search for Tree Saver.
 
A person in my neighborhood cut down a cedar tree last week and set some of it out on the street for whomever. I grabbed it. Some of it has been split, which sucks, but still nice sized pieces. Should I just try and use them asap before they crack?
 
Aces-High said:
A person in my neighborhood cut down a cedar tree last week and set some of it out on the street for whomever. I grabbed it. Some of it has been split, which sucks, but still nice sized pieces. Should I just try and use them asap before they crack?
Click to expand...

If for pen blank size, you could cut then into slightly oversize 1" x 7" and let them air dry knowing that some will crack and warp. Others have also used their microwave to dry (different methods have been mentioned). If for larger pieces, then yes, turn wet to rough form. Again, many techniques available.

I'd suspect you have very little time to decide before nature takes it course.
 
Cutting between the splits will get you blank that probably wont do any more splitting. Be cautious turning bowls from the cedar, they have a tendency to come apart while turning, but worth the effort.
 
Here in AZ or other hot, sunny climates, you can use your backyard barbecue for a "sun kiln." I cut the blanks slightly oversize and seal the ends, then lay them on a rack (not the grill surface itself) and set the grill in a sunny spot in the yard. Instant wood kiln.
 
Pentacryl

I'm glad I looked at this thread because I harvested a fallen maple and never thought about treating the end grain to prevent cracking. I'll have to check to make sure it's not too late.

I just found a viable alternative to Anchor Seal and it's called Pentacryl.

See this video on YouTube -
Ron Calverley
Published on Jun 8, 2013
Treating green wood with "Pentacryl Wood Stabilizer" to prevent cracking.
It really works!
 
I typically use leftover wax from various products, cheese, candles etc. on the end grain, or wood glue if I am out of wax. Seems to work well for me. For bowls that I have turned wet I tend to coat completely with the cheapest white wood glue I can find. Only done a little over a dozen but none of them have cracked on me yet.
 
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