Replacing a Spindle

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Drewboy22

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San Antonio, Tx
I have started to notice a bit of a wobble in my mandrels, chucks and what-nots. I am starting to thing it is my spindle in the headstock. I have done some research and i have found some bearings and c-clips but the spindle appears to be unobtainable.

The below link is one of the conversations I found and even though it is 10 years old, some of the info was good. I am looking for a Spindle for my Craftsman lathe - Sears Part #56611.

http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/need-find-spindle-my-lathe-kinda-long-pos-19937/index2.html

Does anyone have a good one laying around they would be willing to sell, or is it possible to talk one of you metal lathe guys into making one? (I dont know what that would cost or if it is even doable).

Any help?

Thanks,

Drew
 
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Seldom is it the spindle. Bearings normally fail several times before a spindle goes ( barring huge abuse or hugely massive catches).

A machine shop can make a new spindle, but it is usually not cost effective.

Replacing bearings is pretty low cost.
 
Post a pic of your headstock if you get a chance. I have three Craftsman headstocks that I saved for parts when I tore down my old garage last year. Two are 50's vintage and one is 70's vintage. All have #1 Morse tapers and 3/4"x16tpi threads. The older Craftsman lathes have sleeve bearings so it is possible to have bent a spindle but I still kind of doubt it.
 
There is a model number somewhere on the lathe, it will start with 113. Find it and search eBay for lathe parts. Several sellers of old lathes on eBay. A spindle for this one should be in the neighborhood of $30. You might even find an entire headstock.

But truthfully, I wouldn't spend money fixing it. As is with the wobble you could make it into a dedicated buffing lathe. Run it until it dies and then sell it for scrap.
 
Thanks guys, I will take pics tomorrow morning.

As for a buffing only station... Its the only lathe I got, so if I did that I would not be able to make pens to buff on it :)
 
KenV said:
Seldom is it the spindle. Bearings normally fail several times before a spindle goes ( barring huge abuse or hugely massive catches).

A machine shop can make a new spindle, but it is usually not cost effective.

Replacing bearings is pretty low cost.
Click to expand...
I guess I will have to tear it apart first. thanks for the advice.
DigBaddy72 said:
Have you tried ereplacementparts.com ? I found some parts for my old scrollsaw there. I also found some parts for my shop fox lathe.
Click to expand...

I have not but I will, thanks
 
Here are a few pics. I was able to get the spindle out without much issue. The bearings on the other hand were not so easy, but I did get them off. I am going to replace the bearings AND I am trying to figure out how to make sure the spindle is true.

When I took the belt off the pulleys I could still see some movement in the tip of the spindle when I spun it.

Ideas?

20160113_064200_resized_zpskvcenfyl.jpg


20160113_064150_resized_zpsczmyvgpi.jpg


20160112_154701_resized_zpspqhy6xqy.jpg


20160113_064143_resized_zpsjnf18czd.jpg
 
Do you know anyone with a metal lathe? Or another woodturner that has a collet chuck that you can chuck up the spindle in? Either way will let you know if the spindle is bent. If it is bent send me a PM.
 
Drew,

If you roll the spindle (behind the collar) on a really flat surface, you can tell pretty fast if there is a significant bend in the swivel. Tablesaw table can work, but better is a granite surface plate. A light behind the spindle will show through the inside of the bend.

Those appear to be standard bearings

Look for the bearing numbers on the existing bearings.
 
I don't have any advice re your spindle change, but just finished today changing the spindle in my Jet 1442... it was still turning true, but the e-ring keeper at held the Reeves pulley in place kept slipping out of the groove... and allowed the belt pulley to slip up against the side of the housing and would stop the lathe.... the slot had become wallowed out to the point the edges were rounded over and couldn't hold the keeper ring... while I had it torn down, I changed the bearings as well. Runs pretty smooth, but I got my speed lever out of position or something... it bottoms out at the 450 speed which is the lowest on this lathe, but the indicator lever is set on the 850 mark.... it changes speeds correctly, but the indicator lever is 400 rpms off...:frown:
I'll work with that until I get the ambition to tear it down again and see if I can re-adjust that.
 
KenV said:
Drew,

If you roll the spindle (behind the collar) on a really flat surface, you can tell pretty fast if there is a significant bend in the swivel. Tablesaw table can work, but better is a granite surface plate. A light behind the spindle will show through the inside of the bend.

Those appear to be standard bearings

Look for the bearing numbers on the existing bearings.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the ideas Ken. I'm breaking out a flashlight and looking for a flat surface. I got a table, so we will see how that works
 
Update:

I got new bearings this afternoon and got them installed. I still notice a slight wobble with a nova G3 chuck on the spindle. I have the chuck on because without it it's not as noticeable. I am uploading a vid to YouTube but would love to send the unfiltered version to any who might be able help via email or text

http://youtu.be/tZy-0bxfWQo

Thanks

Drew
 
With Small Bottle Stopper Chuck

Sans Chuck

With Centers

Something I was thinking about is could it be the threads on the spindle are worn and causing it to be off??? It does not appear to be that off when you are looking at centers.

If I were to get another spindle made - what type of metal is commonly used for these spindles? and if I have one made... Would it be beneficial to have it made with 1X8 threads instead of 3/4 X 16? then I can get rid of the adapter.
 
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Does the chuck seat firmly against the 'round' part of the spindle? that is, the chuck threads onto the threads and then buts up against that round part...if that's not straight, then that's your problem...

Do you have a dial indicator? With that, you could move down the spindle until you find your issue (or lack thereof)
 
From what I can see the nose of the spindle, threaded portion, is bent. Adding the chuck adapter makes things worse because of the extra length. Having a new spindle made may cost up to two hundred bucks depending on the shops in your area. A cheap headstock to salvage the spindle from might be better but it might have the same issues. If you do make a new one get the 1 x 8 threads on it but give them your chuck and a new faceplate to get the fit right. You might find that it would be better to look for another bench lathe and just get the pain over with.
 
Drew

That lathe was made before chucks were common, and was never designed or intended to have a "massive" (for that lathe) amount of steel hanging out there.

It was a spindle lathe. The MT is running fairly true and will support pen mandrel or turning-between-centers.

You can put a lot of money and time in, and it will still be a spindle lathe.
 
KenV said:
Drew

That lathe was made before chucks were common, and was never designed or intended to have a "massive" (for that lathe) amount of steel hanging out there.

It was a spindle lathe. The MT is running fairly true and will support pen mandrel or turning-between-centers.

You can put a lot of money and time in, and it will still be a spindle lathe.
Click to expand...

That nailed it. I am guessing the face on the spindle must be off a hair. Only way I know to check it to use an indicator dial on the face of the spindle to check it.
 
Well, a buddy of mine came through and he is going to make me a new spindle. So, what type of metal do we need to use, and is their anything we need to look out for?
 
Drew,

Most lathe spindles are heat treated (hardened). Not all, but the ones that are not heat treated are pretty herky.

If heat treated, that will drive the steel choice.

If not heat treated, any good machining steel will work, but it will be fairly dinkable and dentable

If you want a morse taper, that will likely require purchase of a pair of reamers. The small space for the shaft will probably mean mt1.



As was suggested above, getting a 1by 8 threaded head stock will be an improvement and using an existing head stock to copy will be good. The threads do not extend up to the collar face.
 
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KenV said:
Drew,

Most lathe spindles are heat treated (hardened). Not all, but the ones that are not heat treated are pretty herky.

If heat treated, that will drive the steel choice.

If not heat treated, any good machining steel will work, but it will be fairly dinkable and dentable

If you want a morse taper, that will likely require purchase of a pair of reamers. The small space for the shaft will probably mean mt1.



As was suggested above, getting a 1by 8 threaded head stock will be an improvement and using an existing head stock to copy will be good. The threads do not extend up to the collar face.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Ken. This guys supposedly has everything needed but I didn't know what metal was best to use. Apparently, "The hard Kind" was not the correct answer :) What about Stainless Steel?

He will be making me a 3/4 spindle shaft up to the "collar" and will put a 1x8tpi after the collar. and put in a mt1.
 
Drew, sounds like he knows machinist work. I suggest you leave the steel choice to join.

Where I live in Alaska, it would be in the $300 range to have such a custom machine job done and more with a difficult to machine steel.

Ask for a "tough" steel as wear and tear will be an ongoing issue.

Note that you will still not have a heavy duty lathe even if you put a new spindle in it.
 
KenV said:
Drew

That lathe was made before chucks were common, and was never designed or intended to have a "massive" (for that lathe) amount of steel hanging out there.

It was a spindle lathe. The MT is running fairly true and will support pen mandrel or turning-between-centers.

You can put a lot of money and time in, and it will still be a spindle lathe.
Click to expand...
Actually Sears sold both a 4 Jaw Independent Chuck and a 3 jaw scroll chuck for the model before this one - which had a flat bed and was made by King Seeley. I had that lathe for a lot of years (bought it new in 1955 with my paper route money) and then over time bought a lot of accessories for it including the 4 jaw chuck). I had an indicator and the chuck and faceplates ran true within a couple of thou. I had it until 1998.
 
Ernie

I should have been more explicit to the 4 jaw scroll chucks that became popular in the last couple of decades, especially for turning bowls and such.

Small machinists chucks have been used on lathes for a long time.

My Bonnie Klein lathe dates back to the 80's before the midi and minis came on the scene and that was based on a Taig machinist head stock






oneleggimp said:
KenV said:
Drew

That lathe was made before chucks were common, and was never designed or intended to have a "massive" (for that lathe) amount of steel hanging out there.

It was a spindle lathe. The MT is running fairly true and will support pen mandrel or turning-between-centers.

You can put a lot of money and time in, and it will still be a spindle lathe.
Click to expand...
Actually Sears sold both a 4 Jaw Independent Chuck and a 3 jaw scroll chuck for the model before this one - which had a flat bed and was made by King Seeley. I had that lathe for a lot of years (bought it new in 1955 with my paper route money) and then over time bought a lot of accessories for it including the 4 jaw chuck). I had an indicator and the chuck and faceplates ran true within a couple of thou. I had it until 1998.
Click to expand...
 
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