Alternative trimming methods

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putnamm

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1. I've decided I don't like the pen mill. It's too rough, and with the more sensitive woods it tends to chip and scar the edges of my blanks. I also don't care to use it on acrylics.

2. I would prefer to use sanding. I have sanded the ends of some blanks by hand, but they come out uneven. I don't have the money for an upright disc sander right now.

3. I've seen suggestions for using the lathe with a sanding disc, and I know there is a very popular solution out there for doing this that is inexpensive. However, I also currently use my lathe for blank preparation, turning and finishing. I'd prefer not to add one more function to the lathe in order to limit the number of tool changes, etc. I'm doing on it at any given time.

So... Are there any alternative methods for trimming blanks that you might recommend?

One idea that I had (and wonder if anyone has tried) is using a Dremel tool with a sanding disc attachment. It seems that this would be small and nimble enough to allow for sufficient control and ensure you don't over-sand. Granded, there is an issue with evenness. Any thoughts on this?
 
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I should have explained more. The black square is sandpaper. Use a finer grit like 400 during finishing to remove CA from the ends. Use coarser grit such as 150 to square a blank before turning.

I use the HF punch set in the tailstock with a HF Jacobs chuck to hold the blank square to the sanding jig.

Also, have you sharpened your pen mill? I sharpen mine frequently to prevent tear out.
 
I converted to the method Jim described a few pens ago. I like it way better than the pen mills, should have converted long ago. It's cheap, and effective. Yes, it's one more tool change-out in the process, but it helps produce higher-quality results, and it's only a couple minutes to change out.
 
I use the pen mill, but not the cutting Side. Turn it around so the flat side is against your blank. This allows you to still use the correct size reamer so its straight. Use some adhesive backed sandpaper and place the mill in a hand drill. Save yourself some time and buy 6" discs or whatever, cut them into 3/4" squares, and punch out the center with a single hole punch. Its a perfect fit, doesn't chip, and gives you lots of control. Hope that makes sense.
 
I sand and use a pen mill. Since I do not like sanding dust I cut my blanks just a hair or two longer than the brass tube. I then use my disk sander to square up the blanks. In the event I make the blanks a bit long for the tube I do use the pen mill to get close as possible to the brass and then finish with the sander. I think my sanding disks are about 100 grit. I forget as I throw away the wrapper after using the last disk. I get the disks from HF (cheap) and discard readily. I do use the rubber eraser stick a couple of times.

I do have a bit of irritation. I ruined my pen mill when I ran it into a machine vise. Won't say how that happened. I purchased a new mill from CSUSA. I received it yesterday and find the shanks for the old mill are too large for the new mill. If it were not for having a metal lathe I would have had to purchase an entire set. I understand vendors making their products proprietary but it was still an inconvenience. Everything is working now.
 
I use a set-up similar to what Jim posted...for me it is the best way to go. Much better than pen mill and have used in on over 2500 pens since Curtis first turned me on to this method about 5 years ago
 
jmbaker79 said:
I use the pen mill, but not the cutting Side. Turn it around so the flat side is against your blank. This allows you to still use the correct size reamer so its straight. Use some adhesive backed sandpaper and place the mill in a hand drill. Save yourself some time and buy 6" discs or whatever, cut them into 3/4" squares, and punch out the center with a single hole punch. Its a perfect fit, doesn't chip, and gives you lots of control. Hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...

I think this is a GREAT idea !!!!
 
Someone posted over a year ago posted something about using a parting tool or some other type of chisel to square his blanks. I, frankly did not understand what he did, but that's my fault/lack of understanding. Having said that, I use a Rick's offset sanding jig (after not have long-term success with both the steel and carbide trimmers). I have seen another member, use a barrel trimmer on his bench top drill press. It worked every time I saw him do it. I don't have the "guts" to try that myself despite witnessing the results.
 
jmbaker79 said:
I use the pen mill, but not the cutting Side. Turn it around so the flat side is against your blank. This allows you to still use the correct size reamer so its straight. Use some adhesive backed sandpaper and place the mill in a hand drill. Save yourself some time and buy 6" discs or whatever, cut them into 3/4" squares, and punch out the center with a single hole punch. Its a perfect fit, doesn't chip, and gives you lots of control. Hope that makes sense.
Click to expand...

That's some of the best advice I have heard in a long time. I will have to tell my sources about this.
thanks
 
Rink said:
I converted to the method Jim described a few pens ago. I like it way better than the pen mills, should have converted long ago. It's cheap, and effective. Yes, it's one more tool change-out in the process, but it helps produce higher-quality results, and it's only a couple minutes to change out.
Click to expand...

X2.
 
I use one of my old HSS thicknes planer blades. After grinding the sharp edges off I cut to length and ground the end to slightly less than 60 deg. I trim the blank as close as possible to the brass without actually cutting the brass then turn the blank to round and oversize using my TBC bushings. I then remove the bushing at the tailstock and run the tailstock into the blank. Assuming the brass tube was cut square to begin with the live center will rest squarely on the inside of the brass tube. If there is to much blank material the center will come to rest as the material is removed. I then angle the toolrest so there is as little space as possible between it and the blank. I then turn the parting tool I made on it's side (90 deg from the way you would normally use a parting tool) and shave away the blank material at the end. Check for square turn the blank around and do the other end.
Been squaring my blanks this way with good results for 5 years or so now since the first pen mill I bought went dull.
 
"I have seen another member, use a barrel trimmer on his bench top drill press. It worked every time I saw him do it. I don't have the "guts" to try that myself despite witnessing the results."

I have done this a number of times with great results. If the blank is shorter than pen mill shaft I place a scrap piece of wood with appropriate drilled hole underneath the blank. I then hold the blank with a pair of pliers as I advance and retract the quill. You can better control the feed and minimize/eliminate any tear out. If I do have tear out, I trim on the disk sander.
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I too approach the trimming job with sandpaper on a wood faceplate with the HF punches in the tail stock. I trim on the band saw as close as I can to the brass tube then chamfer the wood or acrylic so that the TBC parts don't crack it due to a wedge effect, I use an Exacto or my pocket knife to do the chamfering. I broke too many pens trying to use the trimmer and finally turned it around as stated prior and that evolved to the faceplate approach; easier to change the sandpaper and use bigger pieces.
WB
 
I decided recently that I was going to up my pen game. To me its not about setup time or how many steps it take but about getting the best pen I can make. I have had a hard time with the barrel trimmer. Like the OP I did not like the results. I started cutting close with a band saw then sanding on punch attached to drill chuck in tailstock. However, the best investment I have made was Rick's offset jig. I just got it earlier this month with His generous bash discount. I think this has to be the best method to get a square blank.
 
I use a carbide barrel trimmer in my drill press for everything except burls and segmented pens. I take light cuts and never have any issues.

For the burls and segmented pens I use the lathe with just my punch in a jacobs chuck in the tailstock. I can just re-seat the adhesive backed sandpaper so I didn't feel the need for the offset jig.

I get similar results with both the trimmer and sanding, but the sanding takes way too long in my opinion so I only use it on the more delicate blanks.
 
I agree 100% with what Keith just said. I do the same thing. Carbide trimmer is the way to go if you are using one. 4 to 6 cutters is ideal and not 2. Delicate blanks sand on the lathe with face plate. No need for off set jigs. Just move the sandpaper around. Simple and works every time.
 
I use the 6 flute barrel trimmer from Rockler in my drill press and never have a problem.

It almost creates a polished finish.
 
I trim them to about 1/8" shy of the brass with my miter saw and then use Rick Harrell's Offset Squaring Jig to finish the job. It's quick, easy, and accurate.
 
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