Advice on wood

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Kragax

Kragax

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Messages
280
Location
western new york
As I now have several slimlines under my belt, I want to try a 10mm Big Ben. I have been turning rosewood which I really don't care for. I am asking for your advice on a good hardwood that turns well for a relative beginner. I have been looking toward cocabola, but I would like the advice of those more knowledgeable than myself.
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Hi Craig,

I agree that Olivewood turns nicely. It can be a little temperamental to finish with CA. If you use another finish you will likely be fine.
Cocabola turns nicely and is an oily wood, like olivewood, so it might have the same issues with a CA finish. Also, be aware, that it seems to be somewhat common for woodworkers to have allergic/rash issues with cocabola. If not at first, the reaction can develoep after repeated exposures. So, make sure you take some precautions from the chips and dust.
Oh - and I am not saying they these 2 woods can't be finished with CA, just that it might take some practice.

Some nicely figured walnut can look really nice, and turn pretty well.

Dave
 
as already mentioned Maple, Cherry, olivewood, plus brazilian walnut (imbuia), ash, pine although its soft, hickory, box elder. All of these woods turn easily. On the olive wood, cocobolo etc because of the oil - after sanding and before finishing and while still spinning I generally wipe down with alcohol - let it continue to spin for a couple minutes to evaporate the alcohol and finish!
Alcohol helps remove the oils and the dust that may show up as white specks in your finish.
 
I've made some stunning pens with basic Bloodwood. It's cheap, and with a CA finish it really brings out a nice color.
 
3rd Rockfromthesun said:
I have some Bethlehem Olivewood, keithbyrd mentioned alcohol for the wipe down. What kind of alcohol? Thanks
Click to expand...

I use regular rubbing alcohol - I think it is called Isopropyl? Just a light application with a paper towel while it is spinning at around 500 RPM. Then I let it continue to spin for a few minutes 4-5, and go ahead and finish as planned.

Here is the definition from wikipedia:
Rubbing alcohol, USP / Surgical spirit, B.P. is a liquid prepared and used primarily for topical application. It is prepared from a special denatured alcohol solution and contains approximately 70 percent by volume of pure, concentrated ethanol (ethyl alcohol) or isopropyl alcohol (propan-2-ol).
 
3rd Rockfromthesun said:
I have some Bethlehem Olivewood, keithbyrd mentioned alcohol for the wipe down. What kind of alcohol? Thanks
Click to expand...

Nothing at all wrong with regular rubbing alcohol as Keith suggested. Only thing is that it starts out at 30% water and generally absorbs more from the air if the bottle stands open. That's why it's a good idea to let the blank spin a while before proceeding with your finish, to give the water time to evaporate.

I buy denatured alcohol (known as DNA around here) in gallon cans and pour small amounts into 2 or 3 oz squeeze bottles. Water content of DNA is only 3-5%, so you don't need to wait as long for the water to evaporate. I also use it on all my wood blanks - not just the oily ones. It helps to clean up any residual sanding dust prior to finishing.

DNA will absorb water from the atmosphere also, so you want to keep the can closed at all times except when pouring into the squeeze bottles.

FWIW, I also buy acetone by the gallon can & keep a squeeze bottle of that near my lathe for CA cleanup. I taped a big label to each bottle so I don't get them mixed up.
 
Everyone's different (Thank goodness!) When I was starting out and did a different pen style...I used some reclaimed wood (usually oak) from firewood pile, so I could "try" it out before buying a blank. When I was confident enough with that style, I then would spend money on a blank to work with. Tubes are cheap :)
 
Kragax said:
I'm using a friction polish for now. Will have to work up to CA.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with using friction polish. I never got away from it. Tried CA and stopped for several reasons. You'll know what to do.
There are a a lot of nice woods available. Experiment. Test fit the brass before gluing. Wood does not drill out as clean as acrylic. I inserted tubes with glue go half way in and stop. They in are in the scrap bin.
 
WriteON said:
Kragax said:
I'm using a friction polish for now. Will have to work up to CA.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with using friction polish. I never got away from it. Tried CA and stopped for several reasons. You'll know what to do.
There are a a lot of nice woods available. Experiment. Test fit the brass before gluing. Wood does not drill out as clean as acrylic. I inserted tubes with glue go half way in and stop. They in are in the scrap bin.
Click to expand...

Ill remember that,thanks.
 
Definitely test fit the tubes before gluing, but if you do get a stuck tube there are a couple of solutions to save the blank. The simplest one is just to soak it in acetone for a few days.

I'm a friction polish fan as well. I rarely use CA for a wood finish as I generally prefer a natural feel to the wood. If I were selling pens, I might have a different attitude, but this is just a hobby for me, so I only other person I have to please is my wife. :smile:
 
I like Maple and Brazilan Teak for inexpensive and easy to turn woods. Maple is availavble in huge boxes of pre-cut blanks very cheaply, and can easily be stained interesting colors.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom