Boreing Bars
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JimB
Member
Can't you use a drill bit? Maybe I don't understand what you are trying to do.
flyitfast
Member
I'm not familiar with "boring bar" as you describe it.
I agree with JimB, it sounds like you need a 3/8" standard drill bit.
If you drill on the lathe, you can put the whole very straight at whatever depth you need.
Gordon
I agree with JimB, it sounds like you need a 3/8" standard drill bit.
If you drill on the lathe, you can put the whole very straight at whatever depth you need.
Gordon
Monty
Group Buy Coordinator
And if what you want is a flat bottom hole, try a 3/8" forstner bit.
duncsuss
Member
I haven't used a boring bar (I don't have a metal lathe) but my go-to place for buying this kind of stuff is Enco (owned by MSC). Their site has a decent set of filters, it looks like for a bar capable of boring as small as 3/8" the maximum depth would be 1-7/8".
Link HERE
Other vendors might have one that can reach deeper, but it's a place to start.
Link HERE
Other vendors might have one that can reach deeper, but it's a place to start.
KenV
Member
Blind Hole I presume -- other wise I would drill and use a reamer (chucking reamers are in my tool box).
That is a lot of small bar hanging out there. I looked at Shars and for a 3/8 hole, they spec to 1 7/8 and I suspect the last half inch will be a bit challenging with chatter.
That is a lot of small bar hanging out there. I looked at Shars and for a 3/8 hole, they spec to 1 7/8 and I suspect the last half inch will be a bit challenging with chatter.
Penultimate
Member
Boring bars are sized by the smallest hole that they can fit in. A boring bar is used to size a hole bored by a drill or reamer. I use a boring bar size the opening of kitless pen caps.
EBay, LMC.con are a good sources for boring bars.
Good luck.
EBay, LMC.con are a good sources for boring bars.
Good luck.
Paul in OKC
Member
They make them. But for that diameter/depth combo they get a bit pricey, like up to $100, but that is for one with index-able carbide inserts. You could try an end mill and use it like a boring bar, but for the depth would not be the easiest.
0.285 Inch Min Bore Diameter, 1/4 Inch Shank 82553447 - MSC is one, plus inserts. Carbide inserts may not be the best way to go for acrylics in that small diameter, though.
You could do this 3/8 Inch Shank Diameter, 3/16 to 3/8 Inch 08061509 - MSC and do a little extra clearance grinding on the one that reaches the farthest. Good luck!
0.285 Inch Min Bore Diameter, 1/4 Inch Shank 82553447 - MSC is one, plus inserts. Carbide inserts may not be the best way to go for acrylics in that small diameter, though.
You could do this 3/8 Inch Shank Diameter, 3/16 to 3/8 Inch 08061509 - MSC and do a little extra clearance grinding on the one that reaches the farthest. Good luck!
Whatsize is your tool holder ?
Is it a quick change with a round shank or square ?SHARS 5 16 x 4" RH SCLCR Indexable Boring Bar Holder CCMT New | eBay
Is it a quick change with a round shank or square ?SHARS 5 16 x 4" RH SCLCR Indexable Boring Bar Holder CCMT New | eBay
jalbert
Member
I own that boring bar, and it will do what you want it to. The shank is round with a flat cut on the top. I use it in quick change tool holders with a 3/8" diameter hole, so I had to turn a little adapter for the shank of this boring bar.
Thanks for all the pointers, suppliers and links. I was going around in circles searching with no success; must not have been using the right key words?
I'm trying to machine a bore smooth enough to work with a piston and o-ring seal. A reamer might be a better option, but not as versatile.
Much appreciated
.
I'm trying to machine a bore smooth enough to work with a piston and o-ring seal. A reamer might be a better option, but not as versatile.
Much appreciated
.
target64
Member
You can get an 3/8 diameter boring bar set at littlemachineshop.com for about $20 dollars. Item number 1246
Paul in OKC
Member
Might just drill close to size and polish.
Boring bars
I have a couple dozen boring bars , and I have live cutters set up on two of my lathes from live cutting threads to tapering and machining wood parts .
I grind mine some of my boring bars to make them the size I want ...and to make sure they are sharp and will not vibrate or chatter while cutting the wood .
All the holes I start are cut with a drill bit , I use a 5/16 3 fluted bit for the SS steel 3x10 pin I set in my pool cues wood to wood joints.
I am drilling setting a 3in stainless steel pin to less then 0.003 run out on every cue I make .. .
The drill bit is a 3 fluted carbide bit I put in my tail stock .
Very special bit , to do one pacific job .
No offence to anyone but a production goes if given the choice of drilling to size or using a boring bar and boring to size , I would go with the drill bit .
The one and only pen making arbor and collets kit I bought and the drill bit was bent ..
I believe the kit had been returned that I had got .
Straight Up I only buy certain drill bits for certain jobs..
The market is flooded with cheap POS drill bits .
I buy allot of my stuff from machine shop supply companies direct.
And I think my money goes farther that way and I get higher quality cutting bits and drill bits ...
I ended up buy three arbors to find one company the sells one that is actually runs true .
Getting the right tools for the job is extremely important when it comes to machining fine cuts .
PS good example of shooting wide open or the lenses lowest F stops, make for a extremely shallow or thin focal plane.
Everything before and behind the saw blade which by taking this photo I realized I had mounded the saw blade on backwards is out of focus .
Which isn't the normal if you are doing pen photography ( F 9 to F 11 )
I swear I can do some Dumb @ss stuff at times.
Machine safely ... because all these open saws a router bits and lathe spinning around make me nervous .
If its that big of a issue you could use a reamer ??????
I have a couple dozen boring bars , and I have live cutters set up on two of my lathes from live cutting threads to tapering and machining wood parts .
I grind mine some of my boring bars to make them the size I want ...and to make sure they are sharp and will not vibrate or chatter while cutting the wood .
All the holes I start are cut with a drill bit , I use a 5/16 3 fluted bit for the SS steel 3x10 pin I set in my pool cues wood to wood joints.
I am drilling setting a 3in stainless steel pin to less then 0.003 run out on every cue I make .. .
The drill bit is a 3 fluted carbide bit I put in my tail stock .
Very special bit , to do one pacific job .
No offence to anyone but a production goes if given the choice of drilling to size or using a boring bar and boring to size , I would go with the drill bit .
The one and only pen making arbor and collets kit I bought and the drill bit was bent ..
I believe the kit had been returned that I had got .
Straight Up I only buy certain drill bits for certain jobs..
The market is flooded with cheap POS drill bits .
I buy allot of my stuff from machine shop supply companies direct.
And I think my money goes farther that way and I get higher quality cutting bits and drill bits ...
I ended up buy three arbors to find one company the sells one that is actually runs true .
Getting the right tools for the job is extremely important when it comes to machining fine cuts .
PS good example of shooting wide open or the lenses lowest F stops, make for a extremely shallow or thin focal plane.
Everything before and behind the saw blade which by taking this photo I realized I had mounded the saw blade on backwards is out of focus .
Which isn't the normal if you are doing pen photography ( F 9 to F 11 )
I swear I can do some Dumb @ss stuff at times.
Machine safely ... because all these open saws a router bits and lathe spinning around make me nervous .
If its that big of a issue you could use a reamer ??????
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